What to Drink With What You Eat & Who Needs to Know

I was reading some entries from another site and pondering the whole idea of someone needing to know how to eat, how to drink, how to match it and why someone should tell anyone what they should do in that regard.

Before you get to thinking that I'm set to disregard guidebooks, that's not where I'm going. What I am reaching for is another direction.

Last night in a new restaurant in Austin, Texas with friends and clients, we were pondering the wine list. All Italian. The first wine I ordered was cooked. The next wine was fine. The following wine gave me such a terrible headache that I spent most of the night awake with a real pounder. It wasn’t from excess. Something was wrong in the winemaking. And something was more wrong in the wine buying.

I'm attuned, after some time, to look at wine from an enjoyment perspective. But deeper down there is an appreciation for a well-made wine. It can come from anywhere. But a thread of quality runs through those examples that reflect sound winemaking principles, healthy and sound wines. When wines age in warehouses or when distributors go out of business, wines that have languished in storage, especially if they aren’t of the highest quality or if they have been aged beyond their potential, can produce results that are less than optimal.

When a wine buyer offers to take these products into their restaurants or retail stores and represent them as sound examples of wine, it makes me wonder about the other products in the business. Are they buying eggs on close-out or mushrooms? How about pancetta or olive oil that have passed their expiration points? Maybe the bread isn’t as fresh on Sunday as it was on Friday? Or the shrimp smells a little too clean, like it has been passed over by a chlorine wash?

Maybe it's been a few too many days in contact with wine consultants who have gotten good press and believed it a little more than was good for them. And for their customers.

All this is written as a preface to a recent experience I had in Tuscany. There was no wine consultant who wrote the wine list, in fact the list was written in pencil, very simple and innocent. We were in the heart of meat country and the place specialized in sea food. And they did it very well. The restaurant in Castlenuovo Berardenga is Da Antonio. And it was a wonderful example of 1) What to eat with what you drink and 2) what to put on a wine list that works with the food.

Da Antonio - Castelnuovo Berardenga

8 courses
1st- crudo of shrimp and small lobster
2nd – salad of fresh mushrooms, gamberetti and arugula
3rd - puree of eggplant and filet of sole
4th – salad of artichoke julienne and octopus and gamberetti
5th - fried small fish ( like sardine) and tempura style white octopus
6th - pasta with garlic and parsley and julienne calamari ( flat pasta cut on diagonal, small)
7th – rombo (turbo) filet , fresh mushroom and grilled prawns
8th – crème brulee’ or tortino cioccolato
- café and grappa
Wine- white blend of Zibbibo, Ansonica and Cataratto from Sicily - Donnafugata Anthilia

A Sicilian wine in Tuscany? That's what I thought. The lady of the house recommended it over Vernaccia, Galestro, Vermentino. We were not disappointed.

Too bad the last few outings back in the New World haven't been as fortuitous.

Perhaps the book, What To Drink With What You Eat, needs to be read by the young consultants who are writing today's wine lists. Or perhaps they need to get back in touch with their client base, folks who dine and have disposable income. Smart folks who travel, people who know quality. That they might have disposable income doesn’t mean that they want to drink wines that should have been disposed of months, or years, ago.

Many of us already know what to drink with what we eat. We want honest wines, healthy wines, and sound wines. At fair prices. If you want us to come back, take heed. There are too many possibilities, too many choices, to waste time on "consultants" with worse taste than their already bad attitudes. We are not stupid. We will not come back. You don’t have us at "hello."

And our "disposable income" is not at your disposal.

Don't disappoint us.

Tags: Italy, wine, Travel, Tuscany, italian wine, , italian-wine, italian wine guy, wine guy, On the Wine Trail in Italy,What to drink with what you eat

Note to Restaurateurs: This is Still the Hospitality Business.

Special commentary by guest reviewer Antonino Caracciolo

Italian Wine Guy has asked me to write about the hospitality business, especially from the aspect of running a restaurant. I'll start with a hypothetical review:

"The basic problem underlying our evening here can be summed up as, "Angry chef". We had made a booking for four at 8:15 on Thursday evening some five days earlier, arrived a little early with our guests and were told, "Fifteen minutes before the table is free". Cutting a very long story short, we were eventually seated almost an hour and a bottle of wine later having been bypassed by quite a few later arrivals. No apologies from the young hostess, her much junior assistant or the somewhat self-important maitre d'. In fact we weren't actually seated; we saw a table for four being cleared and seated ourselves, not wishing to stand and drink for another hour."

"The wait staff were OK although when my wife requested the halibut, it was almost refused. For the main courses, my rabbit was somewhat overdone, the osso buco were apparently good, the halibut was somewhat dry and overcooked but it was the liver that made this meal memorable for all the wrong reasons. Our guest asked for it to be lightly cooked and pink - what arrived was very dark, overcooked and tough as boot leather. Our guest returned the dish and asked for it again, lightly cooked. Ten minutes later a waiter came and asked her to choose something else: she declined and insisted on the liver but was told that it was only cooked "one way" (our friend is a superb cook). She eventually declined to order another main course and went to the kitchen, quietly, to speak to the chef. He eventually came out of the kitchen and, when asked to cook the liver lightly, refused and fairly abusively told our friend that he refused to cook it any other way. If she didnt like it she could leave right now, and asked the waiter to prepare the check."

"Following this, once the main course was finished, we decided to leave. We did not leave a tip ( a first for us) and, quite simply, will never return to Da Asinello. We had eaten there several times over the past four to five years and enjoyed the food but this last evening is unfortunately the one that we will remember."

This could be a review from a very popular restaurant. These things happen. A place gets a great review, someone from Vanity Fair writes about it, Saveur lists it as one of the best restaurants in America, and faster than you can say "Bam", the place changes into an emotional obstacle course. And we're just talking dinner for four!

Some places just take it as it comes. Recently, Italian Wine Guy told me, when he was in Tuscany, and went into Da Antonio in Castelnuovo Berardenga, as he entered, the hostess asked him if he knew this was a strictly seafood restaurant. Quite an unlikely occurrence in meat heavy Tuscany. IWG said,"yes, that's why I came here." Ok, qualifying the client.

At which time they had an 8 course, all-from-the-sea, meal. At the end the chef came out and sat nearby with some friends. They laughed, enjoyed each others company, and celebrated friends, food and life. Imagine, a chef sitting down with old friends and enjoying their time at work with their diners!

In Italy this seems to be a natural occurrence, it happens often and daily. Why is it in the USA the restaurateur sometimes acts like a high priest, a Pharisee, handing down verdicts and edicts as if from some divinely designated place?

The kitchen isn't an altar, and if it is, why must we treat this new religion of dining with the age old habit of fear? Is this the purpose of the restaurateur, to turn their establishment into a palace of panic?

Sure, there is plenty of pressure in the kitchen. But diners don't come for that, they come to escape the outside world.

Restaurateurs, remember your profession is one of hospitality and conviviality. Today's diners have the option of many choices. Screw up and they'll drop you like a hot potato. No matter how popular you are today. It's a stove, not a shrine. The only miracle diners want is to be treated with civility and respect.

Like we learned from Momma.

In The Dark over Wine Tourism? Here's a Flashlight!

A site I recently came upon that might be interesting to the wine tourist, Great Wine Capitals . This is an informative portal for information about wine tourism. I have ranted, from time to time, about these matters. These folks are treating wine tourism with an organizational set-up that is informative, easy to navigate and filled with valuable information.

I particularly like the Best of Wine Tourism area. I quote from their site, " the Great Wine Capitals Global Network awarded seven international prizes to seven particularly distinctive wineries across the world. Each award-winning winery demonstrated exceptional capability to cater for, and welcome, visitors and tourists.
Prizes were awarded in the following "Best of…" categories: accommodation; architecture; arts and culture; meetings and events; leisure & tourist attractions; parks and gardens; winery restaurants; special wineries tourism. The contest attracted many entrants, all of them situated in the heart of world-famous wine regions of the Great Wine Capitals."

Check it out! We can cry out in the darkness and wail about the lack of entree into the wine world , but when a site like this shows up, it's a light in the tunnel.
Bravo, a good step forward, a giant step for wine-kind!

Another Monday @ the Office

Another busy Monday at the office

I dont want you all to think it's all fun and games and steaming bowls of cafe-latte.
I set to taste through 40 or so wines with journalist and Master of Wine candidate, Rebecca Murphy. Today was a pretty good day. For one, we only had one corked wine. Not bad for this many wines. I will list the wines at the end of the post for anyone who is so interested.

These were wines sent up from the warehouse so that they might be considered for some mention in newspapers and other printed and electric wine news.
Afterwards I went back home to the Bat-Cave in the '56 Bel Air. This might have looked like fun, but it was WORK! (i.e., the wine tasting; the drive home was loads of fun!)

 BUBBLY
 CHARLES DE FERE CUVEE
 CHARLES DE FERE RESERVE
 CHARLES DE FRERE DRY ROSE
 MONT-MARCAL BRUT ROSE NV
 TALTARNI BRUT TACHE VS
 GRUET BRUT ROSE
 WHITE - MISC
 ABBAZIA DI NOVACELLA - KERNER 05
 ITZAS MENDI – TZAKOLINA 2005
 SAUV BLANC
 LOS CARDOS ‘DONA PAULA’ SAUV BLANC 2006
 SOUTHERN RIGHT SB WALKER BAY (SOUTH AFRICA) 2006
 PASCAL JOLIVET ATTITUDE SB 2004
 CHARDONNAY
 VINCENT BOURGOGNE BLANC 2005
 STE GENEVIEVE PEREGRINE HILL CHARDONNAY (TEXAS) 2005
 HAMILTON RUSSELL CHARD WALKER BAY (SOUTH AFRICA) 2005
 ROSE’
 LOS CARDOS MALBEC/ROSE 2006
 RED WINE
 2005 BEAUJOLAIS
 CLAUDE GEOFFRAY –CHATEAU THIVINS – COTE DE BROUILLY 2005
 GEORGES DUBOEUF JULIENAS 2005
 GEORGES DUBOEUF CHATEAU DES CAPITANS JULIENAS 2005
 GEORGES DUBOEUF MOULIN A VENT FLOWER 2005
 GEORGES DUBOEUF MORGON DOMAINE MONT CHAVY 2005
 GEORGES DUBOEUF MORGON JEAN DESCOMBES 2005
 RED – SPAIN
 ARENA LOCA UTIEL-REQUENA 2004 TEMPRANILLO/CAB/ETC
 CACERES RIOJA RESERVA 2000
 RED- PORTUGAL
 TINTA DA PARROTES ALENQUER DOC 2001
 TINTO DA ANFORA ALENTEJANO VR TINTO 2001
 RED- FRANCE
 LA VIEILLE FERME RED 2004
 PAUL JABOULET CDR ROUGE PARALLELE 45 2003
 PAUL JABOULET CROZES HERMITAGE “LES JALETS” 2001
 RED - ITALY
 SANTI VALPOLICELLA “SOLANE” RIPASSO 2001 (CLASSICO SUPERIORE)
 SARTORI VALPOLICELLA “MONTEGRADELLA” 2003 (CLASSICO SUPERIORE)
 BANFI COLLEPINO SANGIOVESE/MERLOT TOSCANA 2005
 FEUDO MONACI SALICE SALENTINO 2003 (DOC)
 CANTELE PRIMITIVO (SALENTO IGT) 2004
 SPORTOLETTI ASSISI ROSSO DOC 2005
 VAL DELLE ROSE MORELLINO DI SCANSANO DOC 2003
 GIACOSA BARBERA D'ALBA 2004
 NEW WORLD PINOT NOIR
 STE GENEVIEVE PEREGRINE HILL PINOT NOIR (TEXAS) 2005
 CONO SUR PINOT NOIR RAPEL VALLEY CHILE 2006
 MALBEC
 LOS CARDOS MALBEC MENDOZA 2005
 MERLOT ( NEW WORLD)
 CLOS DU VAL MERLOT NAPA 2003
 SAGELANDS MERLOT COLUMBIA VALLEY 2003
 CAB MERLOT BLENDS ( SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE)
 NEIL ELLIS CAB SAUV/ MERLOT STELLENBOSCH 2003
 TALTARNI 3 MONKS CABERNET/MERLOT VICTORIA 2001
 CABERNET SAUVIGNON (NEW WORLD)
 TERRAZAS CAB SAUV MENDOZA 2004
 SEBASTIANI CAB SAUV SONOMA 2004
 CLOS DU VAL CAB NAPA 2003
 SAGELANDS CAB SAUV COLUMBIA VALLEY 2002

Family, Friends & a Fiasco

Tonight, over a wonderful bottle of Tua Rita Rosso dei Notri, once again I was transported to somewhere between the Maremma and California. These places are twinned in their sunny disposition, their proximity to water and to a feeling of freedom and for me, nostalgia.

Today we were talking about what one would do if someone told you that from this moment you only had 10 years to go. What would you do, would you still work? Where would you go?

I don’t think I’d travel too much. And I don’t think I’d stop working. I know probably the first thing I’d do would be to give away a lot of stuff. Maybe spend 6 months to a year doing that. Aint that silly?

I’d spend time with family and with friends. And I’d like to get this Tuscany-Sangiovese-Chianti thing figured out. Not all the wines taste as clear as the Tua Rita. Sometimes Chianti and Sangiovese are really a fiasco.

When you think about all the wine producing areas in the world and then take out all the areas or wineries that produce only marginally acceptable wines, there really exist only a few special places on earth. So when I taste Chianti wines that taste like they were made in a factory I wonder about the people behind it.

I think about the folks in Texas or Mexico and what they wouldn’t give to have some of the growing and soil conditions that we have all around Tuscany.

When I was a little one, my dad bought a Packard. He was moving up in the world. I think the last car he had was an Oldsmobile. After the Packard he’d bring home an Eldorado. But that Packard was the beginning of a step up. He wasn’t going to drive a cheapo chianti-mobile anymore.

When I was in college and we didn’t have much money, we’d get one of our friends to bring home wine from their family winery. Sometimes it was Sebastiani and sometimes it was Heitz. We were barely escaping a war that had gone amuck, anything tasted good then. Poor and free, looking on it now, we were very fortunate.
A little Zinfandel, maybe something from the nearby Santa Cruz Mountains. Or a Petite Sirah from Livermore?

Someone came up to me in a wine store the other day, wanting to know what was the best Chianti in wicker. I directed the person to a little corner of my mind, where there is a little wine cellar and a cellarmaster by the name of Rod Serling. One person’s nostalgia is another person’s nightmare.

Heading back from the 1950’s and 1970’s with a little pit-stop in the 1980’s, I recall a wonderful Chianti Rufina from Selvapiana. It was a Riserva from 1977. Black cherry and roasted chestnuts. Velvet armchair. Beeswax on an antique sideboard.

Now furniture companies find it advantageous to market their lines with such angles as the “Hills of Tuscany Collection.”

Sitting in the back yard of an ancient Tuscan estate, I ponder on this Sunday night why we cannot arm ourselves in the wine world to collectively strive to succeed together to make the wines of Tuscany more understood.

It doesn’t have to be that people think of the lowly fiasco, the 2-buck chuck of its time, as the archetypical Tuscan expression of red wine. It doesn’t have to be that way, On the Wine Trail in Italy.

Tags: Italy, wine, Travel, chianti, sangiovese, Tuscany, italian wine, Red Wine, italian-wine, italian wine guy, wine guy, On the Wine Trail in Italy,california,Santa Clara University

T.G.I.F.C.J.S. ~ Thank God it’s French Colombard Jalapeno Shooters

Over near Blanco Texas, harvest is long over. The hill country fields are sunburnt and ready for cool. Today it reached almost 90F ….It is November!

So a quick run over to Dry Comal Creek Winery for a French Colombard & Jalapeno Shooter ( I know, the bottle says Sauvignon Blanc, that was wine #2, waiting for us to cool down). Hot and cold at the same time. Worth a try. Wine~Texas style. It isn’t Tuscany, but it is a short break.

The big room at the winery had the fan on, the Big Ass Fan. Real cool.

Out to the open air criadera where the sherry like wine is developing.

Unfortunately the Long horn steer didn’t make it. This is tough country.

The Cask of Amontillado.

Double-wide country style cooling tank?

Ancestral impressions and Renaissance rescues

We had an appointment with the Bonacossi family at 11:00 am at Capezzana. Our day started early, so as not to be late. We weren’t biking through Tuscany on this one, for it took us from where we were staying near Castelnuovo Berardenga to the other side of Firenze towards Pistoia. If we didn’t bottleneck around Firenze all would be well. 40 years earlier folks in these parts were battling a swollen Arno, in some of the worst flooding to ever hit Italy. It was Italy’s Cultural Revolution. Students came from all over the world to help reclaim damaged or lost works of art. Mud Angels . Historic times. This was a different crisis from the time of Dante and his Beatrice.

On approach to Capezzana something was reminding me of this place. There’s something about the way the light bounces off the Montalbano hills. Is it the memory of an autumn spent there in 1977? Or a summer on the Greek Island of Paros? Was it some memory from a recessed gene that held an ancestors impression from a day working in the fields? Or perhaps painting? It was something, for when I arrived at the Capezzana estate it was like going home. Deep in the past there are some references to Tuscan ancestors, from the Etruscan era. In any event, the day I spent with the Bonacossi family, Beatrice and her father Ugo, was vaguely familiar. And reassuring, not only on in regards to the business of wine, but also on a philosophical level, something deeper. Some of my favorite wines comes from this estate. Do you ever have a taste that when it hits your palate, it’s like a seamless experience? Sangiovese, Carmignano, Cabernet, darn! This place nailed my palate preferences. Bull’s-eye, I am totally nuts about these wines! So what is it? Is it the Cabernet? Is it the Sangiovese? Is it the soil? The light? It's the mystery of something so familiar that it seems always to be a revelation. Imagine the thrill of a first love, day upon day. Something so familiar that it's never the same but always recognizable.

The Count, Ugo, is a person who has seen something of the world. He has a look of a person who has been told a great secret and his joy is to prepare the sauce in which to put it. He seems to be a person who really likes what has become of his life. When asked if, when he was young, he knew he was going to run the winery, his answer was no. Like a lot of young men and women, he wanted to step away from the large tree that was his father, and move into the sun. And he did. There was some engineering to be done in his life, human and otherwise. To be fair, I only met him that one time. And Beatrice, really once or twice in a meeting, at Vinitaly, that sort of encounter. So my interaction was with father and daughter, albeit on a very limited and basic level. Thank God the wine can be approached over years and one can begin to get an idea of what these folks have to work with. Christopher Kimball, of Cook's Illustrated put it so well, when he said that it was better to be needed than it was to need things. This land needed people. These people were needed. The wines? They day we were there, we tasted five wines, the Barco Reale 2004, Carmignano 2004, Carmignano 1985, Trefiano 2000 and Vin Santo 99. The 1985 was a gift. My colleague produced a key in the form of a question; “Does Carmignano age well?” Beatrice disappeared with a nephew and returned with the wine. My notes only have three words, “A Perfect wine.”

Years ago a buddy of mine, now a Master Sommelier, and I went to Italy. My friend, Guy Noel, fell in love with Carmignano from Capezzana. In fact the wine led him to love. For him, memories of the wine remain long after the flame of love burned out. Up in the VinSanteria mats were lovingly placed for the grapes to dry. One of the most traditional methods of making of the holy wine. Drier in style than some, able to age for decades. One of the great sipping wines of Italy. We tried the 1999 that day, I managed six words this time, “rich, unctuous, spicy, almost Orient-al, lovely”. Whatever that meant. I am missing that wine right now.

“She was the oriental In Italy-her eyes told the story – shutters closed tightly against the northern winds, lips that concealed nothing, nothing but burning desire, unfulfilled passion. Her face was pushing out from within, trying to escape the bonds of her predicament.”

Words written years ago. Gone is the black rooster. Gone are the candles.

All that remains is to unlock the door and head back down into the cellar for more Carmignano. Grazie signore Ugo, grazie Beatrice. more on the Mud Angels: https://youtu.be/uBw67R-Wl3I

more about the flood of 1966 : https://www.historytoday.com/history-matters/florence%E2%80%99s-mud-angels

The estate: Capezzana

Sunday meals in old California

It was 50 years ago, in 1956. Back to that primordial grape arbor in my grandparents backyard. The brick barbeque, the site of family gatherings, Sunday meals in old California. The Los Angeles Times recently did a story on old time California barbeque.


Sunday in the San Gabriel Valley of my childhood seems like someone else’s lifetime. The old Mission, with the bells, and the ancient pueblo church, hardly earthquake proof. I remember a tremor one Sunday, plaster fell from the walls. Not too long after they built a new church and closed the old one for services. In the garden there was one of the oldest grapevines I have ever seen. Planted in the 1860’s, still sending out shoots and covering a whole patio the size of a basketball court. A wonderful place to walk as a child. Many times I would return to this old courtyard, during times of inner foment. Seems like the old grapevine was always there for me, had heard it all. My confessor, the vine.

My dad and his friend Mario would camp in the hills above the valley. They’d cook over an open fire, real slow food. His friend Mario would go on to open an Italian restaurant in Texas. It was a simpler time, the calm before the storm. Mario was captured during a major battle in Europe. He lost half his body weight before the war ended and he was freed. He turned 90 recently.
Pop would be part of the early detection system on the Pacific. He patrolled Catalina Island. He had it easier. He didn’t make it to his 70th year.

When I look back at the pictures of these young and hopeful New Americans, I see endless hope and promise.
These were hard working people, not afraid to work 6 days a week. But they always took their Sundays to be with their family.

Today I went to a friends wine shop. Salesmen from the various companies, in a frenzy to ship their products, had made a mess of the wine set. A colleague and I worked to re-adjust the selection so that all the products would be shown in their best light. It's what I call my “rising tide lifts all boats” theory of setting a store. We spent the day there.

Saturday, I spent 5 hours in the shop, talking to people about their latest trips to Italy. One family just spent 25 days in Tuscany with a little time in the Cinqueterre and Rome. Another couple spent time in Umbria; Todi, Perugia, and Assisi. Folks looking to re-connect with something they felt in Italy.

My family had the great fortune to happen upon California when it was most like Italy. Memories of that are all that remain, for me. My California fell off the map some time ago.

But, I’ll always have Italy.


Tags:
california,california barbeque,Old California,Sunday meals, Italy, wine, Travel, italian wine guy, wine guy, On the Wine Trail in Italy,
Italian Wine Guy ®

Want to Visit a Winery in Tuscany? Plan Ahead

I have just finished getting what I hope is the last of this kind of e-mails that I don’t want to get anymore. They went like this:

Dear Italian Wine Guy,
Thanks for setting us up at Castello di Greatness. Unfortunately we got delayed (read: saw the Prada outlet and just had to stop for an hour or two), and never made it. But I’m sure it would have been a great visit. I never realized that Piedmont was so far away from Tuscany. Anyway, thanks. We’ll look the wine up back in the states, and order it the next time we see it on a wine list.
Regards,
Joe (the Ugly American) Consumer

A few hours later I got an e-mail from the winery:

Dear Italian Wine Guy,
Where are the people you asked us to give a tour and tasting for? We drove in from Milano, especially for this appointment, as we don’t live at the winery. We brought our mother with us to cook lunch. She made noodles for the afternoon meal. Are they not coming?
Please don’t ask us to entertain people for you if they don’t show up. Especially during the harvest.
Regards,
Giuseppe (the Angry Italian) Winemaker

In my work, people often ask me to set them up to visit a winery. Sometimes, all they want is a tasting, and that’s fine. But some folks think we are travel agencies that have a plethora of what would be free food and wine and rooms at winery castles and estates. At their disposal. At a moment’s notice.

One fellow begged, at the last minute, for a place to stay in Tuscany. He was finishing a picture book on the region and needed to immerse himself in the wine country. He had left his cell phone at home, taken his blackberry for e-mail (note to last-minute guy: Blackberry’s have a phone function, and you can also buy neat, inexpensive cell phones that work in Europe), but didn’t check his e-mail often. When he did, he was slow to respond, if at all. He showed up late (3 days), stayed at the place (gratis), never asked to see the underground cellars (impressive), and then, as an act of (last minute, what else?) “kindness,” gave the estate owner a dog-eared copy of a book he’d done on the wines of Tasmania. Or the Okanagan. I don’t know if he ever took pictures there, for I never got a follow-up call from him. Or a thank-you. Nor did the winery owner.

Another group, right around the end of the high season, asked me to get them into a winery. Only, they didn’t show up for the first place (layover in Paris was delayed), and when they got to the second place, they didn’t stay the whole time. They abandoned the rooms that were “set aside” for them. Rooms that could have been used for other folks. I got a call on that one, too.

So what do you do if you are really a bonafide wine tourist, but want to get an insight into the workings of the Italian wine process? There are many wineries in Italy that have tour times. Castello di Gabbiano in Greve is a good example. They also have a good restaurant on site and wonderful accommodations in their newly restructured, 12th century castle.

Borgo Scopeto in Castelnuovo Berardenga also has an upper-end Relais, suites, tastefully done, and a wonderful restaurant on-site and a pool. This is a newer estate, dating from the 13th century. They can also arrange a visit down the hill to the winery.

Nearby, Borgo Monastero has a renovated 8th century monstery complete with underground wine cellars and a daily wine-tasting. The rates are very reasonable, and the rooms have their own kitchens in case you want to try your own hand at La Cucina Toscana. Their winery is also nearby.

Many towns in Tuscany, have places where the collective wine output is gathered. A fascinating example is in Greve, Le Cantine di Greve in Chianti. This place is wonderful in that you can put down 10 or 20 euros and they give you a card, charged, and you can go from wine to wine and taste some or many of the examples. They have wines from all over Tuscany, and olive oils, too. Their museum of wine is interesting to the novice or connoisseur alike.

The Enoteca Italiana in Siena is a great place to look at wines from all over Italy. It is not just a regional wine showplace, it is the National Wine Chapel.

Villa Nottola in Montepulciano is a complete wine experience. Wine tasting, restaurant, lodging, large groups, small groups.

Castello Banfi in Montalcino has it down to an art form. The founders, John and Pam Mariani really get it. They understand hospitality and American interest in all-things-wine. A fabulous tour (3 weeks in advance please- plan ahead) , a glass museum that is not to be missed and a great dining place, the Taverna. The Italians I saw there on my last stop were loving the wine shop and the restaurants. Not just for American tourists. The Italians were digging on it big time. For a virtual peek, go here.

So there are ways to get an inside look. It just takes a little advance planning. The Italians look upon this as hospitality, and anyone who knows the Italians know hospitality is a sacred thing.

When someone doesn’t show up for a visit, that person breaks the sacred link. Wine-touring is about friends and family, warmth and the hearth. It’s a way to get a glimpse of modern people in the age-old cycle of the harvest and the bounty of the earth. It’s a way to experience a way of living we seldom see. A time when time was slower and people were more thoughtful. That is something our wine-tourists can use a little of; to show consideration for the process and the feelings of the people, whose lives they are about to descend upon.After all, you are in their home.



A little light reading on the subject?
Too Much Tuscan Sun by Dario Castagno with Robert Rodi

Tags: Italy, wine, Travel, chianti, sangiovese, Tuscany, italian wine, Red Wine, italian-wine, italian wine guy, wine guy, On the Wine Trail in Italy

...a Universe of Joy

"Death lies on her like an untimely frost
Upon the sweetest flower of all the field."

I was a little swayed on this post. It’s a special couple of days in Italy. All Saints Day, followed by All Souls Day. Last night I had a dream about my dear, dear wife, who passed away almost 6 years ago. I don’t know why she came to me in this dream, but I am grateful for the contact.

She wasn’t a involved in the wine world, but she loved wine. Whenever we would go to Italy and stay in the vineyards, the Italians would love her. She was a bright star in my world.

Once, at Castello di Monsanto in Tuscany, we spent a few days there in the guest house. The Bianchi family was warm and ever so gracious in their hospitality. It was a wonderful slice of watermelon-time.

In October, I ventured back to the estate, once again to have a meal and to visit the winery. Laura Bianchi and her father, Fabrizio, hosted my visit. The winery has grown as has the Bianchi family. But that is something one can read about in many places.

In four places on this recent trip I felt a presence. Actually, in five. I’ll talk about the fifth first. I was on my way from Montalcino to Montechiello and planned a stop in Pienza. Having only seen the hill-top village by fast moving bus and from a distance, somewhere in the distant past, this little town took on mythic proportions.

Iris and David’s blog, We’re Just Sayin’ threw a few logs on the fire. And Zeffirelli did too, so very long ago. I guess you had to be there.

My dear-one-who-now-has-passed-away, likes to remind me, from time to time, that matter changes form, but cannot be created or destroyed. I love her scientific side now. Anyway, she zinged me in Pienza, a couple of times. Out of the blue, she appeared, made eye contact, and around a cosmic corner she retreated, as if to say, “I’m kind of busy now, but just checking in with you. You OK? Good, gotta go now, love you, bye.”

Parting is such sweet sorrow.

Some of you might be thinking that I am downright disrespectful of the departed. Too bad. Deal with it. Were you there? Did you die? As far as I am concerned, she can appear all she wants to. It’s OK with me. I know the pain she had, the pain we shared. I’m working my way through the tunnel and she’s stardust riding on a moonbeam. Pienza, who would have thought? And I kept wondering why this place, another hill-top town, kept calling me. Thanks, Great Spirit!

Where were we? The other four places I felt a presence? It’ll have to wait for the next time. It’s another kind of presence anyway. But a presence, on the wine trail in Italy, that is worth telling about. Next time.

For now, a glass of Vin Santo, a bowed head. An enduring sadness surrounded by a universe of joy.