tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-202833102024-03-18T05:38:53.362-05:00On the Wine Trail in ItalyItalian
Wine
BlogAlfonso Cevolahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16983431475848714789noreply@blogger.comBlogger1714125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20283310.post-34837631547955153832024-03-17T10:07:00.014-05:002024-03-18T05:38:19.864-05:00The New Gatekeepers<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV443kii0v10A8fOBrtZUrvD6b37EZYYqli3aGJRUAyp9ol30Cq-vFIsfAZ3bEShz597x7MqMbiFgRLwXSrzaKptdD0UtAB-YWyDLj72mPT5x9JcX5YQroZ8RyVZ-gqvrFGDMGxLGByYGIXGzui81O9UskZAM6Do20UNBn1KLUnRp_auqe9mYf/s4880/P1170724%20copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4880" data-original-width="3278" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV443kii0v10A8fOBrtZUrvD6b37EZYYqli3aGJRUAyp9ol30Cq-vFIsfAZ3bEShz597x7MqMbiFgRLwXSrzaKptdD0UtAB-YWyDLj72mPT5x9JcX5YQroZ8RyVZ-gqvrFGDMGxLGByYGIXGzui81O9UskZAM6Do20UNBn1KLUnRp_auqe9mYf/w269-h400/P1170724%20copy.jpg" width="269" /></a></div><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 26pt; line-height: 107%;">T</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 18pt; line-height: 107%;">his past week, it was raining hard,
and I needed to walk my new knee. So I went to the local mall, NorthPark Center, which
is enclosed and dry and has a lot of great art and stores. It also has Eataly,
an Italian emporium, a dozen places to get espresso, clean bathrooms, and some
nice shops. I am into watches, so I like to look at the new offerings as I perambulate
my way towards new-knee health. But recently I’ve tracked a trend in retail,
which I have been sensing also happens in the world of wine – the new gatekeepers.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 18pt; line-height: 107%;">Three incidents happened, almost at the same time. <span></span></span></p><a name='more'></a><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 18pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 18pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr03tKEmBKpzB9T-TLwcauKtki0THpHy9YiPxSu1hr3nU-UQJ3pkPkfHsC-JI4-hyBEPoI2nYnNpZhyphenhyphenFuKDtwelwVxZut14fRAXX9uYdB8CjGsgJ7WkJOVcSBreEXZVAPl6ARb-hOH7x_fQH2Km-IeELk02Ou4jkaE8uGYxEUSa34fM9xPVZ8z/s5256/P1180760%20copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3528" data-original-width="5256" height="269" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr03tKEmBKpzB9T-TLwcauKtki0THpHy9YiPxSu1hr3nU-UQJ3pkPkfHsC-JI4-hyBEPoI2nYnNpZhyphenhyphenFuKDtwelwVxZut14fRAXX9uYdB8CjGsgJ7WkJOVcSBreEXZVAPl6ARb-hOH7x_fQH2Km-IeELk02Ou4jkaE8uGYxEUSa34fM9xPVZ8z/w400-h269/P1180760%20copy.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 18pt; line-height: 107%;"><br />This first one was in a watch shop. I’d avoided going
into this shop, which arguably sells some of the most popular and iconic
timepieces known to humankind. The company is extremely wealthy from the sale
of their luxury watches, and <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>they have a
foundation that donates millions and millions of dollars, yearly, to hospitals
and other worthwhile concerns. They do good work. And their watches are flawless.
They are also impossible to buy in their worldwide boutiques. But they have
exhibition watches to try on and supposedly they have a waiting list if one hoped
to buy one of their watches in the future. If not, there is a lively secondary
market. And one will pay a 10-30% premium for the privilege of expediency. It
is an odd setup. But world demand for these watches is off the charts. </span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 18pt; line-height: 107%;">Anyway, I waited behind a rope until the rent-a-cop
gave me the OK to go in. I approached the table where the clerk was. We exchanged
greetings and I explained to him that I had walked by this place probably
hundreds of times but never gone in. “This is my first time in.” I got a “so
what?” kind of look. I then told him a friend of mine was a big fan of these watches
and I had noticed a watch on him that I liked, a Submariner. The clerk replied,
“We don’t have any in stock, these are just exhibition pieces.” Not a, “Would
you like to try our exhibition piece on your wrist and see how one might look?”
No, nothing.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 18pt; line-height: 107%;">As the visit spiraled into what I considered an embarrassing
and humiliating experience (one of the reasons why I never walked in the place
until now) I realized this clerk was a gatekeeper, not a ferryman. He was not inclined
to put my name on a list, just in case one of those watches showed up in the next
few years. </span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 18pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 18pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwP4SYWE1OcRqRm62ANQ7dqzr3DiaqHZR6plf87NFTBUgZxFXNh2NiNEBkaPDkR5WpaMVNI0CUZu-U69qMFgoU8ZhQW5akN_HXlgR_BnS4aQI6qxiL7jxgoQabs2paY47lqobze5JFc1IMj-qfrGKRWTFBddR2S4GJiYEHE5Oh7KcTyIOkG4ON/s320/P1140444.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="320" data-original-width="320" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwP4SYWE1OcRqRm62ANQ7dqzr3DiaqHZR6plf87NFTBUgZxFXNh2NiNEBkaPDkR5WpaMVNI0CUZu-U69qMFgoU8ZhQW5akN_HXlgR_BnS4aQI6qxiL7jxgoQabs2paY47lqobze5JFc1IMj-qfrGKRWTFBddR2S4GJiYEHE5Oh7KcTyIOkG4ON/s1600/P1140444.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 18pt; line-height: 107%;"><br />I was dressed well (Calvin Klein, Lagerfeld, etc.) and I had a nice
titanium timepiece on my wrist (<a href="https://horography.blogspot.com/2022/04/how-first-watch-turned-out-to-be-my.html" target="_blank">Bulgari Octo Finissimo</a>) which should have signaled
to the clerk that I was a serious watch person. We’re not talking about some
backwater town in Mudville. This is a metropolis of over 8 million people! No
matter, I could have been invisible for all it was worth. </span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 18pt; line-height: 107%;">So, I skulked out of there, wondering why the hell did
I go in there in the first place? It was exactly as I had feared it would be – excruciatingly
humiliating – all because a clerk decided to play gatekeeper instead of
experience unfolder.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 18pt; line-height: 107%;">A few days earlier we were in the same mall and there
was a new restaurant that had just opened. It was 3:45PM and they were having a
happy hour. I went up to the front desk and a bevy of young, well-dressed women
were waiting to receive us. First they asked if I had a reservation. At 3:45 PM
on a weekday? No. Then they asked my name, my phone number, my email. I asked
them if this was necessary, we just wanted to try the place out. </span></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMJZktfkTDaXMWJ-NlSnn4iW7keH-ZxG4Oe2fVG6ouQ9DX_jQKNigATH5ipV_yWwxrvedYNrTdjsBjl8nW1MZHfOhnim_RtzJ4YcSXOupe-Gi2ACkQ0kVfcnekBxR9ceiEwPYhSUyXxU9r1dzmOFyJFl90deLViKT-k08dGkpARRMJ701_gtjy/s3085/P1170860.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3085" data-original-width="2075" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMJZktfkTDaXMWJ-NlSnn4iW7keH-ZxG4Oe2fVG6ouQ9DX_jQKNigATH5ipV_yWwxrvedYNrTdjsBjl8nW1MZHfOhnim_RtzJ4YcSXOupe-Gi2ACkQ0kVfcnekBxR9ceiEwPYhSUyXxU9r1dzmOFyJFl90deLViKT-k08dGkpARRMJ701_gtjy/w269-h400/P1170860.jpg" width="269" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 18pt; line-height: 107%;">They told us
to wait, and they’d get to us soon. Mind you, the place was maybe ¼ full. I was
getting ready to walk off and leave, when finally, someone said, “Your table is
ready.” So, off we went, reluctantly at that point. Look, the table was never
not ready. It was just a bullshit power play these folks were profligating on the
old folks. Again, gatekeepers, not experience unravelers. I will think again
before going back.</span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 18pt; line-height: 107%;">We have a nice Italian food and wine emporium in the
mall, and we like to buy food, eat and walk around and see the new products. I decided
to walk into the wine department and ask about a wine I once saw there. I
spotted a gent who I had noticed in there a bit, he seemed to know the lay of
the land. So, I asked him if he had the Erbaluce di Caluso in stock. “What is
the varietal,” he asked. “<a href="https://acevola.blogspot.com/2019/03/erbaluce-where-have-you-been-all-my-life.html" target="_blank">Erbaluce</a>,” I responded. “From Piedmont, the Alta Langa.”
I could have been speaking Klingon.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9qyl0UAzpdx5VsZ2b6RpzXaqx6Ua5IZfn2ZhtbuYnuWyNBKS7iUfgxNzmUGoxq2SHAs1zCAxp_He1gTCh-Jdpvmc42_lx-89yL4DMPA38KC-RippFCnBvQc5k-U0bgngp18GhMeaq9J1UxxK460rokPXIFXprIbmxAI0RL60wub0uIObBIZuT/s2000/SAM_4052copy.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1336" data-original-width="2000" height="268" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9qyl0UAzpdx5VsZ2b6RpzXaqx6Ua5IZfn2ZhtbuYnuWyNBKS7iUfgxNzmUGoxq2SHAs1zCAxp_He1gTCh-Jdpvmc42_lx-89yL4DMPA38KC-RippFCnBvQc5k-U0bgngp18GhMeaq9J1UxxK460rokPXIFXprIbmxAI0RL60wub0uIObBIZuT/w400-h268/SAM_4052copy.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: small; line-height: 107%;"><i>A small display of Erbaluce producers</i></span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 18pt; line-height: 107%;">“We have Gavi, Arneis, and other white wines from Piedmont,
on the other side we have Sauvignon Blanc, etc. from Northeast Italy.” Yes, we
have no Erbaluce. </span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 18pt; line-height: 107%;">I thanked him for his time and ambled off. I wasn’t looking
for Gavi. Or Arneis. Or Sauvignon Blanc. Another teachable moment lost. One
would think, in a place like that, specializing in Italian wine, that the clerk
would have been in the least curious? For God’s sake, they have a Trebbiano
from Abruzzo in their “reserve vault” for $1,000! Erbaluce is not out of their
league. Or is it?</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 18pt; line-height: 107%;">All this to signal a wariness that I am seeing in the
world and also in the wine world. And that is a growing cadre of gatekeepers,
trying to keep people from experiences rather than ferrying them over into new
territory. What, someone out there says? What about the young kids and the crusade
to put natural wines on the map?</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 18pt; line-height: 107%;">Funny you should ask.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 18pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 18pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyA0h58_2se7jDZ_V_ufDYFC75XpupI9aWfahHUwgQWHiwa_mYkT6Z8KlsqNOcCL9Q2mFLtViVXUvORifxfcg6eQtLnLw0hxF9CrMptShaVjDMpzBG378cf3mL05fNGy_lZT0nAyl9R97MgtCMIQqJBPGvDPANk2sNvCn5MjcxO1XeZF_q2DV-/s5274/P1180789%20copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3546" data-original-width="5274" height="269" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyA0h58_2se7jDZ_V_ufDYFC75XpupI9aWfahHUwgQWHiwa_mYkT6Z8KlsqNOcCL9Q2mFLtViVXUvORifxfcg6eQtLnLw0hxF9CrMptShaVjDMpzBG378cf3mL05fNGy_lZT0nAyl9R97MgtCMIQqJBPGvDPANk2sNvCn5MjcxO1XeZF_q2DV-/w400-h269/P1180789%20copy.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 18pt; line-height: 107%;"><br />I was reading a profile on a wine buyer in one of the
hot culinary spots in our city. He’s all over the natural wine scene. I mean,
you will not find anything in the restaurant, where he works, that you can find
in Total Wine, Kroger or the mainstream wine world. OK, that’s fine, he’s focused.
But when asked where he hangs out in his off hours, he mentioned a dive bar.
Now, I bet the back bar is loaded with mainstream, commercially popular products
like Tito’s and Crown Royal. So, why the double standard? Is it just posturing?
Or simply, more of the trendy curated gatekeeping that is pervading the service
industry?</span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 18pt; line-height: 107%;">Here's the thing – the folks we used to serve when I
was a sommelier and a server, that we called customers, are now called guests. But now the guests need to be
exposed to experiences that are curated by someone who is on a journey. It is
no longer service. It is “we will show you the way, you know nothing.” That is
what service looks like in 2024. Welcome to Huxleyville.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 18pt; line-height: 107%;">We need fewer gatekeepers
and more ferryman and women. Better listeners, not self-brand ambassadors. Devotees to service and study. </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 18pt; line-height: 107%;">Like the ferryman<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Vasudeva said in Siddhartha. <i>“The river has taught me to listen, from
it you will learn it as well. It knows everything, the river,
everything can be learned from it.”</i></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgre7T5rgV8ktHgH1tvOuFbZT4WsOVThZzRfhxmZQ8fNM6PR7xayeqAHVZDRvL_fZmyD6JdDQpACOt7XTLMn9gCgzda5gMs9QW3q6bfnX7wq7HgJ4RO-dTGENvGGm6lHgS-Prd9wWUxKVWVZ673XCf0WzP_3_pwUw2ObwkmUkaMuZ6S4IpV1DIw/s5150/P1180366%20copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3457" data-original-width="5150" height="269" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgre7T5rgV8ktHgH1tvOuFbZT4WsOVThZzRfhxmZQ8fNM6PR7xayeqAHVZDRvL_fZmyD6JdDQpACOt7XTLMn9gCgzda5gMs9QW3q6bfnX7wq7HgJ4RO-dTGENvGGm6lHgS-Prd9wWUxKVWVZ673XCf0WzP_3_pwUw2ObwkmUkaMuZ6S4IpV1DIw/w400-h269/P1180366%20copy.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 18pt; line-height: 107%;"><i> <br /></i></span><br /><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 18pt; line-height: 107%;"> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 18pt; line-height: 107%;"> </span></p><p>
<span style="font-size: small;">© written and photographed by <a href="http://www.blogger.com/profile/16983431475848714789">Alfonso Cevola</a></span><span style="font-size: small;"> limited rights reserved <a href="http://acevola.blogspot.com/">On the Wine Trail in Italy</a></span></p><p style="margin-left: 40px; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: small;"> </span><span style="font-size: small;"><span><i>if you wish to comment, comment here:</i><br /><a href="https://www.facebook.com/alfonso.cevola/">https://www.facebook.com/alfonso.cevola/</a><br /><a href="https://www.instagram.com/alfonso.cevola/">https://www.instagram.com/alfonso.cevola/</a></span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; line-height: 107%;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></span></p><p>
</p><div style="color: white;">
wine blog + Italian wine blog + Italy W</div>
Alfonso Cevolahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16983431475848714789noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20283310.post-50975266661689757822024-03-10T09:55:00.009-05:002024-03-11T07:29:15.431-05:00What does it take to be the #1 Italian wine expert in the world?<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0.25in;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 24pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 24pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl5z-5oN1VWh0FERB-Qy3THZOnYDV3Z8bZfZ1AM40hVKJHTrtwq2alckoEmrmyDaYMvZzP25OXX4bqsvCrkoxToC0Lx5YECaGSaF9xtTI-bHs0VXBJlFHQTpzRjq2mfbq2SWOTZD7DT778gOMfwTnanYK4Ve8fKvbl8WWfyvo8pdyTW4kZmydW/s625/dinner%203%20copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="413" data-original-width="625" height="264" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl5z-5oN1VWh0FERB-Qy3THZOnYDV3Z8bZfZ1AM40hVKJHTrtwq2alckoEmrmyDaYMvZzP25OXX4bqsvCrkoxToC0Lx5YECaGSaF9xtTI-bHs0VXBJlFHQTpzRjq2mfbq2SWOTZD7DT778gOMfwTnanYK4Ve8fKvbl8WWfyvo8pdyTW4kZmydW/w400-h264/dinner%203%20copy.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 24pt; line-height: 107%;">R</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">ecently,
I was introduced as an Italian wine expert. I bristled a little, and explained
that at this time I am an enthusiast, and maybe one time I had been a little
more involved in the day-to-day business of expertise, but that I have never
considered myself an expert. But it got me to thinking about proficiency, and specifically,
which person out there might be the #1 Italian wine expert in the world. A tall
order, for sure, and one which might be different for different people, in
different parts of the world.</span><p></p><p><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">For the sake of this speculative
exercise, though, I decided to erect a few hurdles. Here goes: <br /></span></p><a name='more'></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><span></span></span><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyCy-sKXfgvwUq2C5CvQRV9uj6-Je0Z8hihYVDKipwwOuRA239zizUflGKQspu9s5HD-UVT8Himku3-ZPJsnteNZPAPRwhGlxyp0sr0vgVdNN70bHBJXm0a4QDkCrnD_lvBEArEtUVsniuXLV1p1iT0fsRSe7umnyt4Uy__DBa6XifNCLs8PiP/s520/DSC_3597.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="520" data-original-width="520" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyCy-sKXfgvwUq2C5CvQRV9uj6-Je0Z8hihYVDKipwwOuRA239zizUflGKQspu9s5HD-UVT8Himku3-ZPJsnteNZPAPRwhGlxyp0sr0vgVdNN70bHBJXm0a4QDkCrnD_lvBEArEtUVsniuXLV1p1iT0fsRSe7umnyt4Uy__DBa6XifNCLs8PiP/s320/DSC_3597.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><span><!--more--></span><ul style="text-align: left;"><li class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0.25in;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">They should not have any
kind of affiliation with winery, importer, distributor, retailer or restaurant. <br /></span></li></ul>
<ul style="text-align: left;"><li class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0.25in;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">They should not have any
connection with any government or governmental agency, whether it be Italian,
American, Chinese or any other country. <br /></span></li></ul>
<ul style="text-align: left;"><li class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0.25in;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">They should be free of
any attachment to any kind of awards program, wine competition, ambassador
program, academy or marketing operations. <br /></span></li></ul>
<ul style="text-align: left;"><li class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0.25in;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">They should not have any
connection to any commercial concern that interacts with the Italian wine trade
– that would include public relations, ambassadorships, product endorser, paid influencer
positions or trade show affiliations. <br /></span></li></ul>
<ul style="text-align: left;"><li class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0.25in;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">They should not have any
connection to any road show that Italian wineries participate in, whether it be
gratis or pay-to-play. There should be a firewall between the expert and all
commercial and trade related enterprises which seek to promote the role of
Italian wines. <br /></span></li></ul>
<ul style="text-align: left;"><li class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0.25in;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">They should never take
free trips, junkets or participate in anything that might be seen as trying to
influence the expert from an outside source. <br /></span></li></ul>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0.25in;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb4xFxL4ysaqu2UE0TXBZNagLbvs9ZnqATfLTZlUuuWk-EFHIIHmw871wNV6fNMc2tWCitvJ_2T_Q2i3P4dPsowe3IaWm_eBVQWS84FULkom1x8y-yCcljsDd9nTF-tCoRpvtQS7Lc7Tv5NhD5X-gSwrhciCGUn1RhktpnIsCaa0z_6BLktCOl/s2848/DSC_3735.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2848" data-original-width="2848" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb4xFxL4ysaqu2UE0TXBZNagLbvs9ZnqATfLTZlUuuWk-EFHIIHmw871wNV6fNMc2tWCitvJ_2T_Q2i3P4dPsowe3IaWm_eBVQWS84FULkom1x8y-yCcljsDd9nTF-tCoRpvtQS7Lc7Tv5NhD5X-gSwrhciCGUn1RhktpnIsCaa0z_6BLktCOl/s320/DSC_3735.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><br />Ok, that’s the list of
don’ts. How about the list of dos? <br /></span><p></p>
<ul style="text-align: left;"><li class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0.25in;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">They should fully
understand the classic traditional wines of Italy, the appellations, the sub-zones, the MGA’s, the DOC/DOCG wines and laws. <br /></span></li></ul>
<ul style="text-align: left;"><li class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0.25in;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">They should also
understand the new and incoming wines and wine styles and be able to place them
in the larger context of Italian wine and what their place in that world is and
where it is going. <br /></span></li></ul>
<ul style="text-align: left;"><li class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0.25in;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">They should thoroughly
understand every region, be fully briefed on the types of grapes Italian wine
is made from as well as all the biotypes that exist and are being discovered in
real time. They should understand the difference between a clone and a biotype
and use the words correctly. Same goes for varieties and varietals.<br /></span></li></ul>
<ul style="text-align: left;"><li class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0.25in;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">While they might be
acquainted with various producers and importers of Italian wine, they should
maintain a professional distance from them so as to not send any message of
collusion, conflict of interest, or violation of anything of an ethical nature. <br /></span></li></ul>
<ul style="text-align: left;"><li class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0.25in;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">They can write about,
talk about, lecture on and even instruct others about Italian wine, so long as
it does not favor any one wine or winery, region or marketing collective. They
should share their knowledge and enthusiasm, by all means, but it should be
objective. <br /></span></li></ul>
<ul style="text-align: left;"><li class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0.25in;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">Rating wine when writing
about them? The 100-point scale has been bastardized by some “experts” to
enrich themselves personally, so I would look for someone who does not abuse
the 100-point scale. I understand why it had become accepted in today’s world,
but I would prefer them not to use it, if at all possible.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"> <br /></span></li></ul><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4cCkL2myoLzFJfumAm82n-nCZSPxkPCJ-hXvCkvEF6YVijxVpkTt5Fd1j4xmnGXxXeba4fMvlU_rXVMv9JeEaz9HrX3G7Qd4ARevyLVCSAtoss0Fej2kQSr2tcC568fMZGdiSaR73hSwY0p0ZLlFydjZy1-F7WqaSzahkhziS3IG8OxH6iGUo/s659/cart%20graphic%20pisa%20ariport.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="659" data-original-width="659" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4cCkL2myoLzFJfumAm82n-nCZSPxkPCJ-hXvCkvEF6YVijxVpkTt5Fd1j4xmnGXxXeba4fMvlU_rXVMv9JeEaz9HrX3G7Qd4ARevyLVCSAtoss0Fej2kQSr2tcC568fMZGdiSaR73hSwY0p0ZLlFydjZy1-F7WqaSzahkhziS3IG8OxH6iGUo/s320/cart%20graphic%20pisa%20ariport.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0.25in;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">So, where does that leave
us? I realize there are a lot of hurdles placed herein, but I think in order to
be the #1 Italian wine expert in the world, they must rise above the fray. Is
there anyone out there? One person comes pretty damn close. Another one might
have been, at one time, in the running. But they are running a larger concern
and that would take away from their overall momentum, and income generating.
Another one claims to be all things to Italian wine, but it comes with a price.
That person has benefited greatly in financial terms, but they also are
getting close to being seen as the George Santos of the Italian wine world. <br /></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0.25in;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">Don’t expect the Italian government
or any of their agencies to foster expertise at this level. There is still too
much corruption and the temptation for the money grab is just too great for
most people. I understand this, as the EU and Italy often throw so much money
around, it’s like going out into the back yard and pulling weeds after a week’s
long rain. Unfortunately, with those inclined, when they harness the power that
allows them to influence the direction of wine, it usually doesn’t end well for
them. Like I said, corruption in the highest levels of Italian wine, at the government
level, is part of the tradition of the institution. It’s a shame, but it exists
and is quite real.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0.25in;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">In a perfect world, this
person should be free of any pecuniary encumbrances, therefore able to go about
the business of expertise without any concerns for income generating
activities. Other than someone in academia, if they were independently wealthy,
that would be a plus. But we don’t live in a perfect world, do we? </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0.25in;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">So, who is out there? Are
they Italian? Are they American? Are they from China? Are they in England? Male?
Female? Gender fluid? I’d ask for comments, but this is more of a <i>“think on
it”</i> piece. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0.25in;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9bPO_7xnWRRG3XfA5ZnFCmcHVhsKsZ2JtC8QatKZZgrkx8EdJLVc9MnmlLEE-PFu4iPEgCH9EDHWc1DRR1REd-Rbxdvq_pxqyeXm-o9jUMSbLR30n9NCpr3PEs59exCeJQsIaQJOXEEnP1eaDTeTUZ2DaLrpWo3KAwewZwTxf8siXBS2Gdc-z/s2736/SAM_0326.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2736" data-original-width="2736" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9bPO_7xnWRRG3XfA5ZnFCmcHVhsKsZ2JtC8QatKZZgrkx8EdJLVc9MnmlLEE-PFu4iPEgCH9EDHWc1DRR1REd-Rbxdvq_pxqyeXm-o9jUMSbLR30n9NCpr3PEs59exCeJQsIaQJOXEEnP1eaDTeTUZ2DaLrpWo3KAwewZwTxf8siXBS2Gdc-z/s320/SAM_0326.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div><p><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">That’s what I’m going to
do, over a fresh bottle of Langhe Nebbiolo.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"> </span></p><p><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"> </span></p><p><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"> </span></p><p><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"> </span></p><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: small;">© written and photographed by <a href="http://www.blogger.com/profile/16983431475848714789">Alfonso Cevola</a></span><span style="font-size: small;"> limited rights reserved <a href="http://acevola.blogspot.com/">On the Wine Trail in Italy</a></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span><i>if you must comment, comment here:</i><br /><a href="https://www.facebook.com/alfonso.cevola/">https://www.facebook.com/alfonso.cevola/</a><br /><a href="https://www.instagram.com/alfonso.cevola/">https://www.instagram.com/alfonso.cevola/</a></span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; line-height: 107%;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0.25in;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"> </span></p>
<br />
<div style="color: white;">
wine blog + Italian wine blog + Italy W</div>
Alfonso Cevolahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16983431475848714789noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20283310.post-26012263062195977992024-03-03T11:21:00.002-06:002024-03-03T17:15:55.952-06:00Enrico Scavino - A Remembrance<p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf81EiF91kCFENrawikBNy7JCUjDhb049H-1M6dr-LpiTkhAROyeZKDX0obVrVyF8PYDR9qaja1e7BgHweP-SiMTqJTHH7IPzyRasI00iMbgUYPVKsJxRqy7r1t24UEF2mTxKQgbbejHbxAMB2LnMrB2pNqca71FE2QBjVB2jRGZEMo_yS1P75/s4898/AMC_3768.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3265" data-original-width="4898" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf81EiF91kCFENrawikBNy7JCUjDhb049H-1M6dr-LpiTkhAROyeZKDX0obVrVyF8PYDR9qaja1e7BgHweP-SiMTqJTHH7IPzyRasI00iMbgUYPVKsJxRqy7r1t24UEF2mTxKQgbbejHbxAMB2LnMrB2pNqca71FE2QBjVB2jRGZEMo_yS1P75/w400-h266/AMC_3768.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 24pt; line-height: 107%;">L</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">ast Monday, I received a note from a
friend in Italy. <i>“Enrico Scavino has crossed over into the Great Sea.”</i></span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">Our paths first crossed 40 years ago, in 1984. It was
my first business trip to Italy and I was with my friend and colleague Guy
Stout. We had a duo of Italian restaurateurs with us and our guide Barone
Armando de Rham, who represented Scavino to us in the U.S.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">We were coming from Vinitaly, which in those days was
a smallish (but growing) affair. Piedmont! It was so exciting to be going to
the Burgundy of Italy, which was what we were told. In those days, the Italian
wines and regions leaned on French equivalents, so the unknowing could find an
entry point. Now, not so necessary, as Italian wine has become a force in the
wine world. <span></span></span></p><a name='more'></a><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX18Kz1e1ejcEjtUJw3o7WnzAbJI5IRndOeW75COr06nVfbJSJkif_klmlgWKAnd9MBjmGOuxHWY6koGPliPcaDAgLWtYgHSB2VJ5b3xcy-w-QivxJ95DedM9lazHq5DR7uYI4hV6bC-qmIH-SU_MIQCp8ESUwAawQLhmb22h5KpLuO5ngqTVL/s2232/scavino%20winery%20with%20Rham%20Cevola%20Enrico%20Charles%20toto%20and%20one%20more.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2232" height="271" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX18Kz1e1ejcEjtUJw3o7WnzAbJI5IRndOeW75COr06nVfbJSJkif_klmlgWKAnd9MBjmGOuxHWY6koGPliPcaDAgLWtYgHSB2VJ5b3xcy-w-QivxJ95DedM9lazHq5DR7uYI4hV6bC-qmIH-SU_MIQCp8ESUwAawQLhmb22h5KpLuO5ngqTVL/w400-h271/scavino%20winery%20with%20Rham%20Cevola%20Enrico%20Charles%20toto%20and%20one%20more.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1984 a very young yours truly at far left, Armando <br />de Rham and Enrico Scavino - photo by Guy Stout<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: times; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">When we arrived to the winery and the sunny courtyard,
Enrico met and greeted us with his famous smile. We toured the winery. Something
about it was different than some of the others we had recently visited. There
was a large room solely designated for small barrels, barriques, they called
them. The barrels were French, and expensive, and some producers were experimenting
with ageing the Nebbiolo wine in them. It was just short of scandalous, at the
time. But, if used properly, the wines showed a vim and a vigor that some of
the neighboring wineries just didn’t quite come up to.</span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoznEGo541cI8aKQtPKdNKzqNbwAzwGdE8RPMeE1UThi1tD_ecCgyd0juQQVI8EV7UReynARIOQMgexG4MIqWYrrNj2lPm27AGBMfuUKfkfS_4vP6JnW0VnKv86eO9NMLcIEedj1xXdByKYZaADXYUhlHqe1abHUfn8782rEt91FJH1X7felLQ/s2311/father%20scavino.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: times;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1571" data-original-width="2311" height="272" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoznEGo541cI8aKQtPKdNKzqNbwAzwGdE8RPMeE1UThi1tD_ecCgyd0juQQVI8EV7UReynARIOQMgexG4MIqWYrrNj2lPm27AGBMfuUKfkfS_4vP6JnW0VnKv86eO9NMLcIEedj1xXdByKYZaADXYUhlHqe1abHUfn8782rEt91FJH1X7felLQ/w400-h272/father%20scavino.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Paolo Scavino<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: times; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">Enrico was a warm person, enthusiastic and youthful. His
daughters and wife and father were around as well. It was a family affair. His
father Paolo, was older then. Ha, I think about his age and laugh a little. It’s
not that far from where I am now. And for those young’uns reading this, if you
are lucky enough to get through the next 10 minutes, you might also be there,
sooner than you think.</span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsepzEacl7qu46TWypOqegSUbLusfvdAwDmYrQK6wbMx5IbgY0R-9o0D53dO2tPVjqNOq-Is1m0x8brRjtghFFaHJnrD0rpddYjK4TJ6oaZdUtuXJuZs8fbb4YNBwhmiymz1J4LE4DsbUXzTA29csgYyNbtSlDnp0sR51gg298UsheFGVS69gs/s1600/enrico%20scavino%20langhe%201984-5.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1167" data-original-width="1600" height="291" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsepzEacl7qu46TWypOqegSUbLusfvdAwDmYrQK6wbMx5IbgY0R-9o0D53dO2tPVjqNOq-Is1m0x8brRjtghFFaHJnrD0rpddYjK4TJ6oaZdUtuXJuZs8fbb4YNBwhmiymz1J4LE4DsbUXzTA29csgYyNbtSlDnp0sR51gg298UsheFGVS69gs/w400-h291/enrico%20scavino%20langhe%201984-5.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: times; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">We tasted through some barrels and then went into the
tasting room to sample some bottled wines, over some breadsticks and local cheeses,
which was fairly <i>de rigueur</i> in those days. The wines were stout and
young and strong and compelling to my young palate. We were told how much we
could expect for our market (Texas) and we reserved all that we could have. Guy
told me that the two restaurateurs would put the wine on the list, for sure,
and Guy had big plans for other places, both retail and restaurant, in his
territory, which was Houston. As for my territory, Dallas, which was a little staider
and conservative, I felt reasonably certain that some of the high-end hotels
and a few innovative Italian restaurants, like Alessio’s and Savino’s, would
also follow suit. And just like that, voilà, we were going to bring in the wines of Paolo Scavino to Texas. Another first!</span><span style="font-family: times; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir6CohzHdZOIf9H5-n3W8NAmUuJO_JYExq7stR-98Krm9If779tfy3ZMwFFKfwvQ_a8Xq9OHl6sKnXkqYc6Axk3dbhwdvX0yk3RaRJLBaGaq8k1KgtpXKKYHSC5QYE8529-WUny_BBvR56qwRR_sKAV1rzSsFmLUdOczRa87-fivfqnTs5y1Eq/s2250/enrico%20and%20enrica%20scavino%20and%20de%20Rham%201984.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1530" data-original-width="2250" height="272" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir6CohzHdZOIf9H5-n3W8NAmUuJO_JYExq7stR-98Krm9If779tfy3ZMwFFKfwvQ_a8Xq9OHl6sKnXkqYc6Axk3dbhwdvX0yk3RaRJLBaGaq8k1KgtpXKKYHSC5QYE8529-WUny_BBvR56qwRR_sKAV1rzSsFmLUdOczRa87-fivfqnTs5y1Eq/w400-h272/enrico%20and%20enrica%20scavino%20and%20de%20Rham%201984.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Enrico, daughter Enrica and Armando de Rham<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"> </span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: times; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">What I remember about Enrico, and his whole family,
was that they were pretty mellow. Driven yes, but calm. They looked at time in
generational terms, something most Americans have a hard time gripping onto.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR0AZE69NGXOZ9FFhVlnjEwdM9sU2TEHv-uuqaeWs7Vb_liW0_gLeZ28srt4m42fEjzQLw3Rjqw-mjVZMGYs2eSHb2xuyzgTsLH9_NK4JII5ykbQgJh_D4ZS2jdpb1oT-lrjzKsqiDV9iPoVSvvqyg6sMFpKAKIPdpxoZOd7oayxq6EReLez-a/s4895/AMC_3786.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3268" data-original-width="4895" height="268" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR0AZE69NGXOZ9FFhVlnjEwdM9sU2TEHv-uuqaeWs7Vb_liW0_gLeZ28srt4m42fEjzQLw3Rjqw-mjVZMGYs2eSHb2xuyzgTsLH9_NK4JII5ykbQgJh_D4ZS2jdpb1oT-lrjzKsqiDV9iPoVSvvqyg6sMFpKAKIPdpxoZOd7oayxq6EReLez-a/w400-h268/AMC_3786.JPG" width="400" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidiDReifNOQD6-PtEqtWQ5zHgbPfBh3e1Fcq-oMIq53TJEh8MUSi3tezJnTaJnCAn3Tndy449OvF1_H-Ow2c8J4rTOT3s9Z_PvOyXdHZKYjEktTf17f1amuLzoc40W5Np7iRxzkX6cDjkjoiTcLZRPdY3FIpx3pa1e8IFQZbH-9SpNasK1i_MH/s4016/AMC_3802.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4016" data-original-width="4016" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidiDReifNOQD6-PtEqtWQ5zHgbPfBh3e1Fcq-oMIq53TJEh8MUSi3tezJnTaJnCAn3Tndy449OvF1_H-Ow2c8J4rTOT3s9Z_PvOyXdHZKYjEktTf17f1amuLzoc40W5Np7iRxzkX6cDjkjoiTcLZRPdY3FIpx3pa1e8IFQZbH-9SpNasK1i_MH/s320/AMC_3802.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />Thirty years later, in 2015, I returned to the winery,
for the 30<sup>th</sup> anniversary festivities for their crowning achievement,
their Barolo Bric del Fiasc. Luminaries from all over the wine world flew in
for the party, and we were lucky to be in Italy at the time and get invited. <br /><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU9PVFhOVbXdXNUctOuOu7Sm3R9iZQMQJXiSGSXun7aSaKo0S3P-FfajJcrtX1jQqGzypJP18fyQJBHfLEfrHqJfj3pqbPB41InNFhOVegGwYRMwp7St6e3_AGpUjR1L0kDSNpqCPdN_ifclCAYA9FRVIhAsinP7uNAJeCWd5N2xMpdcInyip0/s4016/AMC_3808sq.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4016" data-original-width="4016" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU9PVFhOVbXdXNUctOuOu7Sm3R9iZQMQJXiSGSXun7aSaKo0S3P-FfajJcrtX1jQqGzypJP18fyQJBHfLEfrHqJfj3pqbPB41InNFhOVegGwYRMwp7St6e3_AGpUjR1L0kDSNpqCPdN_ifclCAYA9FRVIhAsinP7uNAJeCWd5N2xMpdcInyip0/s320/AMC_3808sq.JPG" width="320" /></a><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3TVGXC5dqaC3PMyc7GX8u4MYWBdKyli7h11kjWOja4WgBudQfm8DN0y31HkEfL77XHOR9VbdCxHi5ggQcbPOIbOOLVrmPrTWJAQ7qtdJIwWV5O-yWl4ANn1TcKOc7WrEVFpI4exjzynaVRERH4SK_FVcqj7BMtU2_UffULfkLvuuY1goMHvem/s702/scavino%20daughter%20elisa%20copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="702" height="274" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3TVGXC5dqaC3PMyc7GX8u4MYWBdKyli7h11kjWOja4WgBudQfm8DN0y31HkEfL77XHOR9VbdCxHi5ggQcbPOIbOOLVrmPrTWJAQ7qtdJIwWV5O-yWl4ANn1TcKOc7WrEVFpI4exjzynaVRERH4SK_FVcqj7BMtU2_UffULfkLvuuY1goMHvem/w400-h274/scavino%20daughter%20elisa%20copy.jpg" width="400" /></a></div></div><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">I
always had a soft spot in my heart for Elisa, ever since she was a toddler. But
the whole family emanated a warmth and a familiarity that was welcoming and
engaging. One of the great things about being in the wine world, and getting to
know and love the people in it.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">When I got word that Enrico has passed, it saddened
me. So many people in the wine world that I grew up with have left us. Or rather,
left their little rivulets and gone on to the Greater Sea.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">Indeed, after a period of swimming in the vinous river of
the Langhe, Enrico has also gone into that Larger Presence.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Bon anima, amico. See you on the other side.</span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_I4m_GqJJIVhcDrkl5AjDUD8wrYEtS11QPNad1RItY-y70AWT9iSQSngwCxhTOPN85Ws6zXZCB4F7nMMXfViy-imll0IjeVzy56FBJpeUc3SfkcuWh2YipPVnzrTEE2bUhbJhOUOLOsnMzSMgJYlIGy-HuGBx0JnjgdFmR_ZOVmRqFvRi8di6/s747/scavino%20saying%20bye%20copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="518" data-original-width="747" height="278" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_I4m_GqJJIVhcDrkl5AjDUD8wrYEtS11QPNad1RItY-y70AWT9iSQSngwCxhTOPN85Ws6zXZCB4F7nMMXfViy-imll0IjeVzy56FBJpeUc3SfkcuWh2YipPVnzrTEE2bUhbJhOUOLOsnMzSMgJYlIGy-HuGBx0JnjgdFmR_ZOVmRqFvRi8di6/w400-h278/scavino%20saying%20bye%20copy.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span><p></p>
<span style="font-size: small;">© written and photographed by <a href="http://www.blogger.com/profile/16983431475848714789">Alfonso Cevola</a></span><span style="font-size: small;"> limited rights reserved <a href="http://acevola.blogspot.com/">On the Wine Trail in Italy</a></span>
<div style="color: white;">
wine blog + Italian wine blog + Italy W</div>
Alfonso Cevolahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16983431475848714789noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20283310.post-20502108242209307182024-02-25T08:04:00.005-06:002024-02-26T10:13:44.641-06:00“Am I drinking too much wine?”<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 22pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 22pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4ZdlQmeZ2drV9Bz_gxNYW3STSdM-ZV-QIdjg-yLj1C8GYZTD6YkaBdKjlx8qZYxxYoX9Js_KOUHQpJqB8SzLJKMzoj5-9x1SDCS2QnRppn9pruWXU_jkAu9J9IqN8UxCS3557mi5KiGvi4dg9XHTeq6XbjJDXhbr89xmyc3A-9yU9Fntc-IqQ/s2610/SAM_2213.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2610" data-original-width="2610" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4ZdlQmeZ2drV9Bz_gxNYW3STSdM-ZV-QIdjg-yLj1C8GYZTD6YkaBdKjlx8qZYxxYoX9Js_KOUHQpJqB8SzLJKMzoj5-9x1SDCS2QnRppn9pruWXU_jkAu9J9IqN8UxCS3557mi5KiGvi4dg9XHTeq6XbjJDXhbr89xmyc3A-9yU9Fntc-IqQ/s320/SAM_2213.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 22pt; line-height: 107%;">I</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">’ve been abstaining from drinking any
kind of alcohol for the past month, as I had knee surgery and didn’t want it to
interact with any medications I was on. Things also were tasting metallic,
probably a reaction from all the chemicals that had been pumped into me. Do you
want to know something? I really didn’t miss wine.<span><a name='more'></a></span></span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">Meanwhile, I scroll past endless dinners and wine
tastings from friends and colleagues. The effect is that some of these folks
seem to be having an endless and moveable feast, from London to New York, Milan
to Hong Kong. If I didn’t know better, I’d almost jump to the conclusion that
some of my friends and colleagues might have a drinking problem. But that’s the
problem with social media – folks offer these brief snapshots of their life and
it fills up the viewfinder, as if that were all they were doing. Of course,
they are involved in other activities as well – sleeping, bathing, paying
bills, having sex, packing, traveling, waiting at airports, checking into
hotels and taking out the garbage. But who wants to see any of that! </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcLeK36gWzFcXRVBIid22Alq0VBwphGc0GGH-7oHUDwvKG5O1xRab2YRpnQGJ8ADtDo4zCV38nu6GlJngZpYCbntj3ka3nkZJYxYQgdEexbbMn-sMppb_Ct8lOh7kbcp4voOs5i_4fUk7cHfUDVAlwtKcInL5YOIkDreTPhPKtXs315BnXrGXZ/s4000/SAM_2173.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2672" data-original-width="4000" height="268" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcLeK36gWzFcXRVBIid22Alq0VBwphGc0GGH-7oHUDwvKG5O1xRab2YRpnQGJ8ADtDo4zCV38nu6GlJngZpYCbntj3ka3nkZJYxYQgdEexbbMn-sMppb_Ct8lOh7kbcp4voOs5i_4fUk7cHfUDVAlwtKcInL5YOIkDreTPhPKtXs315BnXrGXZ/w400-h268/SAM_2173.JPG" width="400" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><br />But I do wonder and worry if any of those folks are
struggling with alcohol. The shot of the sandwich and a beer or a glass of wine
at the airport. The shot of a bottle of wine as someone just arrived in
Italy/France/Spain/etc. The shot of someone’s multi-course dinner with friends,
accompanied by a plethora of trophy/grail wines. Over and over. As if obtaining
those unobtainable wines allow oneself to slip under the radar of one who might
or might not be addicted to alcohol. It’s become a bigger problem now that we
are all up in everyone’s business, thanks to their Instagram feeds. I mentioned
this once to a friend who likes to imbibe. He told me, quite candidly, “Yes,
but I’m a functional alcoholic.” I guess it sounds less catastrophic that way.
But at the end of a night of eating and drinking, at the point when I’d called
it quits 30-45 minutes before and switched to water, he was still opening
bottles. I know some of you might be wondering if I’m casting the shame pole
into the murky waters of the lives of others. Or some kind of virtue signaling.
I assure you; those thoughts have crossed my mind. But I know most folks aren’t
just hanging out at the bar, all day and all night, day in and day out. They
are working, sleeping, etc. But some of us have gotten caught in a hook in which
release is difficult, if not impossible. And I worry about that, for alcohol is
tricky and moves stealthily. </span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi212PykSGHSBNC9_ej-LvRRAkhE-yP-NPeHYaJRlbMBw0C5_6c-Wqpx1hOelSVLsJVXqkGeshP1-IM3MpKv7QsHkA-LFQcASC7UqbzOHuOlKnMxNsUDKcM1VXeCXp14awsODgQuEFy_C0RuQhgJvBJzw3Fq5deCy_luIT8yQX9YkaTZ9npyWmt/s2994/P1040299.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2994" data-original-width="2994" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi212PykSGHSBNC9_ej-LvRRAkhE-yP-NPeHYaJRlbMBw0C5_6c-Wqpx1hOelSVLsJVXqkGeshP1-IM3MpKv7QsHkA-LFQcASC7UqbzOHuOlKnMxNsUDKcM1VXeCXp14awsODgQuEFy_C0RuQhgJvBJzw3Fq5deCy_luIT8yQX9YkaTZ9npyWmt/s320/P1040299.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">As for myself, this has caused me to reflect on my
relationship and usage of alcohol, couched in the figure of a vintage bottle of
wine, preferably from Italy or France, as that is what is mainly taking up space in my wine closet/cave.</span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">So, I asked myself, “Am I drinking too much wine?” Last
month notwithstanding, I took a look at my usage, based on what I depleted from
my collection, which is tidily arranged on a spread sheet.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxmnTfpM6TUgUB9_o0foJIDi1vFM4sE5l7_MPYB-EKXFmhuba8bAxMmxLKyabkSqJ5jX7ytWrbtnOJi0chQiLYLdpPoVnJtgk_-sefsS5EestXcjT1hvQ3zkVBJpjRYq5zIh4vcsavMGhiBtlK49gBdNVAw5NwZet24VzPQVFlqhWPsdM10XT2/s2887/P1040224.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2887" data-original-width="2887" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxmnTfpM6TUgUB9_o0foJIDi1vFM4sE5l7_MPYB-EKXFmhuba8bAxMmxLKyabkSqJ5jX7ytWrbtnOJi0chQiLYLdpPoVnJtgk_-sefsS5EestXcjT1hvQ3zkVBJpjRYq5zIh4vcsavMGhiBtlK49gBdNVAw5NwZet24VzPQVFlqhWPsdM10XT2/s320/P1040224.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><br />Well, since retirement, five years ago now, I
definitely have been drinking less. Especially red wine. Not that I haven’t
tried. It’s just that the way I eat now is sparser than it was when I was
younger and in the work force. I just don’t eat as much. And, seeing as I often
choose wine to go with our meals, if the meals get smaller or less often, then
the consumption of wine decreases. And it has.</span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">So, how does one know if they have a drinking problem,
especially if one is involved in the trade? Well, it has always been expected
that those in the job help promote the trade. And that involves popping corks
and trying, promoting and encouraging others to imbibe as well. These days it
might not be as politically correct to do so, but how does one balance the
needs of one’s livelihood with the demands of one’s personal health? Is there a
razor’s edge one must balance oneself upon in this quest to achieve work/life
harmony? </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">A lot of questions. Not a lot of answers. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGx4oEQwq_DEHJcGgze7DNzgCqcPuYrFqqhkp6cQ9xpj_2HNrpPPR5ppwyT9Wy8-e9s44gF0MpIiVgNybcW0-oA5h1MIHB80z-2xKvLIH5R218fI4m9nsFuvQEVwkrrgyy2s-o2mnUh4wcSpJJqEDjfGNhxIMk7wB5gz6dQGRAOXORM_QAYz54/s5184/P1040878.JPG"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="5184" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGx4oEQwq_DEHJcGgze7DNzgCqcPuYrFqqhkp6cQ9xpj_2HNrpPPR5ppwyT9Wy8-e9s44gF0MpIiVgNybcW0-oA5h1MIHB80z-2xKvLIH5R218fI4m9nsFuvQEVwkrrgyy2s-o2mnUh4wcSpJJqEDjfGNhxIMk7wB5gz6dQGRAOXORM_QAYz54/w400-h266/P1040878.JPG" width="400" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><br />Funny, though, that this comes up more and more in the
21<sup>st</sup> century. Healthy living and longevity are sought after goals,
and if wine (or overall, alcohol) consumption doesn’t promote those objectives,
they could be seen as a precarious obstruction towards attaining those goals. </span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">But alcohol is fun! There’s the buzz factor, which we
rarely talk about in public, but which many folks muse over in private
conversations. I’m not talking about getting snot-slinging drunk, just a wave
of light exhilaration. Gotta be good for the blood pressure, no? So, how bad
can it be in the long run?</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">When I had my tonsils taken out eight years ago, I
stopped drinking any alcohol while recovering. I had a profusion of chemicals
careening around my system: steroids, antibiotics, morphine, iodine, aspirin,
ibuprofen. Alcohol was just one more toxic substance.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg90hbJ4Y9I3GKjtEpEQB0memFAalqA5tiJt9_uVfwfqQreO75Eu2b2FgyEWoTRGC6ytReG6SavQEBVSDpeFsxGQvGmEtkM5vbryY1l7Ph7H0HeGXw7E1PI-pYTB7Ogrx-s0DwMheZxsCh-M1uHely_n2G8wVqIE2OFgJTu_fRmA7JEeJn-qw6g/s3456/P1040303.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg90hbJ4Y9I3GKjtEpEQB0memFAalqA5tiJt9_uVfwfqQreO75Eu2b2FgyEWoTRGC6ytReG6SavQEBVSDpeFsxGQvGmEtkM5vbryY1l7Ph7H0HeGXw7E1PI-pYTB7Ogrx-s0DwMheZxsCh-M1uHely_n2G8wVqIE2OFgJTu_fRmA7JEeJn-qw6g/s320/P1040303.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><br />When I resumed, 100 days later, I could take wine. But
distilled spirits burned. Badly. So, I laid off spirits. Eventually I would sip
on a liqueur or even a scotch whiskey or tequila, but in small doses. I could
feel the toxicity to my system, so I backed off.</span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">For myself, I know that I am not drinking too much
wine. I’m not drinking as much as I’d like, even though right now that is a
pretty low bar. I know I’m not addicted to the stuff. I’m not even sure how
much I like it anymore, to be brutally honest. I’m not in love with it. But I
like it, occasionally. Maybe it’s just autumn season of my life I’m in.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">This is an attempt to reconfigure wines importance in
my life. It was never front-stage-and-center. Wine, to me, is a marker within a
more inclusive cultural setting. It’s an appendage, rather than the heart.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">Years ago, I wrote this, and it bears repeating in my
present stage of recovery: <i>“Coming out of the fog I found myself in these
past few weeks, I realize that balance, not only in wine, but in life, is more
important than acid, than minerality, than fruit, or wood, or expression or
concentration. Too much of a good thing is just that – too much.”</i></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">What about you, friends and readers? </span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu0eyXL7uB5qWxRT_FhUQOTSkm2fhyphenhypheniApz17HOEs7Xr7rKBJshBQZsHr64BOYN6AyHLDnOPUeQA8GLiQcJehPetsvz3AlJS0OW6_OQkPa-KZip2L51m4t_i3-jv55PBOQOuRvf7B4yezUb0FsAnCl-iJsvYTxXTVLiQdP9CElLIW6P2ieKnShJ/s2284/SAM_9852.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2284" data-original-width="2284" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu0eyXL7uB5qWxRT_FhUQOTSkm2fhyphenhypheniApz17HOEs7Xr7rKBJshBQZsHr64BOYN6AyHLDnOPUeQA8GLiQcJehPetsvz3AlJS0OW6_OQkPa-KZip2L51m4t_i3-jv55PBOQOuRvf7B4yezUb0FsAnCl-iJsvYTxXTVLiQdP9CElLIW6P2ieKnShJ/s320/SAM_9852.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span><p></p>
<div class="by-line"><span style="font-size: small;">© written and photographed by <a href="http://www.blogger.com/profile/16983431475848714789">Alfonso Cevola</a></span><span style="font-size: small;"> limited rights reserved <a href="http://acevola.blogspot.com/">On the Wine Trail in Italy</a></span></div><div class="by-line"><span style="font-size: small;"> </span></div><div class="by-line"><span style="font-size: small;"> comments here:<br /><a href="https://www.facebook.com/alfonso.cevola/">https://www.facebook.com/alfonso.cevola/</a><br /><a href="https://www.instagram.com/alfonso.cevola/">https://www.instagram.com/alfonso.cevola/</a></span></div>
<div style="color: white;">
wine blog + Italian wine blog + Italy W</div>
Alfonso Cevolahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16983431475848714789noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20283310.post-75553413369505597552024-02-18T11:07:00.008-06:002024-02-20T07:56:23.336-06:00The Day After - A World and a Lifetime Ago<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 24pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 24pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsO7yxOwDAT99uBnNVrZPIQZZnAHS4oYAJvKJDkCPgNd7dnIAl8t1YKxZv3J_oOBbljeO_ev-NRzZuHYm1EWdD23hYbDQiTU1gs-zjO8uqpcb-oFESoKxAX-QiXd4m8N41U8L9f2vKLb_ByfVqw4aeBBTuVOQ4FlsaKzHecvH2qRZfmQ6xjte4/s316/liz%20at%20lake%20appx%201987%20copy%20copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="215" data-original-width="316" height="272" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsO7yxOwDAT99uBnNVrZPIQZZnAHS4oYAJvKJDkCPgNd7dnIAl8t1YKxZv3J_oOBbljeO_ev-NRzZuHYm1EWdD23hYbDQiTU1gs-zjO8uqpcb-oFESoKxAX-QiXd4m8N41U8L9f2vKLb_ByfVqw4aeBBTuVOQ4FlsaKzHecvH2qRZfmQ6xjte4/w400-h272/liz%20at%20lake%20appx%201987%20copy%20copy.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 24pt; line-height: 107%;">Y</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">esterday morning, very early, I had
this odd sensation. I remember lying in bed, as I have done for the past month,
recovering from full-knee replacement surgery. I hadn’t been sleeping well for
that month, so I just figured it was part of the process, wailing and flailing
and general discomfort.</span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">And then I heard an ancient song, by the Shangri-las,
whispering lyrics to their hit song, <i>“Remember”</i>:</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: 1.5in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 0in; margin: 0in 0in 0in 1.5in;"><i><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">(Remember) walking in the sand</span></i></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: 1.5in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 0in; margin: 0in 0in 0in 1.5in;"><i><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">(Remember) walking hand-in-hand</span></i></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: 1.5in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 0in; margin: 0in 0in 0in 1.5in;"><i><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">(Remember) the night was so exciting</span></i></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: 1.5in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 0in; margin: 0in 0in 0in 1.5in;"><i><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">(Remember) smile was so inviting</span></i></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: 1.5in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 0in; margin: 0in 0in 0in 1.5in;"><i><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">(Remember) then she touched my cheek</span></i></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: 1.5in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 0in; margin: 0in 0in 0in 1.5in;"><i><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">(Remember) with her fingertips</span></i></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: 1.5in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 0in; margin: 0in 0in 0in 1.5in;"><i><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">Softly, softly we'd meet with our lips</span></i></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">And then, I remembered.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">The same day, a Saturday, 23 years ago to the day,
February 17, 2001, I got a call from the care center where my wife Lizanne was.
It was 5:30 AM. “Mr. Cevola, you need to come. Your wife doesn’t have much more
time.”</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">So, I got up, fed the cat, got dressed and headed out
to say good-bye to my dear wife.<span></span></span></p><a name='more'></a><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3ZUT6nt4Z-Og-C0bNsx0N0UotRQEnUlVJac-RDAEXDwpB2SuwBBzlbyIUfggaQde_6rLtI71htwhHEKYFEwONoZ5oq1GtvYwPebhF5c5y25yWzxzYpMnpvmrSIDEaFTKqQWFJbQbCeqvl9VeETBOgA2KuYqG59QjtDtxSqAbcVeYrvgtYQDK5/s352/liz%20and%20alfonso%201987%20ish.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="248" data-original-width="352" height="281" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3ZUT6nt4Z-Og-C0bNsx0N0UotRQEnUlVJac-RDAEXDwpB2SuwBBzlbyIUfggaQde_6rLtI71htwhHEKYFEwONoZ5oq1GtvYwPebhF5c5y25yWzxzYpMnpvmrSIDEaFTKqQWFJbQbCeqvl9VeETBOgA2KuYqG59QjtDtxSqAbcVeYrvgtYQDK5/w400-h281/liz%20and%20alfonso%201987%20ish.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><br />I got there in time for us to watch the sun rise, her
last sunrise, before she slipped away. I was saddened, but relieved her
suffering would be over. She had just turned 48 on the 14<sup>th</sup>. She was
determined to make it to her birthday. She would never see 50, or 60, or 70.
Multiple Sclerosis saw to that.</span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">23 years later, how does it go? It goes. Life goes on,
with or without us. But as I’ve witnessed in our age of social media, when
friends of mine lose their mates too early or untimely, they let us know just
how painful it is in the beginning. The truth is, it still is. It’s just that
one lives to learn to endure the pain, to live with it. What else can you do?</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">The day of Liz’s passing, her best friend told me to
come over and stay with them that night, to not be alone. I went home, got some
things, fed the cat again, and headed over. We had a meal, some wine, and I went
to bed in their guest room, which when Liz was her roommate, was once Liz’s
room. As I was slipping into sleep, I felt Liz gently graze my arm with her
touch, as she moved on into the greater cosmos. She was unbound, everything
would be ok for her.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrdSsnrpRcn21lJwZk-GnVrzjzOV7lQz0pUeToJYo2dBIMl-gHqXWMhiPk_mPRU8ZPhfImyGGHXA1AZGpkGkmpiQAekIwVJINPNl7fluGhcry73UrkMKUs9G7uxX_mAqCaIAWkUtqqppyFecGjcI3aQ3thYbXK1CbzBAC2ez4hA9UKRlG2EtW5/s321/liz%20at%20buchart%20gardens%20appx%201994.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="239" data-original-width="321" height="297" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrdSsnrpRcn21lJwZk-GnVrzjzOV7lQz0pUeToJYo2dBIMl-gHqXWMhiPk_mPRU8ZPhfImyGGHXA1AZGpkGkmpiQAekIwVJINPNl7fluGhcry73UrkMKUs9G7uxX_mAqCaIAWkUtqqppyFecGjcI3aQ3thYbXK1CbzBAC2ez4hA9UKRlG2EtW5/w400-h297/liz%20at%20buchart%20gardens%20appx%201994.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><br />For those of us still tethered to our bodies and this
earth, it would be a different story. Many years, many tears, a lot of pain. Rinse
and repeat. </span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">But I would find a way to stay the course. If only to
honor the struggle she gave, by living the best life I could, for me and for
her memory.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">I’m not sure I excelled in that part. But I tried. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">What I found out, along the way, was that things like
work and career are highly over-rated. Sure, I raced up and down the wine trail in Italy
for years until the race ended. And I took it so very seriously. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL_71pWoyfYZS2Uq8qFhEhXz0rafoT-o0aTSDTa4Yzdl3jCeLLngcLs5sKvULw0nZk_vdBoenV9lZltK94z9W1rxElDYnukG37PmguaIELa9Df58zyg5mVWpB7sWqqxapMjP615-rocO3FdHM61a2Tiq3-lGBDV-ai3lQdglVeHP0VPdq1OyU0/s336/liz%20in%20italy%201988%201990.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="223" data-original-width="336" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL_71pWoyfYZS2Uq8qFhEhXz0rafoT-o0aTSDTa4Yzdl3jCeLLngcLs5sKvULw0nZk_vdBoenV9lZltK94z9W1rxElDYnukG37PmguaIELa9Df58zyg5mVWpB7sWqqxapMjP615-rocO3FdHM61a2Tiq3-lGBDV-ai3lQdglVeHP0VPdq1OyU0/w400-h265/liz%20in%20italy%201988%201990.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><br />I laugh now, because it seems a bit delusional to think
any one of us can make that big of a difference in anything, let alone making
the world safe for Italian wine. Ha! Anyway, that was my lesson. I don’t expect
anyone else to read this and take this as a cautionary tale. We all have our
destinies lined up for us.</span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">But love and family and peace and health and yes,
happiness, are the Golden Fleece of this life for me. And for anyone listening,
take heed. Your child is a million times more important than a placement, a blog
post, an unforgettable meal or a once-in-a-lifetime 20-30-40-year vertical
tasting of some fabulous wine property in Italy or France. Those pursuits are as dull as dishwater compared to the essential stuff of life.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">One last note: I’ve kept a dream log every time I had
a dream about Liz. I know her essence is still in my heart as well as running
around the universe. Maybe one day, when I am no longer corporeal, our essences
will dance together again, drink the wine of the cosmos, and everything will be
as one, as the physicists tell us it is. Until then, I am here, 23<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>years to the day after, still loving, and still
remembering our hand-in-hand walk, in the sands of time.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7UBEtGAFVmgpFWYku9QIqNn2r0Yo5MWUjtToKuYtjtPYUP38uy6UAFs71P0tKjZpXQfJzbnnvooY5_Yii4vCemLzh-KjSj0pPLyif-YgkWiYGajGjr-DX5Epg5yf_-B_i2AcU9c8DcAHqnLZ1ZHFwDyIBTMIgg5siOXt0szosdL_yFkUns-Vx/s356/liz%20at%20santa%20fe%20appx%201987%201988.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="248" data-original-width="356" height="279" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7UBEtGAFVmgpFWYku9QIqNn2r0Yo5MWUjtToKuYtjtPYUP38uy6UAFs71P0tKjZpXQfJzbnnvooY5_Yii4vCemLzh-KjSj0pPLyif-YgkWiYGajGjr-DX5Epg5yf_-B_i2AcU9c8DcAHqnLZ1ZHFwDyIBTMIgg5siOXt0szosdL_yFkUns-Vx/w400-h279/liz%20at%20santa%20fe%20appx%201987%201988.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"> <br /></span><p></p>
<span style="font-size: small;">© written and photographed by <a href="http://www.blogger.com/profile/16983431475848714789">Alfonso Cevola</a></span><span style="font-size: small;"> limited rights reserved <a href="http://acevola.blogspot.com/">On the Wine Trail in Italy</a></span>
<div style="color: white;">
wine blog + Italian wine blog + Italy W</div>
Alfonso Cevolahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16983431475848714789noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20283310.post-61247561282131395182024-02-11T09:33:00.002-06:002024-02-11T10:24:20.736-06:00My Italian Bucket List – Version 2024<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 24pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 24pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU3mIpKJGmoPQMssM-RIkDSX55HEL2ELf-q6aXW4Mk3S7P_OSo6t8mBxrzX2X6DlossWBS575qF0kXHdfEdKzfG2W8RXI4_8wpD7_wVycxWLPkNyUb8oYDMyVh25xR3zY19G_j2vEmyL-c66sTH56Yh0AmNVcbex3kUmCzeMvGSCz39Qo4ddPD/s6016/AMC_4875.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4016" data-original-width="6016" height="268" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU3mIpKJGmoPQMssM-RIkDSX55HEL2ELf-q6aXW4Mk3S7P_OSo6t8mBxrzX2X6DlossWBS575qF0kXHdfEdKzfG2W8RXI4_8wpD7_wVycxWLPkNyUb8oYDMyVh25xR3zY19G_j2vEmyL-c66sTH56Yh0AmNVcbex3kUmCzeMvGSCz39Qo4ddPD/w400-h268/AMC_4875.JPG" width="400" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 24pt; line-height: 107%;">A</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">fter having been to Italy multiple
times for work and play, since 1971, one would think someone like me might have
ticked off all the boxes of an immersive and exhaustive Italian experience. It
seems though, on further contemplation, that there are a few boxes remaining to
be filled in. So, here goes.</span><a name="_Hlk158535387"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"> <br /></span></a><p></p>
<ul style="text-align: left;"><li class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0.25in;"><span style="mso-bookmark: _Hlk158535387;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">Visit
Sardegna – Of all the regions I haven’t been to there remains one – Sardegna.
I’d love to visit the island, find the wild parts, hug the coastline, eat lamb,
drink Cannonau and discover what it is about the island that makes it unique
and wonderful. </span></span></li></ul><ul style="text-align: left;"><li class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0.25in;"><span style="mso-bookmark: _Hlk158535387;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">Drive
or ride around Italy in a Ferrari – True confession: I have never driven or
rode around Italy in the fabled motorcar. Or anywhere, for that matter! I’d
like to break that spell and take a ride (short or long, fast or slow) in Italy
in a Ferrari. Simple enough, yes? </span></span></li></ul><ul style="text-align: left;"><li class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0.25in;"><span style="mso-bookmark: _Hlk158535387;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">Wineries
to visit that I have never been to – those would be Roberto Conterno, Angelo
Gaja, Edoardo Valentini, Biondi-Santi and Sassicaia. These are iconic wineries
and their wines. Although I have tasted and enjoyed many times, I have never
had the pleasure, or privilege, of visiting <i>ad locum</i>.</span></span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"> <br /></span></li></ul>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM4QysHGrjAtc7g5AQk4jP0lpQq4jXExE2x2QES0p1BHDXPPRhuJMH9AwIu3nAfIJbDRpDlb9W06JSeybBhM6dt_Q2GPklPJOUpHLobO9_lXgBdoc3gCx1UzQ7pl5XCwNEtlt8kmEOhS5c-7BNBqChvJzCl6m7SdjAf4byZCipRHeuFbMGGxYV/s756/mom-liz-al%20foto%20copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="504" data-original-width="756" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM4QysHGrjAtc7g5AQk4jP0lpQq4jXExE2x2QES0p1BHDXPPRhuJMH9AwIu3nAfIJbDRpDlb9W06JSeybBhM6dt_Q2GPklPJOUpHLobO9_lXgBdoc3gCx1UzQ7pl5XCwNEtlt8kmEOhS5c-7BNBqChvJzCl6m7SdjAf4byZCipRHeuFbMGGxYV/w400-h266/mom-liz-al%20foto%20copy.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><br />Unfortunately, there is one thing I will
never be able to check off. And that would have been to travel in Italy with my
mom. We talked about it, even tried to plan it, but my wife Liz, at the time,
was too sick. So, it never happened. Happily, my mom was able to go to Italy
with my two sisters and a grand-daughter. It was a “girl trip.” And they had a
great time. But I missed out on being one of the girls.</span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">Really, on reflection, there isn’t much I have missed
in regards to my Italian journey. I’ll probably get to Sardegna, not sure about
the other things on the list. But I have no complaints. Italy has been very
kind and most generous in sharing her bounty and her beauty with me in my lifetime.
And for that, I am most grateful.</span></p>
<div class="by-line"><span style="font-size: small;"> </span></div><div class="by-line"><span style="font-size: small;">© written and photographed by <a href="http://www.blogger.com/profile/16983431475848714789">Alfonso Cevola</a></span><span style="font-size: small;"> limited rights reserved <a href="http://acevola.blogspot.com/">On the Wine Trail in Italy</a></span> </div>
<div style="color: white;">
wine blog + Italian wine blog + Italy W</div>
Alfonso Cevolahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16983431475848714789noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20283310.post-80202399734710444862024-02-04T13:51:00.005-06:002024-02-06T12:08:12.820-06:00What makes up Italian wine now?<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 22pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 22pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBnrVxMmz-d_9lBYVy3zTZ_O3Q7c0UgUX39VgIRzTY0uZvuSNs0Co9EKOR_LunD1JxW1w5MkXA_UZbwpQrqX6wa8zv5JEAqoHNIBrK7Nky5BYm_Emsaz_iqJAr5qe1wcilddjPcsOCR2O59V6OSfK5NOXT9JIPouMhhu_Q0lCUFJ-IxAjfpfgj/s864/Salvo_Old%20Vyd.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="576" data-original-width="864" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBnrVxMmz-d_9lBYVy3zTZ_O3Q7c0UgUX39VgIRzTY0uZvuSNs0Co9EKOR_LunD1JxW1w5MkXA_UZbwpQrqX6wa8zv5JEAqoHNIBrK7Nky5BYm_Emsaz_iqJAr5qe1wcilddjPcsOCR2O59V6OSfK5NOXT9JIPouMhhu_Q0lCUFJ-IxAjfpfgj/w400-h266/Salvo_Old%20Vyd.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 22pt; line-height: 107%;">A</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">s one looks over the evolution of
Italian wine, one can find one consistent factor – change. Nothing stays the
same, whether it be technological, tastes or styles. Today's bright star was
yesterday’s smoldering nebula, just waiting to appear in time. Wines that were
thought to be the “end of the world,” in 1980, are now conscripted to the
dustbin of history. Not that this jives with quality or value. In fact, some of
what propels Italian wine is this contrarian philosophy, a stubbornness to
accede to whatever has become dominant, to maybe even become suppositious of
that success. </span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><i><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">“Every generation re-invents the wheel,”</span></i><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">
as the saying goes. And in wine, as in Italy, re-invention is part of the
culture. <i>“One cannot take chances in the shallow end of the pool – you must
dive into the deep end, the unknown, with both dangers and rewards awaiting.”</i></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">How can it be that Italian wine, from 1946 until 2000
blazed a trail towards dominance in the wine world with incredible speed and
accuracy, only to give it away to the new generation?<span></span></span></p><a name='more'></a><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL1ymDspFcGLpDyjdJ-N7Bayu2EXgx-NST9LaC3LRJKWA6gTVW5S0eV_hSSeQGN_I1W3jceEyRZyQ_3fjEbzF6_HtfewzZRr4TqoJSZWQKoYM4-w0gGs9ep-tWvtHAKetD_OTzuRVxAt5H1Igz2q62hPuq-LLDYGhnPFSXlQcFelc8uHrEnWYC/s864/AMC_2146%20sonnino%20in%20vin%20santo%20room.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="577" data-original-width="864" height="268" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL1ymDspFcGLpDyjdJ-N7Bayu2EXgx-NST9LaC3LRJKWA6gTVW5S0eV_hSSeQGN_I1W3jceEyRZyQ_3fjEbzF6_HtfewzZRr4TqoJSZWQKoYM4-w0gGs9ep-tWvtHAKetD_OTzuRVxAt5H1Igz2q62hPuq-LLDYGhnPFSXlQcFelc8uHrEnWYC/w400-h268/AMC_2146%20sonnino%20in%20vin%20santo%20room.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><br />Well, if you live long enough, one realizes it is
inevitable that we will have constraints on the time available to make one’s
mark. And then that time is up. So, somebody must take up the baton, for the
race is unending. Competition, desire, ambition, all motivate towards the
perfected state. And wine, every year, faces new challenges, be it climatic,
economic, societal or fashion.</span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">Right now, we’re in a cauldron of Babel, where all
things are enjoyed and shunned simultaneously, depending on the faction representing
or dissenting. It’s exciting, for one can virtually taste all of the history of
Italian wine in one setting, from the rustic and imperfect to the polished and unblemished.
Oak, no oak, Amphora, no amphora. Indigenous yeast, designer yeast. Cork
finished or screw top. Glass vessel or compostable box container. Red, white,
rosé, yellow, orange, brown. Sparkling, still, dry, sweet. Expensive or value
driven. Wine allows anyone with any taste level to enter and participate. It’s
democratic, it socialistic, it’s anarchistic, it’s compliant. It’s all of the
above. Pick and choose – for now.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyxoLv7A8I8eRDHC06rkPYrGy6Q_qertDbgWK7U-y9auu9YfqhE35HRxvcvrpyKLJ2FOcYGPDMWl19CWFByCvI9W5i-ZbLBDsPCf4EHU1ZrclbZ_oIvy2DA0-6wNksbVk_HhYj5hK3D4M0hixi3oKBdKvNLK8P7BfiPuoUWFVFqr7uGak6pjNy/s400/chez%20dinner%20Natalie%20opening%20wine.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="268" data-original-width="400" height="268" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyxoLv7A8I8eRDHC06rkPYrGy6Q_qertDbgWK7U-y9auu9YfqhE35HRxvcvrpyKLJ2FOcYGPDMWl19CWFByCvI9W5i-ZbLBDsPCf4EHU1ZrclbZ_oIvy2DA0-6wNksbVk_HhYj5hK3D4M0hixi3oKBdKvNLK8P7BfiPuoUWFVFqr7uGak6pjNy/w400-h268/chez%20dinner%20Natalie%20opening%20wine.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><br />I anticipate new forms of expression and modulation
from the different camps that represent interests in Italian wine. I imagine it
to be somewhat like Burning Man, where all groups are present, tooting their
own horns and in many cases celebrating other causes along the way. I
see the groups on websites, whether they are devoted to the perspective of
women, non-binary or minority groups, even the bastion of the old guard
establishment – middle aged and elderly white cisgender males. They’re all out there
dancing in the streets where Italian wine flows.</span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">Again, this piece isn’t about how wine tastes or the
latest DOC/DOCG. I’m reporting on observations made about the direction of
Italian wine in 2024. And like much of what we are witnessing today in the
world, there is a not-so-quiet revolution in the making.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">And along with that, there is the commercial behemoth
that is Italian wine, the good, the bad and the ugly. One of the largest producers
of wine in the world, historically, since the end of World War II. An endless
fountain of fiscal support for hundreds of thousands of Italians, working in
the fields, in the winery, in sales and marketing, in retail and restaurant, in
importation and distribution, in government regulation and enforcement, in
shipping, in warehousing, in delivery and in all the satellite industries that
have sprung up to support the cause. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHC74bJEUreGqQLo9E_m1wJvAsgqNJrsl-q0kyic0UTKIoJl3o6yzu_TWLQhMkL8_75pO3DkdlU7po0vbYKbTE6MAtti5mu9E4JUn_Iz5w4AEv84gF1ruMfPCBx5VE9HuOvCj6HDMUziqWj6KNa-FK4OdUK36gNtaR4A2xBdwDZMeo-nqhyphenhyphenicz/s960/IMG_26864058462171.jpeg"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="528" height="416" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHC74bJEUreGqQLo9E_m1wJvAsgqNJrsl-q0kyic0UTKIoJl3o6yzu_TWLQhMkL8_75pO3DkdlU7po0vbYKbTE6MAtti5mu9E4JUn_Iz5w4AEv84gF1ruMfPCBx5VE9HuOvCj6HDMUziqWj6KNa-FK4OdUK36gNtaR4A2xBdwDZMeo-nqhyphenhyphenicz/w229-h416/IMG_26864058462171.jpeg" width="229" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><br />That is what makes up Italian wine nowadays – it’s
both exciting and terrifying, challenging and rewarding. And the end user, the
wine lover, stands to win, over and over, in this heroic venture.</span><p></p>
<span style="font-size: small;">© written and photographed by <a href="http://www.blogger.com/profile/16983431475848714789">Alfonso Cevola</a></span><span style="font-size: small;"> limited rights reserved <a href="http://acevola.blogspot.com/">On the Wine Trail in Italy</a></span>
<div style="color: white;">
wine blog + Italian wine blog + Italy W</div>
Alfonso Cevolahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16983431475848714789noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20283310.post-66474134784766503502024-01-28T14:40:00.001-06:002024-01-28T14:40:46.832-06:00I Left My Heart in Barbaresco<p><span style="color: #666666;"><i>[from the archives while our blog monster is out on medical leave] <br /></i></span></p><p><i>High on a hill, it calls to me</i><br />
<br />
</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xvFba5aoELE/WmTSpd_NOPI/AAAAAAAAyNI/ZQPCTJAvtAMHeV_T-VDY4arM12p6acaOACLcBGAs/s1600/piemonte%2Bbarbaresco%2Bvineyard.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="568" data-original-width="864" height="262" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xvFba5aoELE/WmTSpd_NOPI/AAAAAAAAyNI/ZQPCTJAvtAMHeV_T-VDY4arM12p6acaOACLcBGAs/s400/piemonte%2Bbarbaresco%2Bvineyard.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: times;">W</span></span><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: times;">hat is it about a place that marks one’s soul? When a place seems more than recognizable the first time one walks in that place, although one had never been there? And that the spirit of the place infuses upon that soul and being, a sense of belonging, of an intimacy that transcends mere time and place? Such is the effect Barbaresco has had upon me for the greater part of my adult life. And it surprised no one more than myself, this attachment, this passion, for a place and its wine.<br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></span>
<a name='more'></a><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br />
My first contact was in an Italian restaurant, Il Sorrento on Turtle Creek Boulevard in Dallas. One of the local distributor bigwigs, Pinky Parrish, was a barrel-chested bourbon loving extrovert. He’d take up a whole dining section with his infectious fervor for food and wine. And he was entertaining a party in my section when he ordered a bottle of wine he’d sold the sommelier, a 1969 Calissano Barbaresco Riserva Speciale. <br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br />
“Take a taste,” he prompted this shy 28-year-old waiter. “You need to know about wine like this.” I couldn’t at the time, as the owner forbid drinking (even tasting) on the job. But he got me a sample later and I tried it at home. It was unlike anything I’d had growing up in California. And it was the start of a long journey, and a love affair, with a wine that I’m still smitten over.<br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br />
After I moved on to run a wine bar, I remembered that wine and wanted to put it on the list. the Calissano Barbaresco was no longer available, but their 1970 Barolo Riserva was and I put it on my list, for $12.00. I located another Barbaresco, a 1969 Prunotto Riserva and listed it, for the unbelievable price of $20.00.<br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></span>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HDthp0b5j84/WmTdRLgeRDI/AAAAAAAAyN0/jBLvwozp4D0LltRRaOQq2FSnZRNoFoGAQCLcBGAs/s1600/Barbaresco_view%2Bof%2Bthe%2BRiver%2BTanaro.jpg" style="font-family: times; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="699" data-original-width="1042" height="267" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HDthp0b5j84/WmTdRLgeRDI/AAAAAAAAyN0/jBLvwozp4D0LltRRaOQq2FSnZRNoFoGAQCLcBGAs/s400/Barbaresco_view%2Bof%2Bthe%2BRiver%2BTanaro.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: times;">
What I didn’t know, at the time, was that these were two Barolo producers making Barbaresco. I didn’t know the difference between the two places, Italian wine being a complex study. But I was intrigued with Nebbiolo, and Barbaresco.<br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br />
After I left the restaurant business I came into contact with the wines of Angelo Gaja. I was newly settled in a position, working for a wholesale distributor in Dallas, Texas. Estrada’s was a small, ramshackle kind of operation, based out of Galveston. Run by two brothers and a sister, George, Al and Pilar, they had impeccable taste in wine. And incredibly bad luck in business. Their portfolio was, at the time, in 1981, worthy of envy. Now, as well. DRC, Heitz, Schramsberg, Vega Sicilia, Dr. Pauly (this was before Thiese and Wiest) and any number of desirable wines from France, Germany, Spain, California and Italy. And we represented Gaja. <br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br />
At the time, Gaja was relatively unknown. Because of my Italian origins, one of the Estrada’s asked if I would work up a reorder on the Telex machine to Gaja. What followed was an education in negotiation and in wine. For I was clueless as to the status of Gaja and Barbaresco. In truth, we all were. What Angelo was planning was none less than daring and almost inconceivable. And that was to make his wine, Gaja Barbaresco, synonymous in global stature (and value) to the great wines of the world at the time – Lafite, Romanée-Conti, Bernkasteler Doktor, Vega Sicilia. <br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br />
What struck me, at the time, was how Gaja valued his wine. His Barbera was as expensive as many of the Nebbiolo wines coming out of Piedmont at the time. I didn’t have a great selection at the time, but the standard Barolo (we had Scanavino, which was a low to mid-tier product then) sold for less than his Barbera D’Alba. When I took a look at the price-list for his 1976 Barbaresco (the current offering at the time, which was about $7 a bottle, ex cellars) I was shocked. I didn’t have a base of clients for those wines in Dallas, Texas, in 1981. But we bought them, and we found homes for them. Sometimes we’d have to discount a bit more than we wanted to. Restaurateurs, at the time, were the most intractable. They wanted the cheapest Barolo, Amarone and Chianti they could find. And Barbaresco wasn’t even on their radar.<br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></span>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gZiPtF9wils/WmTfaysGhYI/AAAAAAAAyOA/LjTkTOsmrUI_GlwcFSb3zPKFnKP66OfewCLcBGAs/s1600/black%2Bcat%2Bin%2Bbarbaresco.jpg" style="font-family: times; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="545" data-original-width="1008" height="216" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gZiPtF9wils/WmTfaysGhYI/AAAAAAAAyOA/LjTkTOsmrUI_GlwcFSb3zPKFnKP66OfewCLcBGAs/s400/black%2Bcat%2Bin%2Bbarbaresco.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: times;">
Gaja was from Barbaresco. Barbaresco was the wine from his village. Yes, he made Barolo. But to him, Barbaresco was the wine that equalized this place (Barbaresco) with some of the great places in Bordeaux and Burgundy. Gaja was very much a champion of égalité for Italian wine – his wines being first and foremost. It was a hard sell, at the time. Now, the wines of Gaja, like the wines of DRC, are all but unobtainable to the unwashed masses. His crusade got him to the mountain top.<br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br />
As I moved on to another small company, Arwood H. Stowe, to run the Italian wine business for them, the wines of Gaja followed. Dallas in 1982 was flowering into a full-blown love fest with all things shiny and bright. It was a Golden Age for pageantry. And the new wave of Italian restaurateurs, arriving from Milan, Florence, New York and Miami were looking for “Il meglio del meglio.” I got in touch with people like Louis Bonaccolta of Trebon Wine in Flushing, NY, and Dominic Nocerino of Vinifera Imports in Wheaton, Illinois, looking for the best of the best. As well, our company had hooked up with a Florentine Barone, Armando de Rham, who had an Enoteca as well as an import brokerage business.<br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br />
From Trebon we secured Gaja wine. It was the 1979 Barbaresco at the unheard-of price (then) of $100 – per case (of 12). My boss questioned me about it. “Look, we’re offering 1964 Salon and 1966 Margaux, 1935 Taylor Port, and 1889 Tokaji Essencia and 1959 Lafite. By comparison, Gaja is a bargain!” I know Angelo Gaja would have rebuked me for using that word, it was so against the grain of his ego. But I was in the trenches in Dallas, not New York, and I had to find an angle to keep bringing his wines into my city. <br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br />
As well, from Dominic Nocerino, we had the wines of Bruno Giacosa with Barbaresco offerings from 1971 (Santo Stefano Riserva), 1979 (Gallina di Neive Riserva) and 1978 (Santo Stefano Riserva). These were comparably priced with Gaja. And equally world-class.<br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></span>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-to6i3xkRCJw/WmTURwCJWeI/AAAAAAAAyNY/Ztb5jgcjmBcIzgrNRDWcRze4btpSvQ-pgCLcBGAs/s1600/barbaresco%2Bfaset%2B1.1.jpg" style="font-family: times; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="508" data-original-width="708" height="286" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-to6i3xkRCJw/WmTURwCJWeI/AAAAAAAAyNY/Ztb5jgcjmBcIzgrNRDWcRze4btpSvQ-pgCLcBGAs/s400/barbaresco%2Bfaset%2B1.1.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: times;">
From Armando de Rham, we had the wines of Pietro Berutti, La Spinona. His 1975 Barbaresco, Bricco Faset Riserva, we could sell for considerably less than what we bought the Gaja or the Giacosa for. I thought of them as entry-level for the hard-liners, who still hadn’t bought into the égalité mantra. And we had older vintages, including magnums of the 1971 Riserva, that we could sell to the trade for $50! Mind you, I had yet to step on soil in Piedmont. But I was getting the fever, real fast.<br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br />
When I did go, in the Spring of 1984, it was unlike anything I had ever seen in my earlier trip to Italy. Yes, I’d been to Tuscany and spent a bit of time there, as well as Rome and southern Italy. But there was something familiar about this place, Barbaresco, as if I had a memory of the place. Even though I hadn’t ever been there until 1984.<br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br />
So here I was, on a little road that leads into the town, surrounded by localities and vineyards with names like Asili, Moccagatta and Rabaja. I was hooked. I remember taking a walk into town, needing to stretch my legs after a long lunch. I walked into the center of the town and saw the tower, the church and a winery, Produttori del Barbaresco. I walked inside where there was a counter and what looked like a provisional tasting setup. Most of the folks were home at lunch, or napping, and my cohort, an Italian, indicated that we could taste on our own, that the folks here wouldn’t mind. That was Barbaresco in 1984 - sleepy, without pretension, innocent. Wonderful. I still dream about that day.<br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></span>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-751CbpJ3DLE/WmTRYizEBQI/AAAAAAAAyM8/1ETdF3Dg7KI19u5zFpTuWxrEbgkbVQ_aACLcBGAs/s1600/P1040134_Barbaresco%2Blooking%2Bfrom%2Bthe%2Btop%2Bof%2Bthe%2Btower.jpg" style="font-family: times; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="576" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-751CbpJ3DLE/WmTRYizEBQI/AAAAAAAAyM8/1ETdF3Dg7KI19u5zFpTuWxrEbgkbVQ_aACLcBGAs/s400/P1040134_Barbaresco%2Blooking%2Bfrom%2Bthe%2Btop%2Bof%2Bthe%2Btower.jpg" width="191" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: times;">
And my love affair with Barbaresco blossomed.<br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br />
I came home and proceeded over the years to represent any number of producers. But those four – Gaja, Giacosa, La Spinona and Produttori – set my heart in the direction of this little village. Barbaresco is my Mecca. I am unabashedly as head over heels about the place, the people and the wines, as I was when I first walked into it in 1984. I still recognize the place from my youth. Who can say that about one’s home town, or any number of places on the wine trail? Napa? The Napa Valley I first met in the early 1970’s only exists in my memories. Bordeaux? Have you been there lately? It’s all grown up. But there’s something about Barbaresco that still retains that small-town feeling, that feeling that the world, while it has changed hasn’t gone inexorably off the cliff, like so many places on earth seem, these days.<br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br />
And the wines. <br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br />
Since those early days, I’ve developed business and personal relationships with wineries like Produttori del Barbaresco, Giuseppe Cortese, Marchesi di Grésy, La Ca Nova, Ceretto, Bruno Rocca and Carlo Boffa. I’m nowhere near the expert on the subject. But Barbaresco has a lifelong grip on me. I have an almost embarrassing overabundance of Barbaresco in my personal stockpile, to the detriment of other Italian wines, and without regards to maintaining a proper balance in such matters. But in affairs of the heart, whenever has balance been the key factor?<br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></span>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QYYQqBmsmxM/WmTaaIS95qI/AAAAAAAAyNo/S5mxkmW6aWws1CpjGIZKIRNDR6Q2Ef1DACLcBGAs/s1600/door%2Bin%2Bbarbaresco.jpg" style="font-family: times; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="811" data-original-width="643" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QYYQqBmsmxM/WmTaaIS95qI/AAAAAAAAyNo/S5mxkmW6aWws1CpjGIZKIRNDR6Q2Ef1DACLcBGAs/s320/door%2Bin%2Bbarbaresco.jpg" width="253" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: times;">
One thing is certain – I’ll always know where I left my heart – if ever I should wonder.<br /></span></span>
<span style="color: blue; font-family: times; font-size: large;">In memory of <a href="https://acevola.blogspot.com/2016/12/bruno-giacosa-retrospective-life-in-wine.html" target="_blank">Bruno Giacosa</a> - Buon Anima</span><span style="font-family: times;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span><br /></span>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>Further <strike>reading</strike> listening - <a href="https://soundcloud.com/leviopenswine/aldovacca" target="_blank">Aldo Vacca on Barbaresco</a> [Highly Recommended]</i></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nQaHo95JQO4/WmTScjB_U2I/AAAAAAAAyNE/fokwIcnXeWoNf0_Df7l-CTBsSfTLaF-0ACLcBGAs/s1600/AMC_4042_Aldo%2BVacca%2BBarbaresco.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="769" data-original-width="1152" height="213" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nQaHo95JQO4/WmTScjB_U2I/AAAAAAAAyNE/fokwIcnXeWoNf0_Df7l-CTBsSfTLaF-0ACLcBGAs/s320/AMC_4042_Aldo%2BVacca%2BBarbaresco.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="by-line">
<span style="font-size: small;">written by <a href="http://www.blogger.com/profile/16983431475848714789">Alfonso Cevola</a></span><span style="font-size: small;"> limited rights reserved <a href="http://acevola.blogspot.com/">On the Wine Trail in Italy</a></span> </div>
<div style="color: white;">
wine blog + Italian wine blog + Italy W</div>
Alfonso Cevolahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16983431475848714789noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20283310.post-34287100179568485522024-01-21T07:22:00.003-06:002024-01-21T08:34:33.076-06:00Embracing Classic Italian Wine While Becoming Your Authentic Self<p class="MsoNormal"><i><span style="color: #767171; font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; mso-themecolor: background2; mso-themeshade: 128;">ed. note: Alfonso
is out on medical leave and he is letting one of the young’uns take the reins
of the blog until he comes back.</span></i></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-A48Sfvgv4NfCUl77RmvMNr9ZjDkTmFWlGkaNTciMmP2HGzXnCfXnr7bnk5NHOgESS5OIoMpfCPxt88KwqX52w1YVlEXLLa6zQ_ZXjW0sbktmx4XK085rEz31Q3Gte8OdYWJcYW_wY4izCuZ9Qz8pQDBXvKbFgn324AnkXYiISbayfHvi8iwe/s1859/DSC_1459%20copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1260" data-original-width="1859" height="271" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-A48Sfvgv4NfCUl77RmvMNr9ZjDkTmFWlGkaNTciMmP2HGzXnCfXnr7bnk5NHOgESS5OIoMpfCPxt88KwqX52w1YVlEXLLa6zQ_ZXjW0sbktmx4XK085rEz31Q3Gte8OdYWJcYW_wY4izCuZ9Qz8pQDBXvKbFgn324AnkXYiISbayfHvi8iwe/w400-h271/DSC_1459%20copy.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 24pt; line-height: 107%;">W</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">hat a kick, it’s 2024! If not now,
when? I will make this the year I become the most authentic me I can be. I will
curate myself to a more genuine person. And along with that I will embrace
classic Italian wine culture. No more orange wine, no more col fondo. Arrivederci,
Etna. Hello Tuscany!</span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">Yes, this will be the year, for me, when we go all <i>resto-mod</i>
with Italian wine. I want to embrace the tried and true, not the trite and
banal fashion imperatives of my ever so <i>au courant</i> contingent. I’m
stoked! 2024 is gonna be such a bitchin’ ride! It’ll be the most <i>sui
generous</i> saga I’ve been looking to broker, all my short-lived life - I’m
ready and raring to go!! On my way to being an epic polyhistor!!</span></p><a name='more'></a><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgkY4pjiDMYM2Iw1h86RAjkdy0O8YtSMC2UvHmTcxaZLjBzdCXSKpASywCrjkC3x1EynK_ztGBQHD9to1ykO5yp1DkVYkVch0dnEl6RuNMwCUFfXYw4yFzy-EtFNVyLO7EGbjeDa_pq4QrByWFMcUyyUkQHEY8tmYHX-GHJhCh4J_zjdX3nX5-/s1860/DSC_1464%20copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1260" data-original-width="1860" height="271" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgkY4pjiDMYM2Iw1h86RAjkdy0O8YtSMC2UvHmTcxaZLjBzdCXSKpASywCrjkC3x1EynK_ztGBQHD9to1ykO5yp1DkVYkVch0dnEl6RuNMwCUFfXYw4yFzy-EtFNVyLO7EGbjeDa_pq4QrByWFMcUyyUkQHEY8tmYHX-GHJhCh4J_zjdX3nX5-/w400-h271/DSC_1464%20copy.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><br />I will start, like I said, in Tuscany, and figure I
can conquer Chianti, Brunello and Super Tuscans in a few weeks. Purple reign! Then
I will “move on up” to Piedmont and give it a month, to audit all the necessary
appellations, from Barolo to Barbaresco to Gattinara. I’m sure I can absorb all
I need to know to become a classic guy – a Classic-Gaia kind of guy.</span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">I got my CMS and IWA back home during Covid, so I am
well qualified to reach into my inner depths of intellectual pursuit to be able
to show you the best me I can be when it comes to Italian wine. In fact, I’ll
do you one even further – I will be the youngest James Suckling/Ian
D’Agata/Antonio Galloni in Italian history. I will out science Dr. Scienza and
out wine Dr. Wine – this is my solemn promise to my world, who expects none the
less from me. I can do this! I will do this! In fact, in my head I’m already
there. Est! Est!! Est!!!</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">All I need to do is to get my passport, as soon as my
probation ends. Count on it – Consider it done! I will embrace all things
classic in the world of Italian wine and wine expertise. Cin! Cin!! Cin!!! </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7ze6JH3OQaeg4j6z9rHmguLzWDxZlddg42STO1ImDMDYVwBe6fxlxdk1gt5UiaqEqVzGx2mLnA96qmtThrp7Sld3_QgexbOGMF4OguRtr00QVOVoVIB0yErqWUrDqNl_vO-vQWe8vGlGmWNrdJrADOgcc0wOpUTXU1v-Dxt8KPDsMpa5Z2eAz/s1861/DSC_1347%20copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1260" data-original-width="1861" height="271" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7ze6JH3OQaeg4j6z9rHmguLzWDxZlddg42STO1ImDMDYVwBe6fxlxdk1gt5UiaqEqVzGx2mLnA96qmtThrp7Sld3_QgexbOGMF4OguRtr00QVOVoVIB0yErqWUrDqNl_vO-vQWe8vGlGmWNrdJrADOgcc0wOpUTXU1v-Dxt8KPDsMpa5Z2eAz/w400-h271/DSC_1347%20copy.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><br />What a kick!!!</span><p></p>
<div class="by-line"><span style="font-size: small;"> </span></div><div class="by-line"><span style="font-size: small;">© by <a href="http://www.blogger.com/profile/16983431475848714789">Alfonso Cevola</a></span><span style="font-size: small;"> limited rights reserved <a href="http://acevola.blogspot.com/">On the Wine Trail in Italy</a></span> </div>
<div style="color: white;">
wine blog + Italian wine blog + Italy W</div>
Alfonso Cevolahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16983431475848714789noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20283310.post-70058937967862153072024-01-14T09:13:00.007-06:002024-01-15T16:13:07.384-06:00Making Sense of Today’s Italian Wine Lists<i><span style="color: #666666;">"Everything that is done in the world is done by hope." - Martin Luther
</span></i><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 22pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 22pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgywCj8yVS-cb-pTqC-x-WlQg1E5G97feJf3q2WJVXeNMcnhyphenhyphenn4ZrS3YkmiFbCEhBhazAZdU1DsDM2iljqrm6lsHA_l6EFgvOHnATcKtI7OmR88VimrbyvtUMJn9XxddqcTcd00wcYYH7tu7LAfKFkWfEFM35IxY6hFF9GldewaUno08sqmaDlB/s1835/DSC_4537%20wine%20flask.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="1259" data-original-width="1835" height="275" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgywCj8yVS-cb-pTqC-x-WlQg1E5G97feJf3q2WJVXeNMcnhyphenhyphenn4ZrS3YkmiFbCEhBhazAZdU1DsDM2iljqrm6lsHA_l6EFgvOHnATcKtI7OmR88VimrbyvtUMJn9XxddqcTcd00wcYYH7tu7LAfKFkWfEFM35IxY6hFF9GldewaUno08sqmaDlB/w400-h275/DSC_4537%20wine%20flask.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 22pt; line-height: 107%;">I’</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">ve been checking out some of the new
Italian spots in my region, as this area, North Texas, has become one of the
most dynamic economic sections of the country. And with commercial development
and growth comes the hope of diversity in the new restaurants that have been
opening up lately. Further down the rabbit hole, though, is the discussion of
what an all-Italian wine list should look like. And because my recent forays in
town have offered up a plethora of new choices in Italian wine lists, my quest
for the optimally curated wine list is what this post is all about. So, let’s
dig in.<span><a name='more'></a></span></span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_bP537WXXEXuXgKWzyfKFg5i8bYAR5R9iZsmtCO4xLTGIaH9rah4pRxOhDVxhaZwy6FxdloZIsv4tLJiXr2sXj-BUw46SJwPJS36LSX_BnG6O-GphY3aIxYM1wlUe3CmJmkStjbFpqakxvW3jDWt3dYMhVc0xKl9zqcnOnPmIl02ZyvdjFUVx/s666/pre%20phylox%20barbera.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="666" data-original-width="666" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_bP537WXXEXuXgKWzyfKFg5i8bYAR5R9iZsmtCO4xLTGIaH9rah4pRxOhDVxhaZwy6FxdloZIsv4tLJiXr2sXj-BUw46SJwPJS36LSX_BnG6O-GphY3aIxYM1wlUe3CmJmkStjbFpqakxvW3jDWt3dYMhVc0xKl9zqcnOnPmIl02ZyvdjFUVx/s320/pre%20phylox%20barbera.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><br />20 or more years ago, to find an all-Italian wine list
in this region was liking finding the Holy Grail – they were that rare. Fortunately,
the rise of small distributors who have broken the spell of the behemoths who
control the majority of the wines sold and presented, have opened the
floodgates to micro producers from all persuasions. And while some of this
might seem a little Babel-like to traditionalists, let’s face it: every
generation will seek to re-invent everything, from sex and love to food and wine.
Mainly because, to them, everything is new and untested. So, why not?</span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">One of the compelling things I am witnessing is the
emergence of small producers from traditional areas like the Langhe and
Tuscany, but making wine not like their father (or mother) did. I’ve listened to
fathers and sons hotly debate style in Montalcino, and daughters and their
aunts in Barolo get worked up over supplied yeasts vs. naturally occurring ones
in their winemaking regimes. It’s been wonderful to witness, as the scrum of
family working through their personal evolution of winemaking philosophy has been
an active and lively one – just like the Italians are known to be. So, in
short, it’s working like it should be, in the vineyards and in the wineries.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5XC9cy5fc-iYFoEeIqYvDbBPX2PNjz0MIcjnwRnTWHlrUIqdQpRNJua-HjekeyYEsAF3QDpRFhJdUSZLhfqgJ6oHDRB8yo2G2D8WsmQiFr_UIbiOB37bOMLadxnX9zeI4m7oqUEaqMIbVX4gtunZ8VQdLEgZC50Wrfts-DDYBYnv2XOn9vHxl/s1800/SAM_4382%20gelato%20trio%201a.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1800" data-original-width="1800" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5XC9cy5fc-iYFoEeIqYvDbBPX2PNjz0MIcjnwRnTWHlrUIqdQpRNJua-HjekeyYEsAF3QDpRFhJdUSZLhfqgJ6oHDRB8yo2G2D8WsmQiFr_UIbiOB37bOMLadxnX9zeI4m7oqUEaqMIbVX4gtunZ8VQdLEgZC50Wrfts-DDYBYnv2XOn9vHxl/s320/SAM_4382%20gelato%20trio%201a.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">At the end-user stage, and in this case we’re talking restaurants,
the presented wine list also embodies the philosophy of the owner or the beverage
director, or both if they be separate entities. However the assignments have
been defined, the end results of late are showing the effects of the work back
in Italy. Now we are seeing Nebbiolo not just as Barolo or Barbaresco, or
Sangiovese not just as Chianti or Brunello (or Nobile) but we are seeing an
expansion of the category by the winemaker which allows the restaurateur to
more intricately steward a collection that can be more personal, more intimate
and more in keeping with the food presented. Now, not all efforts produce
stunning results. But the attempt to provide novel expressions of <i>Italianità
</i>in the hinterlands of America is something I never thought I’d see,
regardless of the final outcome. So, I’d say at the very least, we’ve been able
to witness evolution in real time. To me, that is a minor miracle.</span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">Years ago, at the local health food store in Southern
California where I shopped, I once saw these sandals for sale. They had the
unusual name of Birkenstock, and they looked comfy and cool in a crunchy kinda
way. So, I shelled out $30 for a pair and started wearing them.</span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidIAgTHzhtTU1NW4rdok6DMLsmVYuBspZ7TTsLesFjnM65_BqDCiZcdk2GbvARgGqH58a9KgPXMc4slA2NWH-CqaOxSV253s91cqR6s5YpwOKKcvEo7WGNeZVOm7esacuweM9UZjWt7huAgy8zap3efqxFPNPwk_wM2yWY0uu70ELUgz87g3jO/s1800/work%20boots%20in%20boca%20copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1800" data-original-width="1800" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidIAgTHzhtTU1NW4rdok6DMLsmVYuBspZ7TTsLesFjnM65_BqDCiZcdk2GbvARgGqH58a9KgPXMc4slA2NWH-CqaOxSV253s91cqR6s5YpwOKKcvEo7WGNeZVOm7esacuweM9UZjWt7huAgy8zap3efqxFPNPwk_wM2yWY0uu70ELUgz87g3jO/s320/work%20boots%20in%20boca%20copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">After six months or so, I noticed the rubber soles
were wearing out, so I went back to the store. Next to the shoes were
replacement soles, for little money, maybe $3. I bought a pair and repaired my
shoes with the new replacement soles. It was easy. I mean, after all, my family
were in the shoe repair business, although the Birkenstocks were probably not
the shoes my dad and grandfather envisioned their son and grandson wearing.
Nonetheless, that was the evolution of our family <i>micro-Italianità</i>. I
say this because so many of us, as we age into late adulthood, think things are
static and non-changeable. But everything is in flux, in motion, and change is
all about us all the time. Just something to think of when the wine steward
pitches you a petillant murky, sour wine from Emilia-Romagna with unbounded
enthusiasm. Just give it a taste, you only live once. Right?</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">Back when the crust of the earth was cooling and $20
was my sweet spot on a wine list, as I was just getting into the wine trade, I noticed
there would always be a wine on the list I could find that seemed like it was
put there for folks like me. Maybe it was a Quincy, on a list with untouchable
Montrachet’s. Or it was a Vino Nobile amongst the Sassicaia’s and Tignanello’s,
which were obviously there for the well-heeled clientele. In any event, we
always found something there, in whatever price range, that would feed our need
for something delicious that would make us feel posh. <br /></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYoGp1JK_GUTqUKpCQKqes-7nVWA8U_IyuVa-hGlXJ8Zb9eXYIAYgLhQ7EI6J6hmJXQS9THgFUiTYvLNcEB7OPpbMuFSV9psmcZcr9zuKSRHiTTSlytw0FdHoRajh1muE8J-DvZWViHM0cg7aFp2kWZuMGy201BVakx5_1aCKIG6IgnBhGirva/s1800/modern%20version%20of%20vitello%20tonnato%20copy.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1800" data-original-width="1800" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYoGp1JK_GUTqUKpCQKqes-7nVWA8U_IyuVa-hGlXJ8Zb9eXYIAYgLhQ7EI6J6hmJXQS9THgFUiTYvLNcEB7OPpbMuFSV9psmcZcr9zuKSRHiTTSlytw0FdHoRajh1muE8J-DvZWViHM0cg7aFp2kWZuMGy201BVakx5_1aCKIG6IgnBhGirva/s320/modern%20version%20of%20vitello%20tonnato%20copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="color: #666666;">Deconstructed vitello tonnato, anyone?</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">Nowadays, Italian wine is rife with choice and style. You
can go swank and bougie, or crunchy and fuggy. Or meet in the middle, fringe
class style. Like ‘em slick? Italian wine has ‘em. Want it rough-cut? It’s
there too, all for the asking. And wine lists today are showcasing the
different styles better than they’ve ever been. It’s like being a kid in a
candy store. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">You want something from the hills outside Rome, from
Lazio? You’re not going to have to settle for a supermarket Frascati anymore.
Looking for a Corvina based wine from the Veneto that isn’t your typical Dallas <i>thirty
thousandaire </i>Amarone? Now’s your time, because there are all sorts of
wonderful reds from Valpolicella out there. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">Hate Prosecco because it is too sweet and insipid, too
overtly commercial and ubiquitous? Well, there’s an unfiltered <i>col fondo</i>
just waiting to make friends with you and show you that your journey isn’t all
for nought. I’m serious, it’s all here more than it has ever been. The Italian
wine trade has freaked it in the 21<sup>st</sup> century, and there’s more
coming. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">So, get out there, see from a different perspective and test drive some of the
free-range Italian wine lists that are currently cropping up. Stay up - learn things!</span><span style="font-size: small;"> <br /></span></p><div class="by-line"><span style="font-size: small;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5sft42Y4TodvVZOayUy_7pkcg-PEJE0czdcX3O43HGLrD_iRRs-ZGuh7B0qIo-hFTG5MdlPsuQydns60iCqJ7Lb0toRIxHrOY6hyojuXSqJfyGKYJpBa_xWqvZBr4_alBDuQoplIjlsnxBEZ6890KF9s_bJg7eWhkJWThZZuikFu2Wm6Jun7Z/s1800/DSC_4915%20mirror%201a.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1800" data-original-width="1800" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5sft42Y4TodvVZOayUy_7pkcg-PEJE0czdcX3O43HGLrD_iRRs-ZGuh7B0qIo-hFTG5MdlPsuQydns60iCqJ7Lb0toRIxHrOY6hyojuXSqJfyGKYJpBa_xWqvZBr4_alBDuQoplIjlsnxBEZ6890KF9s_bJg7eWhkJWThZZuikFu2Wm6Jun7Z/s320/DSC_4915%20mirror%201a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /></span></div><div class="by-line"><span style="font-size: small;"> </span></div><div class="by-line"><span style="font-size: small;">© written and photographed by <a href="http://www.blogger.com/profile/16983431475848714789">Alfonso Cevola</a></span><span style="font-size: small;"> limited rights reserved <a href="http://acevola.blogspot.com/">On the Wine Trail in Italy</a></span> </div>
<div style="color: white;">
wine blog + Italian wine blog + Italy W</div>
Alfonso Cevolahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16983431475848714789noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20283310.post-36365725407697773322024-01-07T10:02:00.003-06:002024-01-11T16:38:40.283-06:00The Small, Small, Small, Small World of Italian Wine <p class="MsoNormal"><i><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;">“Compared to what?” </span></i></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 22pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 22pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuBorDDSdH6jCBA_lFwUyZVvMBjlGfuK8D3a-Q0OS6-9lz13cVkQUvBRD65AunW596xJ9U1YjAwsuqFCNuiSIyh0Cw9L7c_TDXJ8OtpirpdsBtCT39dFj1AB5GR54h_kpLeKPJXNfQiG85MD050EPpuFNCq7zcce3A2CkEKESRXTiPJ2WN25kn/s4572/AMC_0469.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3048" data-original-width="4572" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuBorDDSdH6jCBA_lFwUyZVvMBjlGfuK8D3a-Q0OS6-9lz13cVkQUvBRD65AunW596xJ9U1YjAwsuqFCNuiSIyh0Cw9L7c_TDXJ8OtpirpdsBtCT39dFj1AB5GR54h_kpLeKPJXNfQiG85MD050EPpuFNCq7zcce3A2CkEKESRXTiPJ2WN25kn/w429-h285/AMC_0469.JPG" width="429" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 22pt; line-height: 107%;">T</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">he land mass of Italy figures out to
be 0.2% of the world, similar to Poland, Ecuador, New Zealand and Vietnam. In regards
to wine production, though, Italy is often the largest producer, occasionally
swapping with France, depending on the harvest. How such a small land mass
became to account for such a large amount of wine production is a fascinating
thought. The reality, is that Italy, like France and a few other select areas
of the world, is uniquely situated to produce large amounts of fine wine. A
miracle one might even say. However, that miracle took a long time to create
and it was not without its share of purgatorial tribulations.</span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Still, as one observes today on the social media
platforms, one might think it to be one giant movable feast. The young
generation who’ve inherited it from this point surely make it out to be a
well-tanned cake walk, with the commensurate high-toned tastings in exotic
places from Bangkok to Miami. Along with that, the four and five star stays at
hotels in fascinating spots like Dubai and Singapore, poolside moments notwithstanding,
as well as sumptuous dining experiences at all hours of the day and night. One
might think the essence of Italian wine was just one long glamorous ride on a magic
red carpet, like something out of One Thousand and One Nights. Were that it was
as simple as that. <span></span></span></p><a name='more'></a><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKahrXl0Vn4qHEytjxh_BVHteVpS5mlYTnAdaX4z0AFmRnECEiOHr5VFItIkfQ6Uh5KDfKTShRdMBUjrAP2rBMnWKse2vH88p7Aq8kc2VVl535kdODPyo85IVf_egaM0Ajt5efT3cwCloRRVkMlxApKg1rv3bDJF44POGX-2cLXac1Y1dIL4xL/s2379/P1050667.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1328" data-original-width="2379" height="224" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKahrXl0Vn4qHEytjxh_BVHteVpS5mlYTnAdaX4z0AFmRnECEiOHr5VFItIkfQ6Uh5KDfKTShRdMBUjrAP2rBMnWKse2vH88p7Aq8kc2VVl535kdODPyo85IVf_egaM0Ajt5efT3cwCloRRVkMlxApKg1rv3bDJF44POGX-2cLXac1Y1dIL4xL/w400-h224/P1050667.JPG" width="400" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br />It's like watching someone drive up to the valet in Houston
or Los Angeles in a Ferrari or a Lamborghini and imagine that is the epitome of
the Italian car tableau, the end all and the be all of it. And for those in the
pits, they know that ain’t so. So it is, as well, in the Italian wine
landscape. There’s a hell of a lot more blood sweat and tears than foie gras and
Franciacorta. In the field, a Defender is a work vehicle, not a totem for
status. And a <i>filone</i> and a carafe of the new wine is more likely to feed
the body than will a deconstructed savory cannolo and a quartino of orange wine,
employed to feed the ego in some far-flung destination touted on TikTok.</span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">The actuality is that it took a long time and a lot of
hungry souls to get Italian wine to the place it is today, and even though it
is a small world, it has taken, and will continue to take, an army of committed
individuals to keep the continuation propelling into the future. Which means some of the children on the
beaches of Phuket and the Maldives might have to come back home and get a
little more dirt under their nails. Why?</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCj9ppIv-n3PBdQoXrCIDgo4nXmRLWT2NuMMM6mCTpBMGvECHyl5C5AqlvYYi6XM7MtaugrBf0HorWVvs5M-55mg3wXfn2Tqlj_UmoCS4fZFH5VJ6vd6ld_7_jVAle8un2aULwsSfvx_VjXCMwisHuZEgrDn8ZGPlbXu_jxaOjMsh1FFXTuXWM/s864/milan%20kinetic%20graffiti%20jan2024.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="864" data-original-width="864" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCj9ppIv-n3PBdQoXrCIDgo4nXmRLWT2NuMMM6mCTpBMGvECHyl5C5AqlvYYi6XM7MtaugrBf0HorWVvs5M-55mg3wXfn2Tqlj_UmoCS4fZFH5VJ6vd6ld_7_jVAle8un2aULwsSfvx_VjXCMwisHuZEgrDn8ZGPlbXu_jxaOjMsh1FFXTuXWM/s320/milan%20kinetic%20graffiti%20jan2024.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br />Let’s just say AI. Or in wine terms, China. Just as we’ve
seen in fashion and vehicles, the competition to create a dominant bedrock for
a market is not a static thing. The urge to be better, to be number one, is a human
craving, not the sole possession of any one culture - not the French, not the
Italians, not the Americans. The whole world is plugged in now, and they want
their shot at the brass ring. We’ve already seen it in technology, and with the
effects of global climate change, the conditions that make Italy (or France) so
unique for wine production can, sooner or later, exist elsewhere. And the loom
on which that future lore will be woven is more easily achieved in that kind of
future in which we are heading.</span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">A friend of mine frequently reminds me the Rome fell because
they essentially ran out of money. The economy stupid. Well, it doesn’t take a
genius to look at Western countries, like Italy, and their enormous debt linked
with the unequal distribution of wealth, to know that those Cartier and Botox bedecked
princesses lying on tanning mats in Abu Dhabi while sipping on Bollinger RD is
not a recipe for sustainability of supremacy. But hey, don’t take it from a
plebe. Just wait and see, because the fire-storm is coming. Get your fiddles
ready.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Time and chance are unlimited to all. It's a small
world, and it’s getting smaller.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitpYImfCXdXAfGY2pYS2p90-U0ICyacC491xpNQ9f-VOz3dlKKQ0aBWDy7uvP-mZgMWUiQzKQmbjGVIoyWB5LACyvx523MI26oyohB9ZbO_LWXaDWQgRGsSxzcwq_fJdoEZKDiP2C3ZYHPeNOODnjXUdOKf6E_-PQHjH71kRpsk0SzUujcSq1s/s614/go%20up.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="614" data-original-width="614" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitpYImfCXdXAfGY2pYS2p90-U0ICyacC491xpNQ9f-VOz3dlKKQ0aBWDy7uvP-mZgMWUiQzKQmbjGVIoyWB5LACyvx523MI26oyohB9ZbO_LWXaDWQgRGsSxzcwq_fJdoEZKDiP2C3ZYHPeNOODnjXUdOKf6E_-PQHjH71kRpsk0SzUujcSq1s/s320/go%20up.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"> <br /></span><p></p>
<div class="by-line"><span style="font-size: small;"> </span></div><div class="by-line"><span style="font-size: small;">© written and photographed by <a href="http://www.blogger.com/profile/16983431475848714789">Alfonso Cevola</a></span><span style="font-size: small;"> limited rights reserved <a href="http://acevola.blogspot.com/">On the Wine Trail in Italy</a></span> </div>
<div style="color: white;">
wine blog + Italian wine blog + Italy W</div>
Alfonso Cevolahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16983431475848714789noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20283310.post-79549836767237775622023-12-31T13:36:00.002-06:002023-12-31T13:57:02.863-06:00Walking on Frozen Water<i>“When life is sweet, say thank you and celebrate. When life is bitter, say thank you and grow.”
— Shauna Niequist
</i><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 22pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 22pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjasYcVhl8ZJZeWfGy5_NqAEcWONbUV1vEX5-DcKnMeVHtISAsPQpE9VkiUHtM8cflZ6ye4NSoyQErV2K7472g-2-F2HQJ8Qk9GMKzNxXrSN-w7I4PVGiXbk9x6mm-hjeNQ4lUN2uXt_e_0uKGyg3pIDzGUDvZE_RMoL9EUdlEfrFrrRJgg2vi3/s3888/aP1130327.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3888" data-original-width="3888" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjasYcVhl8ZJZeWfGy5_NqAEcWONbUV1vEX5-DcKnMeVHtISAsPQpE9VkiUHtM8cflZ6ye4NSoyQErV2K7472g-2-F2HQJ8Qk9GMKzNxXrSN-w7I4PVGiXbk9x6mm-hjeNQ4lUN2uXt_e_0uKGyg3pIDzGUDvZE_RMoL9EUdlEfrFrrRJgg2vi3/s320/aP1130327.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 22pt; line-height: 107%;">O</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">ften, I sit down at the desk here and
just start typing, as I am doing now. And then the words appear, maybe making
sense, and sometimes not so much. After eighteen years doing this, at least
once a week, often more, I’m resigned to seeing where it takes me, and you, if
you’re still with me.</span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">About 85% of you will not make it to this sentence and
new paragraph. So, it goes. We want it in small bites, and we want the punch,
the energy and the electricity right from the get-go. No time to waste. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">Knowing more acutely about that aspect of time at this
point in life, I empathize. There is precious little to waste.<span></span></span></p><a name='more'></a><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWcUno2EzTuMsAiBxbRQV9VHytYVgrEuMKfYVwxWbm522NzMafG-68pMlfHjg8SHwc2J4MrJWBOvPVkAYfWZuYjyHFbgc7-pREyC4bMSvbe73VVNhfmn8g_CXYXvp4g4CQDV0RY868gsgmW6dtGoMcmsqfktfJ07sc4Lm29v37R1yFSMYXGxHg/s3888/P1130330.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3888" data-original-width="3888" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWcUno2EzTuMsAiBxbRQV9VHytYVgrEuMKfYVwxWbm522NzMafG-68pMlfHjg8SHwc2J4MrJWBOvPVkAYfWZuYjyHFbgc7-pREyC4bMSvbe73VVNhfmn8g_CXYXvp4g4CQDV0RY868gsgmW6dtGoMcmsqfktfJ07sc4Lm29v37R1yFSMYXGxHg/s320/P1130330.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><br />What will 2024 bring on the wine trail in Italy? I
have no idea. I know there will be some early physical challenges to be
overcome next year. That kind of goes with the territory of the elders. Does my
voice have any bearing in the world of Italian wine? At this point, if I haven’t
already done and said what I was going to do and say, I’d hope that whatever
aftertaste I leave in the mind of the reader will be a light one. Soft and
trailing off into the sunset, a dessert wine, a Moscato passito from Sicily
perhaps. That would be fine with me.</span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">I was looking at one the other day in the wine shop
that I go to – it was from Pantelleria, an island I spent time on and loved
dearly. Great memories, even if some of them were profoundly sad, made that way
by grief and loss. But the sweetness of the wine, as I remember, offered
solace. So, perhaps, in 2024, maybe my voice can assuage that around me, and
that which occasionally pulls up to these pages. It is a hope of mine. Dare I
say it is one of my resolutions for the new year? I would if I did such things.
In any event, it’s on the punch list.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikUPlYEgeaNY4UoWM8_zHJFsVthX_GnV1A9XtM0Srd0WiRZ7M75Mq-5BG-GtDasW9vvTwIptPciSMIMxWTgFjkNW4BbSS1qCErmXzHk77lfLMayI9Zo5Y4nQngYGE1asy6zeEB1DDYdZIuTuOMbgNn-48P7IbBoopqykSSE0PGiBhy2aIpD2rS/s1222/P1130331.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1222" data-original-width="1222" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikUPlYEgeaNY4UoWM8_zHJFsVthX_GnV1A9XtM0Srd0WiRZ7M75Mq-5BG-GtDasW9vvTwIptPciSMIMxWTgFjkNW4BbSS1qCErmXzHk77lfLMayI9Zo5Y4nQngYGE1asy6zeEB1DDYdZIuTuOMbgNn-48P7IbBoopqykSSE0PGiBhy2aIpD2rS/s320/P1130331.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><br />One of the things I want to focus on, with regards to
wine and writing about it, is not so much how it tastes and what a great time
I’m having with whatever magnificent bottle is in front of me. Rather, how it
embeds itself into the greater picture of life, and a life that is looking more
for peace and tranquility than one mired in chaos and upheaval. Girding our
loins for this new year, there will be plenty of that from the souls who feed
on such impulses. Feeling more alive among disruption seems to be a dominant
dystopian trope in these times. But at this point in my life, I’ve seen as bad,
maybe even worse, in previous eras. We will either get through it – or we
won’t. It’s, more or less, out of our hands.</span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">One of the things I want to grapple more with in 2024
is the level of seriousness we seem to take ourselves when we are in present
moment situations. I know that when I was working full time, that work took up
a lot of mental and psychic energy, not to mention the physicality that went along
with it during some of those times. I was all in, which wasn’t such a bad thing.
But now I look at folks who are all in, and I wonder if that is really why we
are here. Of course, I could turn that right back at me and ask myself if where
I am now, my “all in-ness” is any less ludicrous than those who are in the work
place and earning their way. There is this future me, somewhere 5-10-15 years
from now, looking back and wondering why I am doing what I am doing now. Could
I be engaged otherwise? Should I be volunteering? Should I read more? Should I
finally get my photographic archives sorted out, so that sometime after I am
long gone, there might be a story about a time, with images galore, that could
help clarify this time and why it turned out the way it did? Am I walking on
frozen water, not knowing if the surface will hold the weight? Does that
matter?</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><i style="color: #666666;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEF_eirNqsBttndHxjlo_fUupJx7yNXyjBlS-8yfPv2omi3DVWcWWskbT3FSu4oTHYIXTjknOWpaZOMWUw8ZNkmzZWpylP4Q30wJupgaCyEBGJntCwOKR1m2vzX4S6Ebi4MXSIB4dLyhoiYT1v3MzsbrogNb_MBkKy3YOItfWgNV1XcDv-m4vp/s2048/2023-yip-july-07-bhzc-superJumbo.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1365" data-original-width="2048" height="276" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEF_eirNqsBttndHxjlo_fUupJx7yNXyjBlS-8yfPv2omi3DVWcWWskbT3FSu4oTHYIXTjknOWpaZOMWUw8ZNkmzZWpylP4Q30wJupgaCyEBGJntCwOKR1m2vzX4S6Ebi4MXSIB4dLyhoiYT1v3MzsbrogNb_MBkKy3YOItfWgNV1XcDv-m4vp/w415-h276/2023-yip-july-07-bhzc-superJumbo.jpg" width="415" /></a></span></i></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #666666;"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Ukraine, July 26: The body of a Russian soldier in the Zaporizhzhia <br />region, where Ukraine was waging a counteroffensive. <a href="https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2023/world/year-in-pictures.html#july" target="_blank">@tylerhicksphoto</a></span></i></span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><br />The departed soldier in the photo above (<i>getting</i> <i>my vote for<a href="https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2023/world/year-in-pictures.html" target="_blank"> photo of the year</a></i>), in a way, tells
the story of all of us these past few years. We’ve been plowed under by the
weight of events that have passed over us. How we decide to persevere and pivot
under such overwhelming odds is up to each and every one of us, individually. For
better or worse, I’ve inherited a survival mechanism that has taken me thus
far. I imagine it taking me further, or so my future me tells me. What I plan
to do between now and then is what is left of my journey on this pretty little
orb. </span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">Happy New Year to all y’all. See you in 2024. Warm wishes and marshmallow kisses!<br /></span></p>
<div class="by-line"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv0bzPAIUH3JyW2xNHY4ve54xr0S8VZg81XK6drqcqzPbCWk1Xc4nR16rGH06maaCPc2wzm_EpguEeqnohwQsakVbYH2XuxVXaMmqJP0UFpJxD_EkQJuxvk7SDwQYEzIw1G4FlcGcNXSew5QnA91OqlH6yqAABZV-mJnyzYjUHSkKcsTMriOAi/s1221/P1130332.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1221" data-original-width="1221" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv0bzPAIUH3JyW2xNHY4ve54xr0S8VZg81XK6drqcqzPbCWk1Xc4nR16rGH06maaCPc2wzm_EpguEeqnohwQsakVbYH2XuxVXaMmqJP0UFpJxD_EkQJuxvk7SDwQYEzIw1G4FlcGcNXSew5QnA91OqlH6yqAABZV-mJnyzYjUHSkKcsTMriOAi/s320/P1130332.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><span style="font-size: small;"> <br /></span></div><div class="by-line"><span style="font-size: small;"> </span></div><div class="by-line"><span style="font-size: small;">© written and photographed (except where noted) by <a href="http://www.blogger.com/profile/16983431475848714789">Alfonso Cevola</a></span><span style="font-size: small;"> limited rights reserved <a href="http://acevola.blogspot.com/">On the Wine Trail in Italy</a></span> </div>
<div style="color: white;">
wine blog + Italian wine blog + Italy W</div>
Alfonso Cevolahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16983431475848714789noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20283310.post-24745631735089557822023-12-24T11:52:00.003-06:002023-12-24T14:56:08.605-06:00We’ve Come So Far, So Good<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 22pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 22pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqO7O0hyphenhyphen_ZFLFGvDh-0KpLCuWnjeKP-iJa7Jk8pYpiprlKAL6uy1o4jz8lUYpbrA8256r9kd6GpETyrFp37NaTnM77Afc4-hxFK80FL1m-U5MICcHG05RBB8_EdIXg458W57Lgc5sAsTEA4rhThGyCklfk05cUOkhNPTZVZkINjVU-2X58JmbO/s1008/DSC00108%20copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="763" data-original-width="1008" height="303" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqO7O0hyphenhyphen_ZFLFGvDh-0KpLCuWnjeKP-iJa7Jk8pYpiprlKAL6uy1o4jz8lUYpbrA8256r9kd6GpETyrFp37NaTnM77Afc4-hxFK80FL1m-U5MICcHG05RBB8_EdIXg458W57Lgc5sAsTEA4rhThGyCklfk05cUOkhNPTZVZkINjVU-2X58JmbO/w400-h303/DSC00108%20copy.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 22pt; line-height: 107%;">L</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">ooking back over the past year, if I
were to assess it as a grape-into-wine harvest, I might say this:</span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 8.0pt; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: 67.5pt; margin-top: 0in; margin: 0in 67.5pt 8pt 0.5in;"><i><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">We started with a late but mild spring.
Rainfall was average, with little to no hail or tornadoes. Once summer arrived,
in June, the heat went up and stayed there for months. And months. And
months. For humans, as well as grapes, it made for a difficult growing season,
as there was no recovery available during the night. Often temperatures never
went below 90⁰F, even at midnight! It was a brutal summer, the second in a row.</span></i></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 8.0pt; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: 67.5pt; margin-top: 0in; margin: 0in 67.5pt 8pt 0.5in;"><i><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Still not as brutal as the summer of 1980
or even 2011. In 1980, it was just plain hot for hundreds of days, temperatures
over 100⁰F the whole time. And 2011 also had extreme drought. Thousands of cows
died from lack of water and relief. So, 2023 wasn’t as bad as it could have
been.</span></i></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">And if a wine were to come from a harvest like that?<span></span></span></p><a name='more'></a><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFHG92HZdZ5xBd9LTtOtZ91s0eilKTkjpEpfJEQ6jg6_I0jOoJZyhVralXhKLibcbeAH9j0mhYhNufDuEeSZZ4U6kYxlGDTS7bPi2UkHFKlQ6Vmt2tY0miy2abTfPYvnttMZxaSZy7wtQ42CbenlSAZyFZkkK_YwEKaAEfn2-d-yEsyOEtGBEe/s1590/20160324_123252.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1590" data-original-width="1590" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFHG92HZdZ5xBd9LTtOtZ91s0eilKTkjpEpfJEQ6jg6_I0jOoJZyhVralXhKLibcbeAH9j0mhYhNufDuEeSZZ4U6kYxlGDTS7bPi2UkHFKlQ6Vmt2tY0miy2abTfPYvnttMZxaSZy7wtQ42CbenlSAZyFZkkK_YwEKaAEfn2-d-yEsyOEtGBEe/s320/20160324_123252.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br />Grapes are like humans in many ways. We’ve traveled
together for thousands of years. Our has been a mutual journey through time and
space. If I were a grape, I doubt this year I would have been made into that
good of a wine. But seeing as I’m a human, it struck me a little differently.
It felt like I was being taken down a peg or two from more youthful times. </span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Time, the ultimate leveler. As I perused the pages the
NY Times 2023 obits, there were skads and skads of folks who figured so prominently
in our lives the past several generations. People like Henry Kissinger and
Silvio Berlusconi. Powerful men, womanizers, aggressive behaviors. And others
like Tony Bennett and Tina Turner, who embellished our lives for the better
with their artistry. All of them steeped into their lives fully. All of them
with one common denominator now – the ride is over. <br /></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">I know that might sound a bit morose, but actually,
for me, it is illuminating. What we get ourselves into, in this life, which
occupies so much of our time and attention, and our love (or our antipathy)
make up a lot of what we call our life. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4ySrp3LiHbZlQCvwxD_jbRzv_6ZzmPCNc6f6TRxlEO8N5HyiFRzS001pLWlvk7qL5F518Axi_M2d6GzR_8kKl6uXkpNixjLMjFIqtLBMQxcxpj0kW0fnjXQlBkKLnV1WuRnP9VDB_9JPuuE5Ls4-OmJ7o9oWz4QstMSHJyO0XMc4Mi9h1l6c3/s2254/SAM_6277.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2254" data-original-width="2254" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4ySrp3LiHbZlQCvwxD_jbRzv_6ZzmPCNc6f6TRxlEO8N5HyiFRzS001pLWlvk7qL5F518Axi_M2d6GzR_8kKl6uXkpNixjLMjFIqtLBMQxcxpj0kW0fnjXQlBkKLnV1WuRnP9VDB_9JPuuE5Ls4-OmJ7o9oWz4QstMSHJyO0XMc4Mi9h1l6c3/s320/SAM_6277.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br />I remember a friend’s father, who was a hopeless
alcoholic, and when he was three sheets to the wind, he’d often sing this
little ditty:</span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 8.0pt; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: 1.0in; margin-top: 0in; margin: 0in 1in 8pt 0.5in;"><i><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">“Happiness, happiness, everybody’s looking for
happiness. ‘Round and ‘round they
all do chase, everybody looking in a different place.”</span></i></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">How true those words are, even though coming from him
it sounded a bit more tragic. Still, we can learn from almost anything, with an
open spirit. And 50 years later, I see all this running around, all these
people shouting and screaming and bleeding and crying and dying and laughing
and it’s astounding we, as a species, have accomplished as much as we have,
especially in the last 70 or so years. I’m both bewildered and amazed at the
quantity of human expression on earth. And I’m just an erstwhile wine guy who
aspires to be more photographically proficient before his time runs out.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Oh, wine. Yes. I zagged. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">This week I heard a thud and a crash and went outside
to see if a branch fell on the roof. I saw nothing. A few days later I walked
into my wine closet and saw what it had been. A fairly old bottle of (Texas)
Port wine had leapt from the shelf and committed oenocide. I got me to
wondering if other bottles in there had shared similar dispositions. After all,
in the way I arrange the bottles, that wouldn’t be terribly difficult to
conjure. I went down a rabbit hole, imagining what a wine must feel like when
they know they’ve come a long way in time and they are still lying there, in
the dark, in the (sometimes) cold and with very little to stimulate them (thankfully)
or motivate them (as if?) towards a timelier conclusion to their existence.
Like I said, a rabbit hole. Anyways, I have to think a bit more about this, as
there might be a post in there, somehow. Next year.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs1kS_1udkKop_xL3e1RAioiwfQRIHjiQLOXKjNRi2DZQK4ex3MPcCyaVdPPV_ersv18c4OCDfn762StSvFP-Ko0TfcX_nRbPIUz6Lt2ggYVpq_MOYVaSEa6uvTAg_hQjW-vCZHtcbKwY-yCH-JUpvEG9vYeLboZ_y4A66dOu0AonteW3jr-ez/s1368/SAM_6219.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1368" data-original-width="1368" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs1kS_1udkKop_xL3e1RAioiwfQRIHjiQLOXKjNRi2DZQK4ex3MPcCyaVdPPV_ersv18c4OCDfn762StSvFP-Ko0TfcX_nRbPIUz6Lt2ggYVpq_MOYVaSEa6uvTAg_hQjW-vCZHtcbKwY-yCH-JUpvEG9vYeLboZ_y4A66dOu0AonteW3jr-ez/s320/SAM_6219.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br />One of my young friends, my Sicilian waif, of sorts,
was grilling me on my future. “Oh, next year, are you going to write more?” he
asked. To which I responded, “I’m running out of things to write about, and
doing one post a week is more than enough,” I pleaded. “Oh, nonsense, you have
reams and reams of stories in you, get off it!” </span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">In a way, that was a pleasant prod. In fact, even
though blogs, and wine blogs especially, have long passed their use-by date, it
seems enough people are coming here monthly, so many that I am surprised why
they are still coming? Didn’t I peak ten years ago? It seemed like it to me.
But what do I know, I am water in the river. Not the River. There is something
greater sending me wherever I am going. And in the spirit of the season, thank
you for taking this little trip with me these past 18 years. Yes, in a few
days, On the Wine Trail in Italy will be 18. Old enough to vote. But not old
enough to vote myself off the island, like my little Texas Port friend did
earlier this week.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuaoxPLQ26x-aBUzoVgxUkQZNbJddAAT6SPq8kz-HVATO4p2Owirj7nHH28W27DkWM-h6yJLlQgbrlmcQMxgJ0-rt0Va7bWjOUApHNiPcsCVo0BhEnXDYYNdfrSlfWQZa3Bxx68B0BdniNaekObiFDC_btdRJR-GKweqmDu8MyAsHCtEpA-XLX/s2736/SAM_6482.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2736" data-original-width="2736" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuaoxPLQ26x-aBUzoVgxUkQZNbJddAAT6SPq8kz-HVATO4p2Owirj7nHH28W27DkWM-h6yJLlQgbrlmcQMxgJ0-rt0Va7bWjOUApHNiPcsCVo0BhEnXDYYNdfrSlfWQZa3Bxx68B0BdniNaekObiFDC_btdRJR-GKweqmDu8MyAsHCtEpA-XLX/s320/SAM_6482.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">So, stay tuned. Open up some older bottles – they’re
ready to go. And crack open a panettone and some Moscato too. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Merry Christmas and Happy Festivus. So far, so
good!</span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /> </span></p>
<div class="by-line"><span style="font-size: small;"> </span></div><div class="by-line"><span style="font-size: small;">© written and photographed by <a href="http://www.blogger.com/profile/16983431475848714789">Alfonso Cevola</a></span><span style="font-size: small;"> limited rights reserved <a href="http://acevola.blogspot.com/">On the Wine Trail in Italy</a></span> </div>
<div style="color: white;">
wine blog + Italian wine blog + Italy W</div>
Alfonso Cevolahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16983431475848714789noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20283310.post-90722067242039406032023-12-17T09:13:00.001-06:002023-12-17T09:31:18.868-06:00What do you call home?<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 20pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 20pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8OPW9xwrmfm8W_xoZSnORSH85jMDxc5aqh4N15q0um8OzPqGmhjFrOdXz4XDccH-FaNstXpC_9nrzGGhAq7jfYfhhft_J9Lp8A9qIyPJqglkXvOQX_gSoTbblPk3aqdW5v_pLt-TaFI61wHiQnN9iOJ89dytBtysu1C0KIiHTH1CDhjPOqpOb/s2448/20221114_111713.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2448" data-original-width="2448" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8OPW9xwrmfm8W_xoZSnORSH85jMDxc5aqh4N15q0um8OzPqGmhjFrOdXz4XDccH-FaNstXpC_9nrzGGhAq7jfYfhhft_J9Lp8A9qIyPJqglkXvOQX_gSoTbblPk3aqdW5v_pLt-TaFI61wHiQnN9iOJ89dytBtysu1C0KIiHTH1CDhjPOqpOb/s320/20221114_111713.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 20pt; line-height: 107%;">H</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">aving migrated to Texas from
California 45 years ago now, I have been occupied with two things: the next
chapter and the meaning of home. </span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Years ago, I read a book, <i>Gods, Men and Wine</i>. Somewhere
in it there was a passage about how humans and grapes traveled together through
time and history. Making home where they landed and hopefully thrived. Italy
was surely a good move, for both grapes and humankind. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">I’ve wondered if 45 years has been enough for me in
Texas. And I’ve gone to other places to research uprooting and transplanting myself.
It’s getting late for these old vines, to be sure, but what if? I grew up in California
and spent my early years and most of my youth there. I loved it. But that was
then, and the California of my youth no longer exists.</span> <span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>To</span> <span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">quote Yogi. “Nobody ever
goes there anymore — it's too crowded.” It’s also too expensive now.<span></span></span></p><a name='more'></a><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHp3gbhKkqycFAH9MjY8-70cXXBbropOqoIJmDV5OqbcjrwcyhSOAykp5w0yhVM57Z3xiJJaBQbFiU6tXf0dIqtrObaP31H_Q6iy7xvWYvkZdYO_gwK8dZjkmIpVGZGEfHP9eqn-bQwg1W9jtJRaDp1pF-cg0Fqzan3fknNBriu2SFOInrbjUh/s4350/NYC%20Feb%202017_%20street%20snow%20rain%20window%20shot%20border150ppi.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4350" data-original-width="4350" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHp3gbhKkqycFAH9MjY8-70cXXBbropOqoIJmDV5OqbcjrwcyhSOAykp5w0yhVM57Z3xiJJaBQbFiU6tXf0dIqtrObaP31H_Q6iy7xvWYvkZdYO_gwK8dZjkmIpVGZGEfHP9eqn-bQwg1W9jtJRaDp1pF-cg0Fqzan3fknNBriu2SFOInrbjUh/s320/NYC%20Feb%202017_%20street%20snow%20rain%20window%20shot%20border150ppi.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br />Can I ever have called New York City home? Well, I
tried living there, but I didn’t take root. Put myself back into the Southwest,
where I have spent most of my life. Much better for that. But we all have to
try things, don’t we? It doesn’t mean we will thrive or be our best selves (or
best wines). But try we must.</span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">I have narrowed it down to the Southwest, which is not
that small of a target. But it is something. Still, I’m already there, so,
where else in the SW is going to be a better fit, if at all? </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">I had this rose bush, for 20 years on the east side of
my yard. And for 20 years it sat there and did nothing. Nary a flower in 20
years, and scrawny growth. Sad. And then, during the pandemic, I moved it over
to the west side of the yard. Bingo! It grew and grew and produced flower after
flower. Maybe 50 feet difference? But all the difference in the world. You never
know, how near or far it will need to be until you take the steps.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Grapes and where they call home. Can a Sangiovese
grape call Bordeaux home? Can Viognier call Sicily home? Well, if they moved
there and spent some time there, I reckon eventually any grape can call
anywhere home, as long is it survives there. 50 feet or 4 million. Not an exact
science, this search for home.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">The song God Bless America has the line, “God bless
America, my home sweet home.” When I heard that recently it was as if a light
went off inside. Not to get all mushy and pseudo-patriotic, but was that what
my Italian grandparents were looking for when they came here, for America as
home? It sure felt like it.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Maybe instead of looking somewhere on a pinpoint on a map,
this place, home, is bigger and more amorphous than one specific place? Is it
something inside now?</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEbHHkMgXyhYM1Q4Ufx1pCPBkh2d55Vb6onbHjcL5EyTkUNJRLez_f405AVrdTHFwLsSZw8m7ObkYd-NTv2VjHmRAUEbb1kMwsTL7TYhMHwf8AkS_MFKVydqa23j_kVyChY7Lw2IUslG6hPdsA_PqCWH3WVNt0GVOiokIyge19euZczLAdOpk6/s5135/P1190254b2%20copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3407" data-original-width="5135" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEbHHkMgXyhYM1Q4Ufx1pCPBkh2d55Vb6onbHjcL5EyTkUNJRLez_f405AVrdTHFwLsSZw8m7ObkYd-NTv2VjHmRAUEbb1kMwsTL7TYhMHwf8AkS_MFKVydqa23j_kVyChY7Lw2IUslG6hPdsA_PqCWH3WVNt0GVOiokIyge19euZczLAdOpk6/w400-h265/P1190254b2%20copy.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br />A friend was talking to me as I was ruminating over
this subject, especially the moving part. I mentioned I needed to find a safe
harbor if all hell broke loose in 2024. His comment was “If all hell breaks
loose in 2024, there will be no place to run, no place to hide.” He is right,
for better or worse. We’re all in this together, whether we want to be or not. That
is what America is right now. It may not feel like we’re very together. But
when you pull back the focus a couple of thousand miles and look at it from the
space station, that’s pretty much the essence of it.</span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Your roots are in, you are where you are. Grow the
best grapes you can and make the best wine from them. And fear not. <br /></span></p>
<ul style="text-align: left;"><li class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><i><b>Oh, and would you like an Italian wine recommendation?
Sure, why not?</b></i></span></li></ul>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuoSrr9Xue04fJItCA-Ig1Iu8K-J1HuBj4orwdzI_GzllKNvrB7ZTDc981CXdZ5f7_tPpk2StAU7k_bygJUQLCRi-jZGXnlWVk8BPcb3bDQUrVJ6HfVZKgg5Hzw2FAnmlIbdIovBmy8tmkBkbtlWmm-KL84bZHmWhKaE-jHWcM2lxCcTOgPerQ/s209/thumbme.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="209" data-original-width="199" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuoSrr9Xue04fJItCA-Ig1Iu8K-J1HuBj4orwdzI_GzllKNvrB7ZTDc981CXdZ5f7_tPpk2StAU7k_bygJUQLCRi-jZGXnlWVk8BPcb3bDQUrVJ6HfVZKgg5Hzw2FAnmlIbdIovBmy8tmkBkbtlWmm-KL84bZHmWhKaE-jHWcM2lxCcTOgPerQ/w305-h320/thumbme.jpg" width="305" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br />I picked up this bottle at my local Italian wine and
food store for $14.99. Casale del Giglio Bellone from Lazio. A 2021 vintage, I
was making chicken cutlets Milanese and needed a dry, crisp white. </span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Ian D’Agata has three pages about the grape, Bellone,
in his landmark tome, <i>Native Wine Grapes of Italy</i>. I recommend you search
out his notes, as they are detailed and profuse. Tasting the wine, I had the sensation
of time travel, and was transported to a loggia in Frascati where I most likely
enjoyed a wine with this grape in it 30 or more years ago with my bride.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">In the present moment, the wine was perfect. It was
crisp and dry and with not off flavors, no oxidation, which I have come to
expect almost instinctively from Italian white wines, a remnant of past
inculcation. These days, winemaking and science have advanced, so the wines are
cleaner and less furry. It was a fabulous match with the cutlets, and the side
dish of steamed spinach agio olio didn’t fight the wine. I actually found
myself reaching for the wine after a bite of the spinach to detect any
contrapuntal conflict. Nada, niente. A minor victory for food and wine
matching. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">All this to say, get yourself a bottle of this wine,
seek it out. It was a surprising find.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMltU-0l4qrLb-dvtnclwhQ98qsUnwVRyQYQDXnqxk9AcU02uDIFwHJjGtUo1jBFq3CfLRAkdLVToXMCYH00EJxMwFQNMJRBvcYho89zTxrbqOpJd_P357wNDfZ6tDfFc5mIiHKQsI0M4Zd7YVO84eEU5wOkhQ-YFSFZK9GMnBEFwRMxfR5qOE/s2446/SAM_9850.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2446" data-original-width="2446" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMltU-0l4qrLb-dvtnclwhQ98qsUnwVRyQYQDXnqxk9AcU02uDIFwHJjGtUo1jBFq3CfLRAkdLVToXMCYH00EJxMwFQNMJRBvcYho89zTxrbqOpJd_P357wNDfZ6tDfFc5mIiHKQsI0M4Zd7YVO84eEU5wOkhQ-YFSFZK9GMnBEFwRMxfR5qOE/s320/SAM_9850.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"> <br /></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"> </span></p>
<div class="by-line" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: small;"> </span></div><div class="by-line" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: small;">© written and photographed by <a href="http://www.blogger.com/profile/16983431475848714789">Alfonso Cevola</a></span><span style="font-size: small;"> limited rights reserved <a href="http://acevola.blogspot.com/">On the Wine Trail in Italy</a></span> </div>
<div style="color: white; text-align: left;">
wine blog + Italian wine blog + Italy W</div>
Alfonso Cevolahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16983431475848714789noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20283310.post-84003583333524060002023-12-10T16:05:00.002-06:002023-12-11T15:49:05.105-06:00Where in Heaven's Name? <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 18pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 18pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPQAMjw7pgUM0ToSJ9Odv3q6k72L5dOhOPQ2fPZXyuLEExxyj2vy0b3VumFoNxJZcBo1nGv9T3lARXCL1wtDjDbkJpyKLr4XTJfSxMqXpfzyq6_5JxrmuNRM2nhM1Fdm_dps_IO4n9866UEwlkuZmExZ6sduiTW4g9l2VEbyaGwdYYs7uDJf8K/s2160/img520%20copy1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1440" data-original-width="2160" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPQAMjw7pgUM0ToSJ9Odv3q6k72L5dOhOPQ2fPZXyuLEExxyj2vy0b3VumFoNxJZcBo1nGv9T3lARXCL1wtDjDbkJpyKLr4XTJfSxMqXpfzyq6_5JxrmuNRM2nhM1Fdm_dps_IO4n9866UEwlkuZmExZ6sduiTW4g9l2VEbyaGwdYYs7uDJf8K/w400-h266/img520%20copy1.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: x-large; line-height: 107%;">T</span><span style="font-family: times; font-size: large; line-height: 107%;">his past week I’ve been racking up
miles across the great Southwest looking for the future. The journey has taken
me to Santa Fe, New Mexico, a place I hadn’t been to in more than 25 years. It
used to be a place I went to often, for work and for play. I even went there
once for a honeymoon. So, there are plenty of good memories in that place.</span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: times; font-size: large; line-height: 107%;">This time, while on other business I managed to go to
a few wine shops and restaurants. I was happily surprised to see Italian wine thriving
there. Mind you, you could fit Santa Fe into one of the new developments in
Dallas or Houston. But the place attracts artists, intellectual and the very
well healed. Some of the folks in Santa Fe have another home in Tuscany, from
the conversations I was privy to. The Italian connection is alive and well.<span></span></span></p><a name='more'></a><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: times; font-size: large; line-height: 107%;">And the wines are exciting. In one local spot near the
square, Pasqual’s. one can get a very respectable white from Etna (Tenuta delle
Terre Nere) or an equally honest Nebbiolo (Vajra) from Piedmont, by the glass,
under $20. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: times; font-size: large; line-height: 107%;">Out in the tony Las Campanas neighborhood, Arroyo Vino
is a wine shop with a restaurant attached to it. From the wine shop side, one
can source many a wonderful Italian red and white, both from the traditional
producers as well as the crunchy granola camp. A short walk to the café and
voila, many a great evening awaits. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: times; font-size: large; line-height: 107%;">Further up the highway, at Pueblo of Pojoaque, I
stopped into a little Mexican place, El Parasol, to lunch with the locals for
some good, solid Mexican food. Afterwards, I walked it off and strolled over to
Kokoman Fine Wines and Liquor, where I discovered a treasure trove of Italian reds
with enough age on them to be more interesting than when they were first
released. I spotted a covey of <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Nino Negri wines, a Sfursat Di Valtellina. 2012, for
under $50, a steal, and an accompanying 2013 Nino Negri Cinque Stelle Sfursat
di Valtellina for under $70, also a bargain. Matched with a nice oxtail stew with
polenta, on a cold high-desert night in December, both those wines were made
for the moment. Great stuff, and Santa Fe has it in droves.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: times; font-size: large; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijj70ujftQXgVu0OuOcpsRLEorNiwsbY3bqxp9rY1NbdAMsz-RfmTpWiD3h5oRq4QiW0Yyl_UtsPX9fzuSKVO-1g_1PWBDJjK3aFU8Q22Qc9zsvc6vaD61BrxRuNZ-p2xsUqxeEEKbNNBR0B0HcOjngr2n1rpvAT6exavFfTvd4KqLceU-KSmV/s2195/img540%20copy.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2195" data-original-width="2195" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijj70ujftQXgVu0OuOcpsRLEorNiwsbY3bqxp9rY1NbdAMsz-RfmTpWiD3h5oRq4QiW0Yyl_UtsPX9fzuSKVO-1g_1PWBDJjK3aFU8Q22Qc9zsvc6vaD61BrxRuNZ-p2xsUqxeEEKbNNBR0B0HcOjngr2n1rpvAT6exavFfTvd4KqLceU-KSmV/s320/img540%20copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With friend and colleague Eugenio Spinozzi in 1995<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: times; font-size: large; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: times; font-size: large; line-height: 107%;">You might be out in the middle of nowhere, in a little
café in Eldorado, and a radiant little piece of Italy and Italian wine
will welcome you. It was wonderful to see and to taste as well.</span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: times; font-size: large; line-height: 107%;">In Texas, Italian wine has become successful. But it
also has been fetishized at some of the bright and shiny spots in the larger
cities. You can see it on Instagram, with the sparkle ponies showing off their
bottles of Monfortino or Gaja, Sassicaia or Solaia. But here in New Mexico it has
undergone a more earthbound display, where wines are accessible not just to the
1%ers or the influencers. Not that one couldn’t find that in New Mexico. It
just isn’t the default here.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: times; font-size: large; line-height: 107%;">My soul and my heart in New Mexico underwent a bit of
an overhaul, hopefully for the better. Back in Texas, the politicians and the angry
not-so-young men are battling over their personal Gaza’s. Enough already, it’s
Hanukkah, Kwanzaa and Christmas time. Time to stop bickering and find a way to
make peace.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: times; font-size: large; line-height: 107%;">Meanwhile, in New Mexico, the quest continues, the
search for Eldorado. At least I won’t have to look far to find Italian wines I
know and love. Thank Heavens for Santa Fe.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJvGo9BgkhQFOVAc_x1uX7hIdLQGgf06vdUgT0TJiu2fs3klUPMx1xOwzYPb4J2ID64haNhIFXpxsyQAvc-2eR0MbLzd0K4wFgAMOnmHGNSl4H_hO0Vjxds-H4BBXveGgyP5tFJzYzwHkxp-3qry8-Znhd3ewyVFNXn5p2Ktedl-X3NbHebj1k/s1440/img549%20copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1440" data-original-width="1440" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJvGo9BgkhQFOVAc_x1uX7hIdLQGgf06vdUgT0TJiu2fs3klUPMx1xOwzYPb4J2ID64haNhIFXpxsyQAvc-2eR0MbLzd0K4wFgAMOnmHGNSl4H_hO0Vjxds-H4BBXveGgyP5tFJzYzwHkxp-3qry8-Znhd3ewyVFNXn5p2Ktedl-X3NbHebj1k/s320/img549%20copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"> <br /></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"> </span></p>
<span style="font-size: small;">© written and photographed by <a href="http://www.blogger.com/profile/16983431475848714789">Alfonso Cevola</a></span><span style="font-size: small;"> limited rights reserved <a href="http://acevola.blogspot.com/">On the Wine Trail in Italy</a></span>
<div style="color: white;">
wine blog + Italian wine blog + Italy W</div>
Alfonso Cevolahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16983431475848714789noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20283310.post-23534954033747986412023-12-03T08:50:00.004-06:002023-12-08T04:08:32.899-06:00It All Depends on You<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 22pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPmj3rPG133ZbY5O_vXPX5fWndUtmVHnrYSdasZ2IGIXjZFdODhg0dUlp03EvbbP4ZMT3dOlkU1iQWP2afAUh7PUwkvV8PjsLClN6Z4lvjUx2dzFEWsf2xhpFxF_gwYPjQXCIyms93yAvWNPSjzhDJSL0bJPyWal2CJ5TVI8rRfGkgBIkaQmkl/s5184/P1190388.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="5184" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPmj3rPG133ZbY5O_vXPX5fWndUtmVHnrYSdasZ2IGIXjZFdODhg0dUlp03EvbbP4ZMT3dOlkU1iQWP2afAUh7PUwkvV8PjsLClN6Z4lvjUx2dzFEWsf2xhpFxF_gwYPjQXCIyms93yAvWNPSjzhDJSL0bJPyWal2CJ5TVI8rRfGkgBIkaQmkl/w400-h266/P1190388.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
<o:AllowPNG/>
</o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:WordDocument>
<w:View>Normal</w:View>
<w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom>
<w:TrackMoves/>
<w:TrackFormatting/>
<w:PunctuationKerning/>
<w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/>
<w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>
<w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent>
<w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>
<w:DoNotPromoteQF/>
<w:LidThemeOther>EN-US</w:LidThemeOther>
<w:LidThemeAsian>X-NONE</w:LidThemeAsian>
<w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript>
<w:Compatibility>
<w:BreakWrappedTables/>
<w:SnapToGridInCell/>
<w:WrapTextWithPunct/>
<w:UseAsianBreakRules/>
<w:DontGrowAutofit/>
<w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/>
<w:EnableOpenTypeKerning/>
<w:DontFlipMirrorIndents/>
<w:OverrideTableStyleHps/>
</w:Compatibility>
<m:mathPr>
<m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/>
<m:brkBin m:val="before"/>
<m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/>
<m:smallFrac m:val="off"/>
<m:dispDef/>
<m:lMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:rMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/>
<m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/>
<m:intLim m:val="subSup"/>
<m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/>
</m:mathPr></w:WordDocument>
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="false"
DefSemiHidden="false" DefQFormat="false" DefPriority="99"
LatentStyleCount="376">
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" QFormat="true" Name="Normal"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="heading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="heading 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="heading 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="heading 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="heading 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="heading 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="heading 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="heading 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="index 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="index 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="index 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="index 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="index 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="index 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="index 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="index 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="index 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="toc 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="toc 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="toc 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="toc 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="toc 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="toc 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="toc 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="toc 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="toc 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Normal Indent"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="footnote text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="annotation text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="header"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="footer"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="index heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="35" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="caption"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="table of figures"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="envelope address"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="envelope return"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="footnote reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="annotation reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="line number"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="page number"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="endnote reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="endnote text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="table of authorities"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="macro"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="toa heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Bullet"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Number"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Bullet 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Bullet 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Bullet 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Bullet 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Number 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Number 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Number 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Number 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="10" QFormat="true" Name="Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Closing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Signature"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="Default Paragraph Font"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Message Header"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Salutation"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Date"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text First Indent"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text First Indent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Note Heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Block Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Hyperlink"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="FollowedHyperlink"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Document Map"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Plain Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="E-mail Signature"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Top of Form"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Bottom of Form"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Normal (Web)"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Acronym"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Address"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Cite"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Code"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Definition"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Keyboard"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Preformatted"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Sample"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Typewriter"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Variable"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Normal Table"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="annotation subject"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="No List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Contemporary"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Elegant"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Professional"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Subtle 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Subtle 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Balloon Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Theme"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" QFormat="true"
Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" QFormat="true"
Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" QFormat="true"
Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="41" Name="Plain Table 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="42" Name="Plain Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="43" Name="Plain Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="44" Name="Plain Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="45" Name="Plain Table 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="40" Name="Grid Table Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46" Name="Grid Table 1 Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51" Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52" Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46" Name="List Table 1 Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51" Name="List Table 6 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52" Name="List Table 7 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Mention"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Smart Hyperlink"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Hashtag"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Unresolved Mention"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Smart Link"/>
</w:LatentStyles>
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]>
<style>
/* Style Definitions */
table.MsoNormalTable
{mso-style-name:"Table Normal";
mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
mso-style-noshow:yes;
mso-style-priority:99;
mso-style-parent:"";
mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt;
mso-para-margin-top:0in;
mso-para-margin-right:0in;
mso-para-margin-bottom:8.0pt;
mso-para-margin-left:0in;
line-height:107%;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:11.0pt;
font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;
mso-ascii-font-family:Calibri;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;
mso-font-kerning:1.0pt;
mso-ligatures:standardcontextual;}
</style>
<![endif]-->
<div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: #666666; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 107%;"><i>Jackson <s>Pollock</s> Salmon</i></span></span></div>
</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 22pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 22pt; line-height: 107%;">I</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">t is so very entertaining observing
from the edge of the river. Swimming along are the young fish, all bright and
shiny and determined to show the world just what great swimmers they are. And
aren’t they beautiful? Along with that, regulated by the river and depending on
the fish, they might just be swimming somewhere to save their species, as
members of their group have done for countless generations.</span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">Likewise, it is a similar swim, on land with the
up-and-coming crop of wine tradesmen and women. They’re all suited up and
shimmering in the bright room, say, at a wine tasting. I love to study their
movements in the room, who they talk to, what they talk about, which wines they
are drawn to, and the people they connect with. We all did it, consciously or otherwise.
It’s part of our humanity.<span></span></span></p><a name='more'></a><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">What I’ve been pondering, a lot, lately, is how the
present iteration of today’s wine professionals - the movers and the shakers -
is girded. And with the news coming out lately that wine, once again, is lumbering,
due to economic malaise and several other factors, I can’t help but wonder how
they will pull the wine trade out of the nosedive it seems to be finding itself
in.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">For myself, I had no idea just how severe the present
crisis was. And surely some of the doomsayers can’t all be right? But we all
love to see things bleed, don’t we? And some of us actually want to read about
the rescue being a successful one.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">I read this recently by <a href="https://kottke.org/23/11/0043546-not-long-ago-when-i" target="_blank">Edith Zimmerman</a>:</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 8.0pt; margin-left: 1.0in; margin-right: 67.5pt; margin-top: 0in; margin: 0in 67.5pt 8pt 1in; text-align: justify;"><i><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">Not long ago, when I
ordered a café au lait in downtown Washington, I was told my lait choices were <a name="_Hlk152329417">oat, soy, or almond</a>. “I’ll take regular whole milk,” I
said. “Sorry, we don’t have that,” the barista replied.</span></i></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">It reminded me when I was taking a walk around my
local shopping mall and stopped in at the Italian Emporium. In the cold box
were wines that warbled the oat, soy or almond mantra, this time regarding Italian
wines. There were orange wines. There was a Sicilian Viognier and a Piedmontese
Riesling. There was no Soave, Verdicchio or Gavi to be found. <i>“Sorry, we
don’t have that,” </i>the barista replied.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtGZPLZp9IsbQkojfLlgsg7ntNgSbaxQwecu07w4zHR5s_vlHV-p0lXs5i-7N7DHlC1g6X05En_cEEru3G_UIGI9IgQLZpcnJ8VXbQMcHtSbkK7xccAYvQ_c53wtJ4lcyflkSUiKGEjTqE1x18midhgEa9D7jtmMCrmT5ODyEenZWqIBOXZpIh/s6016/AMC_2992.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4016" data-original-width="6016" height="268" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtGZPLZp9IsbQkojfLlgsg7ntNgSbaxQwecu07w4zHR5s_vlHV-p0lXs5i-7N7DHlC1g6X05En_cEEru3G_UIGI9IgQLZpcnJ8VXbQMcHtSbkK7xccAYvQ_c53wtJ4lcyflkSUiKGEjTqE1x18midhgEa9D7jtmMCrmT5ODyEenZWqIBOXZpIh/w400-h268/AMC_2992.JPG" width="400" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><br />I’m all for inclusion. I’m befuddled when the basic
building blocks, the ones that got us here, are cast aside for the idiosyncratic
being presented as the standard-bearers. It took years to bring people over
from France and California to Italian wines, and to Italian whites even more of
a challenge. A Sicilian Viognier? It’s a bizarre anachrony. No wonder they’re
reducing floor and display space in the store.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span></span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">I’m saying this because even though I am open to all,
what happened to the rest of <i><u>all</u></i>? By the way, the Viognier and
Riesling, strangers in a strange land, were selling for well over $20. Not your
everyday ring-up. Who’s making these choices? Who is teaching the young decision
makers how to run a successful business, not just curating a list of one’s
favorite off-the-wall wines? What good is this for anyone involved?</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">Years ago, there was this buyer in a town in Texas who
moved around from store to store. One could tell their current interests, at
the time, by the set. In one store, they had 90+ Parker wines from Australia
that were selling for over $30. In another they hand-picked a slew of Grosses
Gewächs Rieslings from Germany, again, $30 and up, 90 points and up. And the
wines sat there. Meanwhile the wine buyer moved on. Eventually that town in
Texas became like a cemetery for said wine buyers’ current crazes, until the<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>person left the business and the state. And
it took years to move those wines out, many of them suffering from sitting too
long under the fluorescent lights of the wine shops. For what?</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">Look, we all have a learning curve. But many of us had
teachers and guides, souls that steered us away from the cliffs of bad
decisions. I don’t see those safeguards as clearly today.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">I went into a local Italian place that just opened up.
Nice decorations, pleasant environment, not too loud or bright. The server
handed me the wine list. $12 for a glass of red from Abruzzo, essentially a
co-op wine. Twenty years ago, this would have been a $5 pour. Now entry level
is $12. Of course, the wine is probably better now than it was twenty years
ago. But a savvy buyer could have readily found an even better wine and maybe
it would have been seen as a good deal, by folks like me, at $12. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBLp6Cz-TgLTDqMlSuBl4yyspBR4j-oj4dPCtgjbko1e-EN2zf5-InJTTZYNidjX2mSrQKX65RtqSQq_DQudKLaGGb0AzLWVMmP0ngauSKcesLuJKs26c1cm46TFgeofdxRhXXgqs2Enf0wh9CtS0P3R_r4mmO6ASzfOfnHuYshm9CsTGadRLt/s5184/P1190343.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="5184" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBLp6Cz-TgLTDqMlSuBl4yyspBR4j-oj4dPCtgjbko1e-EN2zf5-InJTTZYNidjX2mSrQKX65RtqSQq_DQudKLaGGb0AzLWVMmP0ngauSKcesLuJKs26c1cm46TFgeofdxRhXXgqs2Enf0wh9CtS0P3R_r4mmO6ASzfOfnHuYshm9CsTGadRLt/w400-h266/P1190343.JPG" width="400" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><br />I didn’t drink wine that night. Ok, that was the other
end of the spectrum from the “anything goes” curated selection at the Italian
wine and food emporium. But I wonder what folks, who are just looking for a
good Margherita pizza and a mellow glass of red, are getting themselves into
when they step into some of these places which are governed by that shimmering
crop of today’s wine tradesmen and women. </span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">If I were new to Italian wine and I went into either
of these places, I don’t know if I would ever become a fan of Italian wine.
Seriously. I’m being told what to like by someone who hasn’t learned the basic
blocking and tackling of the trade. Or someone looking to make as much profit
off me on a glass of wine, to the point that the first ½ glass pays for the
bottle. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">There’s a lot of talk about the crisis in today’s
restaurant industry, in regards to attracting servers and workers into the
industry. Horrible hours, demanding work, questionable compensation. I think
with what I am experiencing with today’s wine buyers (not all, but too many)
that the reported restaurant crisis will solve itself. Because folks will just
stop coming to places that are not elevating their tastes and needs within
their budgets. It’ll be like X (formerly Twitter) and just fade into the past. Peut-être?</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">Of course, many of us will by then disappear. And that
will also solve the younger generations annoyance with the elders who have
handed them this world. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">In a world that is still looking for whole wine, what
will they do with all that unsold oat, soy, or almond wine? What are they going
to do, follow us into oblivion? Or keep swimming to save the species?</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMTeSagVCrptw0QRaMVE-mRvG-6AjmgeX-q3z-LQm814cLs4ZBOSj0-eOiTqrU3KBGGf8hxOOyKvIMxVALGIRZSR6poPpsSQeKdwuw1ySVP8S8ZI_qc-BmTqEURFEseO1JOVOvTDLb_tQ1056Wt6dWIQeEm7SMP_8JZ2u3nSNA6hJumxrDlbC5/s1008/canada%20alaska%20water%20shot%20P1190374%20copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1008" data-original-width="1008" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMTeSagVCrptw0QRaMVE-mRvG-6AjmgeX-q3z-LQm814cLs4ZBOSj0-eOiTqrU3KBGGf8hxOOyKvIMxVALGIRZSR6poPpsSQeKdwuw1ySVP8S8ZI_qc-BmTqEURFEseO1JOVOvTDLb_tQ1056Wt6dWIQeEm7SMP_8JZ2u3nSNA6hJumxrDlbC5/s320/canada%20alaska%20water%20shot%20P1190374%20copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"> <br /></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"> </span></p>
<span style="font-size: small;">© written and photographed by <a href="http://www.blogger.com/profile/16983431475848714789">Alfonso Cevola</a></span><span style="font-size: small;"> limited rights reserved <a href="http://acevola.blogspot.com/">On the Wine Trail in Italy</a></span>
<div style="color: white;">
wine blog + Italian wine blog + Italy W</div>
Alfonso Cevolahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16983431475848714789noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20283310.post-78104151889774553572023-11-26T14:49:00.007-06:002023-11-26T15:23:42.982-06:00The Right Time to Open That Bottle<i>The clock of time is a wild child...”</i> - Priyansha Vashi
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 26pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 26pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTYO65Q1k3JYFpgr40vaHr8BWGwfohs7Xv4i_pFlnOarW9qyZdHnJiGYxpdFj8E-dltUbjBq8IW9w5VDCUNHrpEqjln2FMAfMpxpsdwTmTBXTQWIMDGWNvJfOFjQnUdrk93MNVWcvZ2gpF3TbQyM2oQX4qjce9flwUcvRLCYCbUXPo89CydYYs/s843/corkscrew.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="815" data-original-width="843" height="309" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTYO65Q1k3JYFpgr40vaHr8BWGwfohs7Xv4i_pFlnOarW9qyZdHnJiGYxpdFj8E-dltUbjBq8IW9w5VDCUNHrpEqjln2FMAfMpxpsdwTmTBXTQWIMDGWNvJfOFjQnUdrk93MNVWcvZ2gpF3TbQyM2oQX4qjce9flwUcvRLCYCbUXPo89CydYYs/s320/corkscrew.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 26pt; line-height: 107%;">L</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">ately, as it seems I have a lot more time
on my hands, although it is somewhat abbreviated compared to 30 years
ago, I often muse upon the logistics of when to open a bottle. During the
recent holiday, I wanted to find something red and with a little bit of age on
it, maybe 10 years. Along with that, I needed a crisp fresh white wine to complement
the foods we were serving along with the preferences of the other folks
enjoying the wine with me. Both wines needed to be opened at the right time. In
the case of the white wine, that was a little bit easier. But in the case of
the red, a 2013 Barolo, I wondered just what I might be getting myself into.
No, not anything dramatic. More of a desire to pinpoint the right bottle at the
right time kind of thing. And if it didn’t work, well, there are plenty more willing
participants in that cold, dark room, where they huddle in peace waiting for
their moment to shine.<span><a name='more'></a></span></span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNVZu48CtjSY7taADYgRv4ylQ5AnDd8w_qldoyL4XXF2DrAwleMNwz01JrDlqNkkCy7cC4dBbKxTVpQ1cMaJ5qwXQscC5ZRTaiiqXfYWSjMYgC64dcr0Ft-wrs-mkKQmW0TGzDAxP2lYwRWeur-gGTIX8MsjGGOVT1IWpJxHnt3S8o1grH68eg/s1200/von%20winning.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNVZu48CtjSY7taADYgRv4ylQ5AnDd8w_qldoyL4XXF2DrAwleMNwz01JrDlqNkkCy7cC4dBbKxTVpQ1cMaJ5qwXQscC5ZRTaiiqXfYWSjMYgC64dcr0Ft-wrs-mkKQmW0TGzDAxP2lYwRWeur-gGTIX8MsjGGOVT1IWpJxHnt3S8o1grH68eg/s320/von%20winning.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">The white, a German, is a favorite quaff of mine
lately. A 2021 Sauvignon Blanc from the Pfalz and the Von Winning. Denoted as
“II” among the different cuvees of SB made by the Weingut, this one is their entry
level, which sees no oak. I love this wine. It’s German, it’s white and even
though it isn’t a Riesling, it has similar characteristics of one. But it is a bit
more tarty, edgy and super clean in the finish. Went very well with the smoked
turkey, the mashed potatoes (with lots and lots of butter) and the traditional
green bean casserole (albeit a bit more artisanally created). Anyway, it was
deelish and perfect.</span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">The Barolo, a single vineyard 'Pernanno' 2013
from Cascina Bongiovanni presented a bit more of a complex challenge.
Reviews had pegged this wine as maybe being a little too oaked, and slightly hot in the alcohol profile. I took that
into consideration to go along with the smokiness of the turkey. The grapes, grown in Castiglione Falletto, had
good enough of a pedigree, for sure. And the 2013 vintage, now ten years old, received a fair share of laudatory acclaim. What better way to find out than to
pop a bottle and see where we were at?</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">Folks write about the strong tannins of Barolo, but
for years that sensation has eluded me. I didn’t feel it. Maybe it was growing
up on California wine. Or going to En Primeur in Bordeaux for years. Now there
were a lot of tannic wines I tasted in Napa and Bordeaux. But Piedmont? Nahhh,
I didn’t get that gene.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibtw0IGEQhMwytLJUMuGQCkt8AbkWK9vSEi2L2oYWjUs7W39USTIi2LVphZMADW6e4d4_x4xmRM2w3GladKr7Gcyp0t0wy7TYgI80Rpo5NoYhF0pXekRwyKw1Ow0p1M_jBQFQwMVazeiV-dY01yhkHuwtwWKivJoG3xFRdbLLtVNiEJu-tknBv/s1200/2013%20conterno.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibtw0IGEQhMwytLJUMuGQCkt8AbkWK9vSEi2L2oYWjUs7W39USTIi2LVphZMADW6e4d4_x4xmRM2w3GladKr7Gcyp0t0wy7TYgI80Rpo5NoYhF0pXekRwyKw1Ow0p1M_jBQFQwMVazeiV-dY01yhkHuwtwWKivJoG3xFRdbLLtVNiEJu-tknBv/s320/2013%20conterno.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">But this wine was <i>très tannic</i>. I decanted it rather ruggedly,
as the picture denotes. We were going to spank this baby and welcome it into
the cruel world of the living. The wine did not back down, came out screaming,
bawling. But it did calm down, eventually. And in the period of an afternoon
and evening, the life of that wine was laid out for all to see and feel.</span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">So often, we labor over when is the right time to pull
the cork. I think that humankind wrestles with that issue over many levels. In
the case of wine, though, what I have found is that there is an infinitesimal number
of times when the conditions are perfect. Conversely, there are rare few times
when it isn’t the right time. Sure, we’ve all experienced those moments when
the spirit of the wine inside the newly opened bottle of wine had passed years
ago. Such is life. And death.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">What I have learned, in my dotage, is to not sweat the
small stuff. If the wine doesn’t feel right, open another one, chances are very
few of us who have wine collections will live to see all of our bottles opened
up in our lifetime. So, take that into consideration. And in the meantime,
learn to pivot when pivoting is needed, and appreciate and be grateful for the
small miracles that open up in front of us every day.</span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIm9kx0yi0GtbLMBhEV2kSlt70GXcUBc4FsPQsxF5JCgZT1Hm2ka35OwHU3hqsYcckzkHbSPeQdVNxszh4KprirfSYNZxqRE8CPN-lw_nYh-H7paKAfHW0V73NUk8IhH0MB3JtrOX-SfwbTnCNY7lIdBNxVymNfni0mwrR_2aeao2bKucvYNyP/s1200/suit.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIm9kx0yi0GtbLMBhEV2kSlt70GXcUBc4FsPQsxF5JCgZT1Hm2ka35OwHU3hqsYcckzkHbSPeQdVNxszh4KprirfSYNZxqRE8CPN-lw_nYh-H7paKAfHW0V73NUk8IhH0MB3JtrOX-SfwbTnCNY7lIdBNxVymNfni0mwrR_2aeao2bKucvYNyP/s320/suit.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">P.S. The Barolo was just fine, it was the right time.</span></p>
<div class="by-line"><span style="font-size: small;"> </span></div><div class="by-line"><span style="font-size: small;"> </span></div><div class="by-line"><span style="font-size: small;">© written and photographed (except for the first image of the "Vitruvian corkscrew") by <a href="http://www.blogger.com/profile/16983431475848714789">Alfonso Cevola</a></span><span style="font-size: small;"> limited rights reserved <a href="http://acevola.blogspot.com/">On the Wine Trail in Italy</a></span> </div>
<div style="color: white;">
wine blog + Italian wine blog + Italy W</div>
Alfonso Cevolahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16983431475848714789noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20283310.post-457178335323462132023-11-19T12:52:00.006-06:002023-11-23T11:14:32.926-06:00Pivoting While Whirling<p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh18WMYf82qD3Gstx1KeiakTn0imjSD1NQpy1-gpkR0lTY0zJHRdv31vVrRq7cKiEUKzjF_xPolaYiuw8HT3hMKMhuEDGw5idgpRipOjr_hpmSWq8_GP9wRzSGuUowVIGW2t_rMyhrql-kqCzfYb999yvz5Vgk_zQg5NlRFAG9eo1WrL31jCmsc/s968/dbw%20ervish.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="645" data-original-width="968" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh18WMYf82qD3Gstx1KeiakTn0imjSD1NQpy1-gpkR0lTY0zJHRdv31vVrRq7cKiEUKzjF_xPolaYiuw8HT3hMKMhuEDGw5idgpRipOjr_hpmSWq8_GP9wRzSGuUowVIGW2t_rMyhrql-kqCzfYb999yvz5Vgk_zQg5NlRFAG9eo1WrL31jCmsc/w400-h266/dbw%20ervish.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 22pt; line-height: 107%;">R</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">ecently, longstanding and noted
wine bloggers have been declaring. Things like:<i> </i></span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><i><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">“I don’t suppose I have many of you
checking this site daily for updates…” - <a href="https://www.vinography.com/2023/11/where-did-vinography-disappear-to" target="_blank">Vinography</a></span></i></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><i><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">“I have in fact been blogging without a
break about every two weeks for more than a dozen years now, and I would be
less than honest if I didn’t admit to feeling a little stale at it…and (will)
take a brief sabbatical from this blog” - <a href="https://ubriaco.wordpress.com/2023/11/17/anima-vagula-blandula-needs-a-nap/#comments" target="_blank">Tom's Wine Line<br /></a></span></i></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><i><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">“…the blog will end its 16-plus year run on
Jan. 15…sadly, I don’t think it’s relevant anymore.” - <a href="https://winecurmudgeon.com/birthday-week-essay-2023-its-time-to-say-goodbye/" target="_blank">The Wine Curmudgeon</a></span></i></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">And while I have noticed the world of blogging in
general doesn’t seem to have the oomph it once had in the world (it’s no longer
the bright shiny thing in the corner) my take on anyone who might be having an
existential moment (we don’t need another crisis) in regards to their relevancy
is an optimistic one. <span></span></span></p><a name='more'></a><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">I say this because while I have been blogging for
close-on 18 years now, and religious about posting at least once a week in all
that time (the hard-head in me) I see wine blogging less as a way to gather
more and more readers so I can influence them (those days are long gone) and
more as an exercise for my brain. I’m doing a lot of exercise these days, both
physical and mental. I see the upside to longevity, as long as it has a healthy
component to it. Wine blogging plugs me into a creative outlet that is part of
that regimen. And traffic is still pretty good, if only for the fact that after
blogging for so many years, a lot of new readers come here because of a search
engine and they are looking for content that might still be meaningful. I mean,
a review on a 2009 Soave from 2010 might not be so helpful in 2023, but folks
who come to On the Wine Trail in Italy learned long ago not to come here for
tasting notes.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Why such unbounded idealism? It’s part of my
organoleptic fiber. It’s the way I look at things. And I look at a lot of
things, being mostly a visual person.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC0y0eImaTwkbYW4_GrdHaoqsxMD0dprmYCD0c9h6UiAqkUvIv89rRjBsQWiT6d98yfINP1rz9lVIzVR5II0ZAe4OHnBi0IiK-l-3uYqyixJ-k_NjgaRuPVahkyzbk-SM3Voh6vMiYqfQ0R2-jFLixS09gTz8QsT9z8WBQgZ5igGBjFAUxh-xG/s2371/20230510_155135%20(002)%20copy%20copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2371" data-original-width="2320" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC0y0eImaTwkbYW4_GrdHaoqsxMD0dprmYCD0c9h6UiAqkUvIv89rRjBsQWiT6d98yfINP1rz9lVIzVR5II0ZAe4OHnBi0IiK-l-3uYqyixJ-k_NjgaRuPVahkyzbk-SM3Voh6vMiYqfQ0R2-jFLixS09gTz8QsT9z8WBQgZ5igGBjFAUxh-xG/w391-h400/20230510_155135%20(002)%20copy%20copy.jpg" width="391" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br />I have been reading a book, <i><a href="https://www.goodreads.com/book/show/55539565-think-again" target="_blank">Think Again, The Power of Knowing What You Don’t Know</a></i>, by Adam Grant.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Recommended by a longtime friend and
erstwhile college roommate Kevin, we both attended art and creativity classes
at Santa Clara University back when the crust of the earth was cooling. We’ve
bounced ideas off of each other a lot in the past 50 years, but more so in the
post-Covid world we find ourselves in. For one, we have more time to
investigate stuff. But we also are still interested in things like art and
creativity. Kevin taught the stuff at a university in Minnesota. I entered the
world of sales and business, being a single dad and needing to keep a leakproof
roof above and the lights on below. It served me well in regards to rejection.
I learned to see rejection as an exercise that could strengthen me and my
resolve. And now, when I cogitate about the state of blogging, with or without
wine, I don’t think about relevance too much. I focus on the work, the words,
the exercise and the strength building. If you build it, they will come, right?</span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">To the folks who say it’s over, what then? Because, as
I see it, you have to move forward, or you stop living. As Adam Grant writes,
one must rethink and unlearn. And after so many years on earth, I find that
prospect invigorating, challenging, and exciting as all get out.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">What can wine writers write about that will give their
readers joy and excitement? For my part, I think the everyday living, with wine
as a component of it, and integrating wine into one’s overall life, is the focus
I have these days. It doesn’t matter if the wine is $10 or $500, if it’s 30
years old or barely a year. If it’s from Italy or New Mexico. There’s something
there that tells a story. And in my view, the story is more a mirror or a
reflection, than a score or an apostrophe. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Yeah, the world is whirling about at unimaginable
speeds. But in order to keep from getting thrown off, we’re going to need to
pivot. And that is what is commanding my attention presently. </span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie-bUFQYJaKpUZq24gLo0EhxuGNjhoI3QycbDBxO8eLCUOA2vC95LfXohBHqt2Urbkg2tXKC3FTbiPkl4lDpDY3CN3NA9bb5Qf7gtExxwWhG0cZWDAtF0OFoVe0AB0KCQ3XeWcojiDZM8H4ORyKfY313C1LI1QkUTfZwqxrKsewUryBcY-Kprb/s3515/P1190392%20fish%20hatchery%20abstract%20sq2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3515" data-original-width="3514" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie-bUFQYJaKpUZq24gLo0EhxuGNjhoI3QycbDBxO8eLCUOA2vC95LfXohBHqt2Urbkg2tXKC3FTbiPkl4lDpDY3CN3NA9bb5Qf7gtExxwWhG0cZWDAtF0OFoVe0AB0KCQ3XeWcojiDZM8H4ORyKfY313C1LI1QkUTfZwqxrKsewUryBcY-Kprb/s320/P1190392%20fish%20hatchery%20abstract%20sq2.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span><p></p>
<span style="font-size: small;">© written and photographed <i><span style="color: #666666;">(except the first photo, courtesy of Adobe Creative Cloud)</span></i> by <a href="http://www.blogger.com/profile/16983431475848714789">Alfonso Cevola</a></span><span style="font-size: small;"> limited rights reserved <a href="http://acevola.blogspot.com/">On the Wine Trail in Italy</a></span>
<div style="color: white;">
wine blog + Italian wine blog + Italy W</div>
Alfonso Cevolahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16983431475848714789noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20283310.post-29160565277378464512023-11-12T15:39:00.002-06:002023-11-13T07:30:16.312-06:00The Most Important Wine Harvest of All Time<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 22pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 22pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBRFO4dec8UwYcYBM8HqkBfGEeKS9zHroUNzowXvCRdno_JEg91oBj2blloV3hYnv3ASW6aqF_Ncw0bsjZfQn2ivlGEQOQ75oVShgF-52V8030ZzulLKRFswuD2JQ0EDUX0LC4_LLAp8ZtaYdE5DGuUV0sDaZvAaWj1kCPV_S-j-NJrjKFqDpO/s3888/P1130302.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3888" data-original-width="3888" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBRFO4dec8UwYcYBM8HqkBfGEeKS9zHroUNzowXvCRdno_JEg91oBj2blloV3hYnv3ASW6aqF_Ncw0bsjZfQn2ivlGEQOQ75oVShgF-52V8030ZzulLKRFswuD2JQ0EDUX0LC4_LLAp8ZtaYdE5DGuUV0sDaZvAaWj1kCPV_S-j-NJrjKFqDpO/s320/P1130302.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 22pt; line-height: 107%;">H</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">ow many times have you read it? The
harvest in process and the ensuing data regarding the weather, the quantity and
the quality that inevitably leads to an initial prediction that this year will
be the wine of the decade? Wine of the century? Greatest of all time?</span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">Recently I looked back over a slew of articles, going
back forty years, and read something similar to that. At the time, I’m sure
many of the journalists thought, indeed, that they were reporting an accurate
assessment. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">What I find curious, though, over time, is that the “lesser”
vintages, the ones not thought to be so great, actually delivered wonderful
vinous experiences. That probably indicates that my interaction with the wine
might have had less to do with the climatological conditions of past than the
present conditions of my perceptual and emotional being.<span></span></span></p><a name='more'></a><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSECFanLPI_QoRMzgdm1h0cqB_N_yF4XtdoHhAets1L6_l1nvOZDd_lYOJGWgI-B6s1OLgyZ1m6ByZ6I6o3HXtWgJcZZoyrEYsytx0F7gRRp0i7kzz9-CBFVQWkVNyO4M4tDPtL3rcODyrVT3JlzG8JLK8CTNF9S19Kjy21E59iA8b1cU4TVZV/s3888/P1130308.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3888" data-original-width="3888" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSECFanLPI_QoRMzgdm1h0cqB_N_yF4XtdoHhAets1L6_l1nvOZDd_lYOJGWgI-B6s1OLgyZ1m6ByZ6I6o3HXtWgJcZZoyrEYsytx0F7gRRp0i7kzz9-CBFVQWkVNyO4M4tDPtL3rcODyrVT3JlzG8JLK8CTNF9S19Kjy21E59iA8b1cU4TVZV/s320/P1130308.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><br />I’ve written about this a time or two in recent posts.
That the experiences, the setting, the people, the food, the personal sense of
well-being contributes to the wine at hand and how one appreciates it in the
moment.</span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">Which, for me, throws out much of the prognostication
about wine. Or at least, the hype.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">Look, I’m not drinking as much wine as I once did,
when I was actively involved in the wine trade. Oh, and I was also younger, my
body was more forgiving. Now the thought of a thirty-year vertical tasting
gives me convulsions. Too much of a good thing? Or as we age, does our need for
exorbitance dissipate?</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">I recently saw a photograph of Frank Sinatra and Bono
at a legendary steakhouse in my old home town, Palm Springs. Frank was 78 years
old and he was puffing on a cigarette. I thought it an odd thing. An elderly
man, smoking a cigarette in a bar while waiting on his table. I don’t know why
it struck me so. I mean, I enjoy the occasional cigar, key word, being occasional.
But as a habitual practice?</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">Not to equate smoking with wine drinking, although one
could make the argument that both have their fair share of toxicity. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiDE-Z25t5YgGjuitzwpIAWKnxJ8LdtcpvDxCS2HH-Cc7DPa3QVnImuyOr3QWAneaK13I-vm9xdXdVudBBYC_YU6qDHNT4GYShaFDcqqxM2w3HNMajgIX4a09h2vw5-2o3qUH_F4q7cz4LHkhU8Jmhijvj50RFNxvHDmCDZe5rj3-mtWHCWC0_/s3888/P1130364.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3888" data-original-width="3888" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiDE-Z25t5YgGjuitzwpIAWKnxJ8LdtcpvDxCS2HH-Cc7DPa3QVnImuyOr3QWAneaK13I-vm9xdXdVudBBYC_YU6qDHNT4GYShaFDcqqxM2w3HNMajgIX4a09h2vw5-2o3qUH_F4q7cz4LHkhU8Jmhijvj50RFNxvHDmCDZe5rj3-mtWHCWC0_/s320/P1130364.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><br />I reckon that moderation might be a prerequisite to
enjoyment of anything that could become dangerous to one’s health. Skydiving
comes to mind. Bungy jumping too.</span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">But wine is supposed to be beneficial. That’s what
folks have been telling us for forty years or more. Wine is good for you, they
say.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">Again, I’m thinking about the quality of the experience
more than the actual quality of the wine. A wine that a famous critic gives 98
points versus one that gets only 89.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">I’ve written about aged wines lately. But what is in
my mind today isn’t about the age of a wine. And it seems it isn’t about the
degree of buildup it gets in the press. No, I am diving into different waters
here. The Chinese call it the Doctrine of the Mean, or Zhongyong.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBwrHt4YVEJ_pvQJbBE7BXL1FqGHYSl-wNtSJS7b3dN-Djvsii7cfX21dIFCd_BxaOBm1RAP0nSHEbVdkZqdvQbs4RHUXJIsszoJdwjkqy2IHeLwH9zrQmc7vsCAL1ke5sojeYHqEUsvAGTW1H1MV7h3BT_1lo4LRlnAwwefKyCE_rf5GZGPtb/s3476/P1130337.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3476" data-original-width="3476" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBwrHt4YVEJ_pvQJbBE7BXL1FqGHYSl-wNtSJS7b3dN-Djvsii7cfX21dIFCd_BxaOBm1RAP0nSHEbVdkZqdvQbs4RHUXJIsszoJdwjkqy2IHeLwH9zrQmc7vsCAL1ke5sojeYHqEUsvAGTW1H1MV7h3BT_1lo4LRlnAwwefKyCE_rf5GZGPtb/s320/P1130337.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><br />It’s a middle ground between the extremes, the water
that I am wading into. And I find the subtlety fascinating. </span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">More wines open up to me from more harvests. It feels
expansive but not in a materialistic manner. I feel it in art, in music, in
cooking, in relationships. Less is more? Not really. It isn’t about less or
more. Like I said, for me, it’s a middle ground.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">So, when I read those pieces that tout the great
vintage of 20_ _, I feel a detachment from those words. Maybe I’ve died. But it
doesn’t interest me these days. <br /></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">For one, they haven’t always rung true. But more to
the point, those kinds of parameters just aren’t what I’m looking for in an experience
with wine. I’m looking in other corners of the world of wine, and especially
with regards to Italian wine, there are many corners. Or, rabbit holes. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">All this to say, while my world has gotten smaller,
the macro-view has presented me with a whole new universe. It’s a bit quieter,
a bit calmer, for my present needs. It’s revelatory. Important? Maybe not so
much. After all, the greatest of all time is always changing in our world. Look
at the greatest actors, artists, musicians, fighters, warriors, countries,
lovers, you name it, from 50, 100, 500 years ago. And look at them now. Things change.
</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">He says, as he jumps, again, into the abyss.</span></p> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQIT_xtjOJQDrtfLct2jnC3MwL69AcCkS4Q2Dc02sy4czE7p2L7QeSHYCaFpjsGpbTsY_veLWnXpdcC_wy5Zzkzq1tZpXNG87XK7J2TkyEXHvIxP5DMRxlr5w9-1vpvFFEoJ2YwJGBR8dFh-u-LXmepwdWjPvzVqIQnCwurw8n-126gB0lRNm_/s3904/P1130305.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3904" data-original-width="3904" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQIT_xtjOJQDrtfLct2jnC3MwL69AcCkS4Q2Dc02sy4czE7p2L7QeSHYCaFpjsGpbTsY_veLWnXpdcC_wy5Zzkzq1tZpXNG87XK7J2TkyEXHvIxP5DMRxlr5w9-1vpvFFEoJ2YwJGBR8dFh-u-LXmepwdWjPvzVqIQnCwurw8n-126gB0lRNm_/s320/P1130305.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /> <span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span><div class="by-line"><span style="font-size: small;">© written and photographed by <a href="http://www.blogger.com/profile/16983431475848714789">Alfonso Cevola</a></span><span style="font-size: small;"> limited rights reserved <a href="http://acevola.blogspot.com/">On the Wine Trail in Italy</a></span> </div>
<div style="color: white;">
wine blog + Italian wine blog + Italy W</div>
Alfonso Cevolahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16983431475848714789noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20283310.post-76526738570809414092023-11-05T22:21:00.003-06:002023-11-05T22:21:30.533-06:00Remember Me? I'm Your Brother<i>From the archives: <a href="https://acevola.blogspot.com/2013/11/remember-me-im-your-brother.html" target="_blank">Grappling among the Offshoots ~ Gaglioppo and Nerello Mascalese </a></i><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sYw9vXYkaXg/Una8Baul1yI/AAAAAAAAX7s/AqBogIZhu5g/s1600/trees.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sYw9vXYkaXg/Una8Baul1yI/AAAAAAAAX7s/AqBogIZhu5g/s400/trees.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">I</span></span><span style="font-size: medium;">’m the one who played tag with you and listened to you sing and play the piano. I’m the one who fell, more than once, sometimes just to the earth and sometimes out of sight. I’m your brother.<br /></span>
<span style="font-size: medium;"><br />
In the vineyards, when the grapes were full, you called from afar to pick the ripe ones for wine. You made pasta and poured red wine and gave shelter for the time. And when the harvest was over you bid adieu, until the next time you were in need. You paid just enough to make it through the winter. <br /></span>
<a name='more'></a><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-L3p4Tvy4ME0/UnbA-3ojZ9I/AAAAAAAAX8Q/MMsqL63qUgU/s1600/family+eating.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-L3p4Tvy4ME0/UnbA-3ojZ9I/AAAAAAAAX8Q/MMsqL63qUgU/s320/family+eating.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;">When I was little, you were grown-up. You led. I followed. And I followed you to the edge of the mist and then you disappeared. When I traveled to another land, our only connection was through our veins and our memories.<br /></span>
<span style="font-size: medium;"><br />
Years later, when I stumbled and fell, you picked me up and brought me back. When I was healthy you sent me back out again into the fog. It was there I had to survive or die. I wouldn’t take another grafting.<br /></span>
<span style="font-size: medium;"><br />
When I finally laid down my roots, in a place where my roots were never meant to take, it was years of day and night, heat and cold, year after year. It would never make for greatness, not like in the places from where we came or where our grandparents came. It wasn’t stellar, but it was steady. <br /></span>
<span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2DkThnYBpeM/UnbBYhIHfFI/AAAAAAAAX8Y/iBGZuOu4fIQ/s1600/santo+spirito+and+etna+in+back.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2DkThnYBpeM/UnbBYhIHfFI/AAAAAAAAX8Y/iBGZuOu4fIQ/s400/santo+spirito+and+etna+in+back.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;">When the little ones around us grew and took to going their own ways, I’d wait under the sun and the moon to hear from you, hoping, wishing we still had a connection. After all, I’m your brother.<br /></span>
<span style="font-size: medium;"><br />
As your sign ascended ever higher and higher, and mine had me going deeper and deeper, I wondered how we came from the same parents. You sought light and peace. I sought depth and understanding. Our philosophies diverged ever so much more, greater and greater grew the gulf. <br /></span>
<span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-D0KrgScqYq8/Una8wTw7T7I/AAAAAAAAX78/PGKqT8qpOcg/s1600/Calabria+vineyard+site+1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-D0KrgScqYq8/Una8wTw7T7I/AAAAAAAAX78/PGKqT8qpOcg/s400/Calabria+vineyard+site+1.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;">It was as if we were from two different universes. Yours was on the top of the hill, full of attention and drama. Mine was on the corner of a slope somewhere, hoping for a little more light before the sun set. Pushing out a little more of the fruit and the passion. <br /></span>
<span style="font-size: medium;"><br />
You probably thought I was still the baby. After all, I came last and who knows if I wasn’t a mistake, an afterthought. But here I was, filling up the ridge with my tendrils, reaching where? I did not know.<br /></span>
<span style="font-size: medium;"><br />
Now we are all older, even the offspring. Now the days are shorter. And fewer. And still we’re a million miles from where we started. And a million more from each other. Remember me? I’m your brother.<br /></span>
<span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SuvfRmm5d70/Una8rgpaXCI/AAAAAAAAX70/HPYOOlaL2-E/s1600/aglianico.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SuvfRmm5d70/Una8rgpaXCI/AAAAAAAAX70/HPYOOlaL2-E/s320/aglianico.jpg" width="318" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="by-line"><span style="font-size: small;">written and photographed by <a href="http://www.blogger.com/profile/16983431475848714789">Alfonso Cevola</a></span><span style="font-size: small;"> limited rights reserved <a href="http://acevola.blogspot.com/">On the Wine Trail in Italy</a></span> </div><div style="color: white;">wine blog + Italian wine blog + Italy W</div>Alfonso Cevolahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16983431475848714789noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20283310.post-5146594035861022912023-10-29T13:27:00.003-05:002023-10-29T16:06:12.385-05:00Bidding Adieu to a Longtime Friend<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 20pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 20pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitbDAtrTIH6TGErQLgEy9rlK2O6zsHbT5H81YG6LRPerWEqXG8I72YMa6wNwFMVooFrIoNb8K3pWMv-UTYi0_5daqUaMG_T5D2Kdsc6okm1zPszTbeIQ6x70D9RFn_XH79QMGbK4yJ6OF0aGH4QEvwPfwd1CzE2vlf5L_dI9M3aMFTJOhhmpZM/s493/de267497f076f5b5fc2142684d43a7f18250f96a-1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="493" data-original-width="487" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitbDAtrTIH6TGErQLgEy9rlK2O6zsHbT5H81YG6LRPerWEqXG8I72YMa6wNwFMVooFrIoNb8K3pWMv-UTYi0_5daqUaMG_T5D2Kdsc6okm1zPszTbeIQ6x70D9RFn_XH79QMGbK4yJ6OF0aGH4QEvwPfwd1CzE2vlf5L_dI9M3aMFTJOhhmpZM/s320/de267497f076f5b5fc2142684d43a7f18250f96a-1.jpg" width="316" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 20pt; line-height: 107%;">L</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">ately, <a href="https://acevola.blogspot.com/2023/09/celebrating-two-giants-from-california.html" target="_blank">on the blog</a> and IRL I’ve been
opening up elderly bottles from the wine closet. Part of that stems from an analysis
I did of the wines in the closet, and found that 25% of the wines in there were
over 25 years old. While that might be magical words for some wine collectors,
to me it caused a sense of dread on two fronts. Firstly, that old wines tend to
get even older if not opened. And as we see from elderly humans, not all get
old in the same way. Secondly some of those wines 25 years or older (especially from the 1990's) I remember putting them in there on release and wondering when and if they’d
ever be ready.</span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Well, did I get a wake-up call on that! Seems that a
majority of red wines 25 years and older are either ready, sick or dying. Or
already dead. And it happened faster than I thought it would. So much for my
glorious wine collecting aspirations from youth. These bottles are like
tattoos. Some of them worked and some of them didn’t. But all of them were an
oblique reference to an earlier me and my state of mind. Fortunately, an off
bottle of Barolo is easier to dispose of than a faulty tattoo of Jerry Garcia.<span></span></span></p><a name='more'></a><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkNUZBccn6VhQzM8F7QtKmsEXblR_0IyiUdlT9o50xwswcTaZxZR2v0rOGFIK9eNdgwbrjC9NYLkyzRc5CO21L4FK37hcdwuWvIS7kjujMhey7ozPHh8tGorYK8cuF0G1WmSwxDBzv_jDPtJapbt6SXdZ6Q5ohkCzSWjDQAAt4SCV3NGBM7D5I/s400/last%20johnson.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="267" data-original-width="400" height="268" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkNUZBccn6VhQzM8F7QtKmsEXblR_0IyiUdlT9o50xwswcTaZxZR2v0rOGFIK9eNdgwbrjC9NYLkyzRc5CO21L4FK37hcdwuWvIS7kjujMhey7ozPHh8tGorYK8cuF0G1WmSwxDBzv_jDPtJapbt6SXdZ6Q5ohkCzSWjDQAAt4SCV3NGBM7D5I/w400-h268/last%20johnson.JPG" width="400" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br />I remember my first case I bought, in 1980, to collect
and taste over the years. It was a 1976 Johnson’s Alexander Valley Cabernet
Sauvignon. The sommelier at the Italian restaurant I worked at, Il Sorrento,
thought it was a good wine and she was selling it off the menu. I tried it and
liked it and so she arranged for me to get a case. Thus started my road to wine
collecting. Over the years I would open up a bottle and try it. And the years
just flew by, 32 of them. And then there was only one bottle left. That already
was 11 years ago, so do you kind get where this is going? </span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Anyway, the other day I opened up a 1980 Château-Figeac,
at the time a Premier Grand Cru St. Emilion (it is now a Premier Grand Cru Classé
A). 1980 was not a great year for the <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>area. However, when we opened the wine, it apparently
had not gotten the memo, for while it was fully mature, it was shiny and bright
and lasted several hours in the bottle without any signs of senility or
collapse.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Which brings me to a roundabout in the road, and that would
be: our human friends that we collect forms one’s community and to an extent a sense
of your place on this earth.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_qz3fuifLuck4ZK6s6gIKgdJU3gBg8CA_3NIclfBmLp-l1gCpx5XPEzgzmysIemDFBOGBMN2pCwMKojEzfXskJg8JKV6Oh_AxDiYo1B2-Q6FEa_9zPKI-RGgCBQEpnsnXx2IIlYG3AbrBdT6-ueeHabzrOLqKOrY-wIA-F9af9tvcIDow7ckB/s1172/ea6a3f05328d62a095dcdffde82a9cb82b89b1ab-1%20copy%20copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1172" data-original-width="1172" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_qz3fuifLuck4ZK6s6gIKgdJU3gBg8CA_3NIclfBmLp-l1gCpx5XPEzgzmysIemDFBOGBMN2pCwMKojEzfXskJg8JKV6Oh_AxDiYo1B2-Q6FEa_9zPKI-RGgCBQEpnsnXx2IIlYG3AbrBdT6-ueeHabzrOLqKOrY-wIA-F9af9tvcIDow7ckB/s320/ea6a3f05328d62a095dcdffde82a9cb82b89b1ab-1%20copy%20copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br />Yesterday, I ran into the friend that gave (not
gifted) me that bottle. He was buying a couple of bottles of Italian wine to
have around. I thought it odd, because I was under the impression that he had
stopped drinking wine. Hence why that odd bottle of St. Emilion and a few other geriatric buddies found their way
into my wine closet. Anyway, I proceeded to help him find a couple of bottles,
just in case.</span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">He and I are longtime friends, someone I’ve traveled
with and someone I truly love. In the past we’ve had amazing meals together (his
wife is an amazing cook) matched with wines from our respected “cellars” at the
time. But a few years ago, he gave wine up, because of a neurological condition,
and told me to come over and fetch all his wines and take them to my home. Which
I did.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">What I am learning about aging, as a human, is that
there comes a stage in everyone’s life when it’s time to “drink up.” Not just
wines, as it happens. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxSGiMLgpJ_WaQlcltNpjPiZFG8LYHxAitx3BwNsg2jhpKEgFFrAYxw0HBFc282LXuQGT5ve9wv-JreRo6DhPUEhON9-nle_jyr1fpzl8L-Vgm71BqSWWeVfGYJ0jk5c8mjCXCRp7aaWfFbNM07s_icbPg-GngAq0kI4kmhyphenhyphenveCtAC_hahRVx1/s489/9dc9104150e977e50a5dc910f08bb50f2c561a70-1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="489" data-original-width="466" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxSGiMLgpJ_WaQlcltNpjPiZFG8LYHxAitx3BwNsg2jhpKEgFFrAYxw0HBFc282LXuQGT5ve9wv-JreRo6DhPUEhON9-nle_jyr1fpzl8L-Vgm71BqSWWeVfGYJ0jk5c8mjCXCRp7aaWfFbNM07s_icbPg-GngAq0kI4kmhyphenhyphenveCtAC_hahRVx1/s320/9dc9104150e977e50a5dc910f08bb50f2c561a70-1.jpg" width="305" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br />Some of us age better than others, and occasionally,
like the 1980 Figeac, an outlier makes it past the experts and gains the odds
and turns out to be fabulous find. </span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Likewise, with friends, that kind of discovery can be
a marvelous part of why we came here in this life to live on earth, even if for
only a brief moment in time.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">I dislike saying goodbye to people and places I love.
But I am finding, as with my wine cellar, that in real life saying goodbye is
becoming more of a regular thing. Goodbye to wines, goodbye to things like
clothes and furniture and cameras and watches and money. But also good bye to
living things, like plants and pets. And people.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Yesterday I was talking to my friend as he was getting
into his car to go home. He mentioned that his life had been a good ride. I
agreed with him. He did things I couldn’t even begin to dream about doing. But
I lived, sometimes vicariously, through his adventures. We bandy about the word
journey these days like it’s a common thing. But my friend has had an amazing
journey on this planet. And he has darn likely seen almost every nook and cranny on earth. So, while his “drink by” date is approaching a little more rapidly
than for others, like I told him, we’re are all gonna get there sooner or
later. “You had a great ride, but who’s to say the ride on the other side isn’t
going to be even more thrilling and breathtaking?” Hey, even that St. Emilion
can’t hope for that. Its ride is now over. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">That’s what I’ve been percolating over. Enjoy your
wines while you got ‘em. And enjoy and love your friends even more.<br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYFTCVCzYlF8ShfFf7LcJYz9yn1xErrQRYOwMcHm9VHM9mvwuTCRvWF3e0pJkUz-c-EwFZ_gYHES4XW9MmHdXdGqXw6bluSIo1-Iik6Ahg236-VbnDpwz0dDmPxj7MPL5-OrvR6Q942DxVbh2r3FZfobwCFjV59ZC-bWDrGdayrF5-A_LFxhq7/s777/margrit%20and%20peter.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="682" data-original-width="777" height="281" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYFTCVCzYlF8ShfFf7LcJYz9yn1xErrQRYOwMcHm9VHM9mvwuTCRvWF3e0pJkUz-c-EwFZ_gYHES4XW9MmHdXdGqXw6bluSIo1-Iik6Ahg236-VbnDpwz0dDmPxj7MPL5-OrvR6Q942DxVbh2r3FZfobwCFjV59ZC-bWDrGdayrF5-A_LFxhq7/s320/margrit%20and%20peter.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"> <br /></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p>
<div class="by-line"><span style="font-size: small;">© written and photographed by <a href="http://www.blogger.com/profile/16983431475848714789">Alfonso Cevola</a></span><span style="font-size: small;"> limited rights reserved <a href="http://acevola.blogspot.com/">On the Wine Trail in Italy</a></span> </div>
<div style="color: white;">
wine blog + Italian wine blog + Italy W</div>
Alfonso Cevolahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16983431475848714789noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20283310.post-32128129030853823502023-10-22T13:03:00.038-05:002023-10-23T06:31:57.845-05:00Interviewing Italian Wine - The Moment When Everything Changed <p class="MsoNormal"><i><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 22pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></i></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><i></i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVf3X8jylG-j1tq7J6Hqf9rR9nOOgNCtMOlN3uMzTeymAovgujbMMynoiV8qDFsodeTsgS5fHD_RsfJLhLUM52F4NpV8EGE8HHI9xXroZ6BDFIMOsxQL9zTLSNGEfp6Ge0KKYxWOII9m1fdFN8vr8oiDkkXucnE3HfDHO3Za319MlKTT5k9zjd/s864/P1080971sm.jpg" style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 22pt; font-style: italic; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="864" data-original-width="864" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVf3X8jylG-j1tq7J6Hqf9rR9nOOgNCtMOlN3uMzTeymAovgujbMMynoiV8qDFsodeTsgS5fHD_RsfJLhLUM52F4NpV8EGE8HHI9xXroZ6BDFIMOsxQL9zTLSNGEfp6Ge0KKYxWOII9m1fdFN8vr8oiDkkXucnE3HfDHO3Za319MlKTT5k9zjd/s320/P1080971sm.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><i><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 22pt; line-height: 107%;">I</span></i><i><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">talian culture is
a timeless and ongoing revolution. Wine has been swept up in that benevolent
maelstrom. Thus, it seems like a good time to revisit our old friend, Italian Wine,
and interview them. Over several long lunches and a myriad of bottles opened,
young and old, this interview has been streamlined for today’s attention span
deficient society. However, this process has been going on for hundreds of
years. Glad for you to dip in.</span></i><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Q: Ciao, and thank you for joining us. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">IW: Niente, you’re most welcome.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Q: Let’s jump right in. Did you notice an inflection
point, a moment of illumination, internal/external, when your awareness changed
(when you awoke to the meaning/ direction in your process), was there an event
that changed or was there something that took place, internally, that happened?</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">IW: Wow, a long question with not a short answer. But
I will try and explain. As you know, we’ve been around for hundreds, if not
thousands, of years, in some form or another. But realistically, it wasn’t until
the 20<sup>th</sup> century that wine, in general, took on a more rapid
evolution. It seems to have coincided with the technological changes the world
was undergoing. But there was also a new energy coming from the earth, a novel
expression of life, that was being captured in the vines. It was as if the
earth was awakening from a long sleep. And Italy is more than blessed to be an
epicenter of the world’s energy, or so the Italians like to think. And maybe
that is so. In any case, the momentum right after World War II gave impetus to the
most rapid set of changes in Italian (and I daresay the world) wine creation. Technology,
rebuilding a world that was destroyed by war, economic investment, more rapid and
efficient forms of communication and transportation, and the desire to get back
to life and living, by the humans, gave us hope in the ground. The long sleep
was over and a new dawn was upon us.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So,
I hope that begins to answer our question, although there could be a book
written about that subject.<span></span></span></p><a name='more'></a><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSUma3Q1NpkCN3yxrG6foIGglZCciAW6nB-RUXWFze6ABWT_QrXOBU5LkEqkFqv7t8F4skpTeuXzl64iF-ijD5aS-w9kf6T8680h-F_xb6K8rq_HubEYrORRPw_hyVa7FpRshKoKJ-0XSVdf56zcExrfm3ByNakroqHczV89i6-pLXamnwjiLZ/s3888/P1080796.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3888" data-original-width="3888" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSUma3Q1NpkCN3yxrG6foIGglZCciAW6nB-RUXWFze6ABWT_QrXOBU5LkEqkFqv7t8F4skpTeuXzl64iF-ijD5aS-w9kf6T8680h-F_xb6K8rq_HubEYrORRPw_hyVa7FpRshKoKJ-0XSVdf56zcExrfm3ByNakroqHczV89i6-pLXamnwjiLZ/s320/P1080796.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br />Q: Yes, yes, understood. But was there a pivotal
moment, an “Aha!” flash when it seemed so clear that something had
fundamentally changed?</span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">IW: Well, not so much one lightning bolt but a long storm,
say from the late 1950’s until the mid-1980’s. When the winemakers in Piedmont
and Tuscany started elevating their expectations, people like Piero Antinori
and Angelo Gaja, and presenting a higher level of Italian wine, much like wine
lovers had come to expect from the French and French wine, then a lightbulb did
go off. But not without a lot of preparation. And that’s not to say those two
gentlemen alone made the revolution. They might have been two of the most
visible faces, but alongside them was an army of men and women, in the fields,
in the labs, in the wineries, in the importation companies and on the front
lines, with the consumers, to pull the message all the way to the wine-lovers-in-waiting.
But technology played a huge part.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Also, Italy stopped apologizing for their wines and
stopped being the lowest common denominator. Always wanting to please, Italians
would give you the shirt off their back. But this was a different mode. We were
talking about the evolution and ultimately the survival of Italian wine
culture. In that time, France was still very strong and countries like Spain,
Australia and America were constructing their own battles for the heart (and
the wallets) of the wine drinker.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitJqoWxeTLtsBVnnAQSdp-jrF5v75aXcsBmuZPY4vrqgviLT7hf0Lr-t3_eq36mZ1PDNUV4wfj_NV4sUCV8GGX9hQqUygLAMbK9oYcoSzoatv4hJOw7f4aLZwN-VojKCSdXx0s7-4frDYyy7mgDgMu9ckeCJ_UMZIwke7l7mSL8Ymz96eGUFCf/s3888/P1040327.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3888" data-original-width="3888" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitJqoWxeTLtsBVnnAQSdp-jrF5v75aXcsBmuZPY4vrqgviLT7hf0Lr-t3_eq36mZ1PDNUV4wfj_NV4sUCV8GGX9hQqUygLAMbK9oYcoSzoatv4hJOw7f4aLZwN-VojKCSdXx0s7-4frDYyy7mgDgMu9ckeCJ_UMZIwke7l7mSL8Ymz96eGUFCf/s320/P1040327.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br />Q: Yes, I see that. But what was it about Italy that
made such a radical transformation?</span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">IW: Well, Italy was becoming more affluent, rising up
from the abject poverty that came as a result of a disastrous war in which we
were involved. And the war was fought on our land, so everyone and every living
thing suffered. Seneca once said, “Find a path or make one.” The huge influx of aid
and capital (some might call it the Marshall Plan) helped to restore and really
modernize the infrastructure of Italy. Look at the cinema of the late 1950’s-early
1960’s. It was as if Italy became Oz. Everyone was walking around in ruby
slippers and going out to eat and drink. And Italian wine was part of the
glamourous makeover of Italy.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Q: So, the late 1950’s-early 1960’s was a flashpoint
in time. Any other time slots?</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">IW: Well, the early 1980’s saw a revolution in
winemaking. The use of small barrels (barriques) for reds, mainly, and the cold
fermentation of whites, resulting from a technological impetus in the Veneto,
places like Conegliano and Treviso, which had a large concentration of interest
in modernization and mechanization. It was a two-pronged affair. Red wines
became able to be compared with Bordeaux and Burgundy reds. The default for white
wines was no longer flabby and accidentally oxidized. Refrigerated containers
also helped to assure the wines arrived in tip-top condition. It was a benign conspiracy
on the part of Italian scientists, winemakers, wine marketers and land owners.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">And it didn’t end there. The 1990’s and on into the 21<sup>st</sup>
century elaborated on the advances and sought to refine, refine, refine.
Italians started traveling the world, again, and seeing what was being done in
other places, and also sharing their ideas. Along with that came the rise of
the Internet age, and with it, ease of communication and better sharing of information.
Word got out – Italian wine was no longer the pitiful poor-child of the wine
world. Like the fashion and the food and the cars and the art, and so on,
Italian wine was elevated to a more appropriate position in the world. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvA3kiYGDMYVDYVad0aR1xWXZwxvWpreDaqIWICbzftMXWR6zlwykf6cN2b5nfxlmHJ1JSgKilno1-Ll5xKpvG_SnmYOGR8v4gWeSBuiPpm0tmmgCgI_3pJWrqbISuIL7rTPahd6mLD2ncunWj1X0WRW87WOR0cE-Qj7NcAvVIf64nsOTG35Ug/s3865/P1080866.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3865" data-original-width="3865" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvA3kiYGDMYVDYVad0aR1xWXZwxvWpreDaqIWICbzftMXWR6zlwykf6cN2b5nfxlmHJ1JSgKilno1-Ll5xKpvG_SnmYOGR8v4gWeSBuiPpm0tmmgCgI_3pJWrqbISuIL7rTPahd6mLD2ncunWj1X0WRW87WOR0cE-Qj7NcAvVIf64nsOTG35Ug/s320/P1080866.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>Q: So,</span> <span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">how do you think you have
changed the world?</span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">IW: Well, we do not apologize for being great anymore.
We don’t down sell our efforts, and I like to think that raises everything
around it. People want to compete with the best, and if we strive to be the
best, while also looking to compete with the best in the world, wine wins! Did
we save wine, all by ourselves? No. France, California, Australia, and
countless other wine producing countries have all been enhanced in the last 70
years. So, maybe we didn’t change the world, but the world changed anyway. And
we were there. We are still there, working to make it even better.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">I must say this: While Italian wine can be the best
and sometimes very expensive, there is a huge reservoir of wholesome, good and delicious
wine from Italy that can be enjoyed by people who aren’t billionaires. That is
one of the great strengths of Italian wine - a democratization of sorts. Very important
to note this. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQELYsskDTF-dghnHB5vnTACKfV04X3by65JLxtjOBs89lJ1x1MskBOwUzMwin4DnOLiVhM2Hfge5mXMyI-DfKmg1vdilkqNYgzzWwL5Y5AewUmTwoEFfbWLmMhyDzRacaYG4hPEcX7DzBWw56rpqXsRxyOLKxK7PNuu2DzOBh_URIC-v1ZWFJ/s3381/P1040516.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3381" data-original-width="3332" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQELYsskDTF-dghnHB5vnTACKfV04X3by65JLxtjOBs89lJ1x1MskBOwUzMwin4DnOLiVhM2Hfge5mXMyI-DfKmg1vdilkqNYgzzWwL5Y5AewUmTwoEFfbWLmMhyDzRacaYG4hPEcX7DzBWw56rpqXsRxyOLKxK7PNuu2DzOBh_URIC-v1ZWFJ/s320/P1040516.JPG" width="315" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br />Q: Last question. The road not taken – was there one? If
so, do you have feelings about the road not taken (regrets/relief)? And, if so,
is there anything you would have done differently? Last words?</span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">IW: I don’t think the road is set in concrete, to mix
metaphors. Maybe it’s more like the young ones call it, a journey. Is the journey
over? No way! In a sense, it’s just begun. After what, 2-3-4-5,000 years of
winemaking, it’s all over in just 70? I think the wine gods would have
something to say about that.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Done differently? Well, I think the <i>“laboratory for
doing things differently”</i> is open and busy. Just look at some of the wines
that are coming out of Italy, along with the traditional and modern wines.
Again, in a nod to the more youthful members of our community, they are
experimenting with some of the ancestral methods to see what is there, and if
it has relevance within the pantheon of Italian wine today.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">You see, Italians are not made of only one stone. We
like an array of things. Look at our pastas, our cheeses, our salumi. You see where
I am going with this?</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">By no means, is there one way or one wine. There are
good wines that are delicious and thrilling to love. But like love, isn’t it always
in the eye of the beholder?</span></p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-HJ_u6XezZ1eJGvTytZHSalwFJX5x-gx4gucsnBFBkdC98QuFmL_gbXhJ5J5UyDy4iIGoc-MaAKJh8Posj45BHA6Mvs4TkyzJF4UHg-7dgUkQYTC6Xh86zqnjLd7_MTrL31e35r3rGqYFZ5aSCT6nlzwoFPlxEAulGu_MYSN0TW5k5-73y7Fp/s3652/P1080821.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3652" data-original-width="3652" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-HJ_u6XezZ1eJGvTytZHSalwFJX5x-gx4gucsnBFBkdC98QuFmL_gbXhJ5J5UyDy4iIGoc-MaAKJh8Posj45BHA6Mvs4TkyzJF4UHg-7dgUkQYTC6Xh86zqnjLd7_MTrL31e35r3rGqYFZ5aSCT6nlzwoFPlxEAulGu_MYSN0TW5k5-73y7Fp/s320/P1080821.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>
<div class="by-line"><span style="font-size: small;"> </span></div><div class="by-line"><span style="font-size: small;">© written and photographed by <a href="http://www.blogger.com/profile/16983431475848714789">Alfonso Cevola</a></span><span style="font-size: small;"> limited rights reserved <a href="http://acevola.blogspot.com/">On the Wine Trail in Italy</a></span> </div>
<div style="color: white;">
wine blog + Italian wine blog + Italy W</div>
Alfonso Cevolahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16983431475848714789noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20283310.post-76361368797542147602023-10-15T13:51:00.002-05:002023-10-16T05:56:25.248-05:00The Battle for Wine – Symbolic vs. Economic Value <div><i style="color: #666666;">“When, and under what emotional pressure, does a memory shift from being a reliable account of something to a story that we tell ourselves about what we wish had occurred?</i><span style="color: #666666;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: right;"><span style="color: #666666;">– Anthony Lane reviewing the film, “Anatomy of a Fall” </span></div><div style="text-align: right;"><span style="color: #666666;"> </span><br /></div><div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUtpAR4lMh9ile0PxdEAFroXWTc7h7ZYmBmNavJ9a-c5jRM_MxZlruxoCu4l6LtZDle-J6RPofDoxXbezNzCV9n55CVMDczzPrSejKIQEEktg8Frm1-NPfWuodNhtOsiPI-_KqGLdfnoCQTB-1Bj9raxQ3GfUEQaunyeV9TBpiB6SI51KWHKNw/s4070/DSC_0842.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2703" data-original-width="4070" height="286" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUtpAR4lMh9ile0PxdEAFroXWTc7h7ZYmBmNavJ9a-c5jRM_MxZlruxoCu4l6LtZDle-J6RPofDoxXbezNzCV9n55CVMDczzPrSejKIQEEktg8Frm1-NPfWuodNhtOsiPI-_KqGLdfnoCQTB-1Bj9raxQ3GfUEQaunyeV9TBpiB6SI51KWHKNw/w430-h286/DSC_0842.JPG" width="430" /></a></span></i></div><i><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></i><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 20pt; line-height: 107%;">A</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">s with almost anything on planet
Earth these days, wine is also experiencing conflict. Mostly from dueling
perspectives and accounts about what wine is. Throw in a dollop of
virtuousness, a sprinkle of inexperience, a teaspoon of youthful confidence and
a cup of the shifting of cultures, and right before your eyes all the tried and
true, the mainstays, the fundamental market movers, shift in their relevance.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">A young writer friend who I admire put it this way: <i>“I
sometimes feel like there’s the actual wine market and what moves it, and then
there’s the tiny bubble that a small number of cool kids in NYC and LA think is
cool. Which has symbolic value, but actual economic value? Not so much, I
guess!”<span></span></i></span></p><a name='more'></a><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS_3dVSUs75j199BNNWPNorvkF-oELkLNiShPnbUCtSnkWoCa0OkmsNmXppy69pEk6jxZLpGBtcAc9Ydt04P2jCzr3TUq6ABBOGTYwY5oshVvprx_iprEwH9wZypDwcbTtqpg76KZaODTRCPDe9a3197EhkeXp7yPRxDlID5UYZ6yza4Dco6kQ/s3988/AMC_1468.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3988" data-original-width="3988" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS_3dVSUs75j199BNNWPNorvkF-oELkLNiShPnbUCtSnkWoCa0OkmsNmXppy69pEk6jxZLpGBtcAc9Ydt04P2jCzr3TUq6ABBOGTYwY5oshVvprx_iprEwH9wZypDwcbTtqpg76KZaODTRCPDe9a3197EhkeXp7yPRxDlID5UYZ6yza4Dco6kQ/s320/AMC_1468.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">When I read that in a recent message, it succinctly
outlined the conflict in the world of wine – the symbolic versus the economic
significance in today’s evolving wine culture.</span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">We were talking about the economic powerhouse that
Bordeaux is, but how minor its influence is with the up-and-coming wine
professionals. Oh, I get it. Bordeaux, for what seems like forever, is seen as an
elite white male patriarchal polestar in the world of wine.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFafUsPy5bVdcA1z2Vz_OfaA_cmfQlUblxsrjGs9B-wOVbguasMKhmpaiH2axLIF0JQTl2G-UnxA9VVHxEtbb8H2pL8J6CMtcf2oBc2kLLmuYe8JKNxG25_bCYhxAGXcsMHFJPqAGjXalI6YTiwxaXFQkQAO2cYzhD3pL6y8Ah4aWHw3sV8r0U/s3464/DSC_1104.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2326" data-original-width="3464" height="269" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFafUsPy5bVdcA1z2Vz_OfaA_cmfQlUblxsrjGs9B-wOVbguasMKhmpaiH2axLIF0JQTl2G-UnxA9VVHxEtbb8H2pL8J6CMtcf2oBc2kLLmuYe8JKNxG25_bCYhxAGXcsMHFJPqAGjXalI6YTiwxaXFQkQAO2cYzhD3pL6y8Ah4aWHw3sV8r0U/w400-h269/DSC_1104.JPG" width="400" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><br />But consider this: take the five first growths of
Bordeaux. And factor in their yearly production of wine, at the highest level. Then
take into account what those wines will sell for when futures are offered. Now
also take into consideration one of those properties, Latour, doesn’t play in
that sandbox exactly the same way as the other four do, but they ultimately
will move their product as well. </span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">Now, think about this: in a good year, those five
properties conservatively and collectively generate half a billion dollars a
year in sales, and that doesn’t even include the second and third tier labels
they make. That’s some pretty significant economic clout, anyway you look at
it. You’re gonna have to sell a hell of a lot of pét-nat to achieve that kind
of economic tsunami!</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">I have a smattering of first growth Bordeaux in the
wine closet and a bottle or two of méthode ancestrale in the wine fridge. I’m
happy to enjoy both.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">The value of influence is in flux. Maybe it's more
about a new re-ordering of the chairs on the deck of the luxury liner. The impact
of power derived from that wealth cannot be underestimated in the marketplace.
But also, the energy of an ascending generation, willing to cast off the old
robes of the erstwhile high priests of wine, is something that doesn’t seem to
be going away, not just a flash in the pan. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_uGAyaYzjAiG-Sp9TGqp2DB7h7F90Y0HO-0MRoHbQdF0y5xoxKMpJNdyMctlDXypU2GLz1oP2DGtYsbfJxEQlOOyuYvv0n7oUt3ipL_QqUE0bP0-KKDHdv4-deUCLwtCM8sE_d0ZBOpuIS4-UGWyC37zVZtf8EYGAsuaBkaVlicyMPpKT_FIu/s3072/DSC00068.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="3072" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_uGAyaYzjAiG-Sp9TGqp2DB7h7F90Y0HO-0MRoHbQdF0y5xoxKMpJNdyMctlDXypU2GLz1oP2DGtYsbfJxEQlOOyuYvv0n7oUt3ipL_QqUE0bP0-KKDHdv4-deUCLwtCM8sE_d0ZBOpuIS4-UGWyC37zVZtf8EYGAsuaBkaVlicyMPpKT_FIu/w400-h266/DSC00068.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">Juvenescence is flexing, and the world is watching and
waiting – has tradition been tossed into the compost bin of history? Is ‘pop’
culture winning the wine war?</span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">If you’re a pét-nat producer, you might be hoping,
it’s your time. It’s your Taylor Swift moment, you might be thinking.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">While the race for progress has been dominating wine culture
and the wine trade since the end of World War II, now it seems a return to simpler
ancestral methods are de rigueur. As an old hippie, I kind of get it. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">When our son was born, we decided to have him be born
at home. Eight days later, he was circumcised, according to some older traditions.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And several months later, he was also vaccinated,
in accord with scientific findings. I do think technical advances can and do
enhance life.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBjDnVnGhIpnHcnDMgoleTf-AuDEt5AbzwH2wHVrchHnBofPRgbc1tJ6K4j4NdSngyh_Y-zCy-vVv1Nf8ffAEgNzLWyftB3n0M1WF-odcK_CVaJdxuMqD41Rcw9PsI_a9sKejKTV9seA7hwN6cVq_I6ZlrHkPvLWXIwtEFjhTCCXReZuPId_Fq/s577/zio.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="577" data-original-width="577" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBjDnVnGhIpnHcnDMgoleTf-AuDEt5AbzwH2wHVrchHnBofPRgbc1tJ6K4j4NdSngyh_Y-zCy-vVv1Nf8ffAEgNzLWyftB3n0M1WF-odcK_CVaJdxuMqD41Rcw9PsI_a9sKejKTV9seA7hwN6cVq_I6ZlrHkPvLWXIwtEFjhTCCXReZuPId_Fq/s320/zio.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><br />Likewise, for those who haven’t been afflicted with
total amnesia, regarding the last 70 or so years of headway made in winemaking,
it’s nothing short of a miracle that when one opens a wine today, it is usually
not purposefully flawed. Forty years ago, you couldn’t have said that as confidently.
We kissed a lot more frogs in 1984 than we do in 2023.</span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">That said, if one wishes to taste a wine today of the
most recherché description, it is easy to do so in most urban centers. In the
city I live in a café recently opened up in the downtown area, proudly claiming
an <i>“unwavering dedication to natural wines, the only wines they'll serve,
plus local beer and batched cocktails. Natural wines are a growing category and
indicate wines made with organically or biodynamically grown grapes, with no or
low sulfites, which are used to preserve wine but can cause headaches, stomach
aches, and other symptoms.”</i></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">Aside from what appears to be a mild case of virtue
signaling coupled with a dallop of misinformation (sulfites are not the Darth
Vadar of wine), again, I return to the quote in the beginning, not to belabor a
point, but to emphasize what I believe is at the crux of the matter in today’s
shape-shifting wine world: </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><i><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">“When, and under what emotional pressure,
does a memory shift from being a reliable account of something to a story that
we tell ourselves about what we wish had occurred?”</span></i></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">I remember trying wines early on in my career that
literally made me sick. They were flawed. At the time, I was a Birkenstock
wearing, lacto-ovo vegetarian, eating only free-range fertilized eggs, raw milk
and cheese and whole grains and organic vegetable. So, I wasn’t some grey
flannel corporate wonk looking for a “slab and a Cab” at my local “continental”
restaurant on my overinflated company expense account. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhME0s-ulTP4gpT93FO0r38vy1ndgVF7SeiqUKeDLEhVDe3gChjcW1pocgoh15mbZlrqtya1nN4X550d5Va2h1z494Z9MOrsCXQLwPnUPlR1GnUpdHMMguK-2NxQqxVygTFc0UpO2FWIcVRfF_2jXcAOIA9lnmC_7AIVhbsz10sNwARQ4s015We/s2477/DSC_5876.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2477" data-original-width="2477" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhME0s-ulTP4gpT93FO0r38vy1ndgVF7SeiqUKeDLEhVDe3gChjcW1pocgoh15mbZlrqtya1nN4X550d5Va2h1z494Z9MOrsCXQLwPnUPlR1GnUpdHMMguK-2NxQqxVygTFc0UpO2FWIcVRfF_2jXcAOIA9lnmC_7AIVhbsz10sNwARQ4s015We/s320/DSC_5876.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><br />Hence, my tolerance for deviation. I completely understand
it. But also, not wishing to recast history or even the preferred reality as it
is in the wine world. Yes, there is room for all expressions. And yes, some
will survive and some will not.</span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">I have no illusions of ever seeing Bordeaux returning to
the cool kid’s clubhouse. And, actually, I don’t think Bordeaux is going in
that direction.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">My young journalist friend confided to me, “<i>For
what it’s worth, I keep waiting for Bordeaux to be cool again. Someone out
there has to be plowing with an obscure breed of horse and making carbonic cab
franc and vin-jaune styled Semillon somewhere in Graves or something, right?”</i></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;">No doubt. From his lips to the goddess's ears.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkvcjPjJVap6NvtKlpY0-_bR5dTiaJJdwIq9uP6_xw_sm49jJKotV0jJGLRknll5-tYoYsu8-qp6-vuYmptdFWXb-od392RjtUYPIUSkNpXXqvaHLO_Bsy8HDSxakytEmJW2crsuKUkXCEqbzEzdITVbXKolYPiBCWrnSf8aC81dNXU3HgLcKu/s777/latour.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="516" data-original-width="777" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkvcjPjJVap6NvtKlpY0-_bR5dTiaJJdwIq9uP6_xw_sm49jJKotV0jJGLRknll5-tYoYsu8-qp6-vuYmptdFWXb-od392RjtUYPIUSkNpXXqvaHLO_Bsy8HDSxakytEmJW2crsuKUkXCEqbzEzdITVbXKolYPiBCWrnSf8aC81dNXU3HgLcKu/w400-h266/latour.JPG" width="400" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 16pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /> </span><p></p>
<div class="by-line"><span style="font-size: small;">© written and photographed by <a href="http://www.blogger.com/profile/16983431475848714789">Alfonso Cevola</a></span><span style="font-size: small;"> limited rights reserved <a href="http://acevola.blogspot.com/">On the Wine Trail in Italy</a></span> </div>
<div style="color: white;">
wine blog + Italian wine blog + Italy W</div>
</div>Alfonso Cevolahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16983431475848714789noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20283310.post-58301796723227449742023-10-08T10:53:00.005-05:002023-10-10T05:57:32.325-05:00What I learned about wine writing from a Black female science-fiction author<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 22pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 22pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZoa6iOmCUV0EB44H0QJhoaXM0IN62LoI2cMj7Z7u6ayO6Qu01RjlHYRBpjZZzlqBCQVMlNZyrWkUs_ZcnGy4t3ScjkHuW18WJ7SHchrb7bi5iafuoJor-gvsHhW49KW4BCO2-3N_mBNgM8Kc54YGkxv7fr1_Eqa1x8knhxLWA0nWiry1Zwy10/s999/marfa%20water%20sprinkler%20black%20and%20white.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="999" data-original-width="999" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZoa6iOmCUV0EB44H0QJhoaXM0IN62LoI2cMj7Z7u6ayO6Qu01RjlHYRBpjZZzlqBCQVMlNZyrWkUs_ZcnGy4t3ScjkHuW18WJ7SHchrb7bi5iafuoJor-gvsHhW49KW4BCO2-3N_mBNgM8Kc54YGkxv7fr1_Eqa1x8knhxLWA0nWiry1Zwy10/s320/marfa%20water%20sprinkler%20black%20and%20white.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 22pt; line-height: 107%;">W</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">hen I graduated from college I moved
back to the town where I was born, Altadena, California. Unbeknownst to me, one
of my neighbors was a budding science-fiction writer. She lived one street
above us, and she was on her way to becoming one of the greatest science-fiction
novelists of our time. </span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">I was working various jobs. In the morning I would
head up the hill to work making custom furniture. After lunch, at our home
workshop I would work on custom frames. And in the evening, I would drive to
Pasadena or Hollywood where I worked as a waiter. We were starting a family, we
were broke, the economy sucked, and I still entertained visions of becoming a great
photographer. I had a full plate in my 20’s. So did my sci-fi neighbor, as she
was also in her 20’s and no one had any idea the greatness she could achieve.
Except for her. She was on a mission. Her name was Octavia Butler. And she
changed my world.<span></span></span></p><a name='more'></a><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">When I would take my young son and our dog to Eaton
Canyon to hike and walk, I came close to her house on the way. I wonder if she
was in there typing away furiously, battling time and the demons writers must
deal with on a daily basis. I had no idea I would ever be writing as much as I
have in the last 20 years. I was a photographer, not a writer! But, it seems,
the powers that be had other ideas for me.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Octavia was a force of nature. She was fearless,
indomitable and courageous. But one would never gather that from a first
glance. One of our mutual neighbors raised chickens and I would often go over
there with the baby to pick up eggs, look at the goats and the chickens and talk
to the hippie couple who were living their life on that little plot in a
residential neighborhood. Altadena was like that. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6KVYmwn6NzXpEn8Q1wkUg1zOVrmkAUBGSH-jyZmK-AMTIwdOvSY3HNLM9pKs2HrZLmB1DocDXcUIxU2IETZfn6Ilj8R5AL2iYw5hIIsjjVPzwqMubm_DMj16HAzioqSW5HdeAZibFd63WDILIlJEZgvyZwmfUVjj-9Nq_4mjsEpix3qnmaZUX/s922/Michele%20Kadison%201.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="615" data-original-width="922" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6KVYmwn6NzXpEn8Q1wkUg1zOVrmkAUBGSH-jyZmK-AMTIwdOvSY3HNLM9pKs2HrZLmB1DocDXcUIxU2IETZfn6Ilj8R5AL2iYw5hIIsjjVPzwqMubm_DMj16HAzioqSW5HdeAZibFd63WDILIlJEZgvyZwmfUVjj-9Nq_4mjsEpix3qnmaZUX/w400-h266/Michele%20Kadison%201.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br />One of our other neighbors was an <a href="https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-2004-feb-01-me-zorthian1-story.html" target="_blank">artist</a> who lived further
up the hill. Friends with Picasso, and as libidinous. But he was a good client for
the frames, when he wasn’t grabbing my wife’s breast or ass. She took it all in
stride, as we did in those days. Today, he wouldn’t get off so easily. But he
was a serious artist. Which is to say, he also had his demons.</span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">But our sci-fi resident indirectly taught me some
lessons about writing, even if writing about wine isn’t as glorious as fiction.
Some of those lessons are:</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><b>Choice </b>– We all have choices to make. Even if it doesn’t
seem like it. If you are enslaved or incarcerated, it might appear that you are
not free to choose your fate. But you are. How you react, how you go forward,
how you choose to wield your personal power, albeit in an abbreviated or
limited manner, defines the person you are. And with writing, the subject, the
feeling one is trying to invoke, the information one is wishing to convey, they
come from the choices you make.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn2HySxJN7Amcxv3uS0zBjlxGaR5CejVjySvKKc08ZFpka0XMbQAqKR36Vd41sd5NCR-Wb8knfJ9obmKnNZ97FNIrz9jsehkfWQDPLdFBFRQnLdhCQJjXUPtnw5CaNLX2wvAAS62qGcy_Gv-qJmmGVg79Nh8wjUzv250XYL97WY0gUDws6e4Ec/s2016/Cevola_Altamont%205.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1245" data-original-width="2016" height="248" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn2HySxJN7Amcxv3uS0zBjlxGaR5CejVjySvKKc08ZFpka0XMbQAqKR36Vd41sd5NCR-Wb8knfJ9obmKnNZ97FNIrz9jsehkfWQDPLdFBFRQnLdhCQJjXUPtnw5CaNLX2wvAAS62qGcy_Gv-qJmmGVg79Nh8wjUzv250XYL97WY0gUDws6e4Ec/w400-h248/Cevola_Altamont%205.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /><b>The Big Picture</b> – Ms. Butler wrote about big things
like climate change, the rights of women, the political upheaval and the
injustices minorities face in their daily lives. And she often wove them all
together. When looking at big subjects, even in wine writing, remember to
include things other than wine. Bring in culture, weave in the politics of the
place, include injustices that prevail or maybe ones that have been overcome.
And look at the picture from a wider angle. In other words, look at the big picture,
even if all you re doing is writing about a Sangiovese wine or an Etna Bianco.</span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><b>Power</b>- so much of Octavia’s book relied on how power
was used, or misused. In society and culture, power is always present and often
prevalent. In wine, as well, power is a subject that often comes up. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Example:</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"> The other night I
opened up a 40-year-old bottle of Napa Valley Petite Sirah. Now 35 years ago,
that wine would have been a bowl-you-over powerhouse of a wine. An inky bucking
bronco of a wine. 35 years later, though, that same wine has a different level
of power. Now it is mellower, almost subtle, from a grape too seldom known for
nuance in its youth. But power, when it ages, can soften. A velvet hammer. And
it can bend in subtle ways that it might not have been able to when it was clamoring
to get out of the chute.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">The way it wielded power when it was young is
different than when it was old. That was something I didn’t understand when I
was young, because I had not experienced that much life time. Now, it’s much
more blatantly obvious, to me. But if I try to explain it to someone two or
three generations behind me, chances are I’ll get a blank stare, if they are even
listening.</span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoEQwmBlpaS5SqkR4cz_90icZn3j5zVcAQgUsQUdaS7bBv-gzvcyMi1TM4wUS8ccQU5GqHOxViY943ibjdaciTpHik4uao23XDQElnZOM50VXtVZyW9QhauVFkvPqwXnhuX7fztbql0_B4tiATrXUYrboEziUb7OIX_6cqdl2Eadaem61fK62W/s4626/On%20Leaving008.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3055" data-original-width="4626" height="264" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoEQwmBlpaS5SqkR4cz_90icZn3j5zVcAQgUsQUdaS7bBv-gzvcyMi1TM4wUS8ccQU5GqHOxViY943ibjdaciTpHik4uao23XDQElnZOM50VXtVZyW9QhauVFkvPqwXnhuX7fztbql0_B4tiATrXUYrboEziUb7OIX_6cqdl2Eadaem61fK62W/w400-h264/On%20Leaving008.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Octavia Butler, over time, taught me to listen to the
messengers, about power and choice and the big picture. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Some people pooh-pooh science fiction. The New York Times has a Sunday feature called “By the Book,” interviewing authors as to their reading preferences. Many reject science fiction saying “Oh no, I don’t read that stuff. It’s not my cup of tea.”
I get it. But for those of us for whom sci-fi is the bee’s knees, it’s another world.
Or a world within a world. Or a multiplex of innumerable universes.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Thankfully, Octavia Butler’s worlds and universes are
very approachable and tangible. And the lessons learned from reading her books
and knowing she was just a stone’s throw up the street gives me great solace
and comfort. Another traveler in time and space who got it, and who shared it, suffering
through time and space like we all do. And giving back. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Giving back- something the wine world needs so very
much more of these days – the whole world in fact.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"></p><p><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Thank you, Octavia! </span> <br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcrs5fyXn6ygmSBfPdsDvMwP0Duh5j5JQuBGMsTcTgyyE6RstutBdGH_sSZaL5HJzu-mfeJqHekSEIrSm5n07OPsLg1wekSaR257Qky_qUxxm_H4yHGtmqx58wLZq_6koQHjKhAJ66whn9N6BSwsQCSXyU1qulozfc5337U_u9SP2F5gmrZ3zl/s996/Mrs%20Jackson%20Altadena%20CA%201975-%20final.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="660" data-original-width="996" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcrs5fyXn6ygmSBfPdsDvMwP0Duh5j5JQuBGMsTcTgyyE6RstutBdGH_sSZaL5HJzu-mfeJqHekSEIrSm5n07OPsLg1wekSaR257Qky_qUxxm_H4yHGtmqx58wLZq_6koQHjKhAJ66whn9N6BSwsQCSXyU1qulozfc5337U_u9SP2F5gmrZ3zl/w400-h265/Mrs%20Jackson%20Altadena%20CA%201975-%20final.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><br /><br /><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span><div class="by-line"><span style="font-size: small;"> </span></div><div class="by-line"><span style="font-size: small;">© written and photographed by <a href="http://www.blogger.com/profile/16983431475848714789">Alfonso Cevola</a></span><span style="font-size: small;"> limited rights reserved <a href="http://acevola.blogspot.com/">On the Wine Trail in Italy</a></span> </div>
<div style="color: white;">
wine blog + Italian wine blog + Italy W</div>
Alfonso Cevolahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16983431475848714789noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20283310.post-35175183600936477252023-10-01T17:02:00.003-05:002023-10-01T17:03:37.386-05:00A Remembrance ~ Anisetta in Palermo <i>revised from the <a href="https://acevola.blogspot.com/2012/05/anisetta-in-palermo.html" target="_blank">archives</a>... </i><br />
<i> </i> <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jl-04Rgx6GQ/T8NL0qdvojI/AAAAAAAAQv0/225xhkiDeKw/s1600/family+in+Palermo+in+front+of+food.1.jpg" style="font-family: times; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="316" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jl-04Rgx6GQ/T8NL0qdvojI/AAAAAAAAQv0/225xhkiDeKw/s320/family+in+Palermo+in+front+of+food.1.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: x-large;">I</span><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: times;"> </span></span><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: times;">remember that sinuous ceramic floor, on top of the building on Via Roma. Of all things, why that floor? Perhaps the floor was the safe, the repository for all the memories stored up on the roof overlooking Palermo. All the long dinners, late lunches, cups of coffee in the early morning looking out over the water, watching the ships pull into the harbor. Looking at Monte Pellegrino in the afternoon, in the aperitivo moment. For whatever reason, that odd squiggly tile floor pulls me into the shots. Most of these people are family in some way, most of them are now gone. But here it is, Memorial Day, and one of their kin is remembering them, channeling them, looking back into the past peering into the magic mirror of images my grandfather brought back. <br /></span></span>
<a name='more'></a><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: times;"></span></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></span>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uTAQgn5fbfU/T8NM35RAGCI/AAAAAAAAQv8/dZEGs9SYSKc/s1600/eating+pasta+in+Palermo+.1.jpg" style="font-family: times; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="291" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uTAQgn5fbfU/T8NM35RAGCI/AAAAAAAAQv8/dZEGs9SYSKc/s400/eating+pasta+in+Palermo+.1.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: times;">My grandfather was an avid photographer and took his little Brownie camera or whatever other Kodak he had at the time and always took pictures. Now I have some of the negatives, mainly from my dad, who was also an amateur shooter and filmmaker. And what did people do in those days but capture the moment? And there were many more moments with family in those days.<br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br />
The picture of the family on the roof, with an array of food and wines. Those wines, look at them, what were they? It looks like about five bottles, with fancy labels. No vino sfuso. If they were even all wine? Most likely there was an apertivo or digestivo on the table. Probably Cynar. That’s where I first was enrolled into the wonders of digestive. <br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></span>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Cm1H6wB0lmM/T8NOU1XHqhI/AAAAAAAAQwE/-LdsKcknbTE/s1600/Palermo+on+top+of+via+roma+with+family+toasting.jpg" style="font-family: times; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Cm1H6wB0lmM/T8NOU1XHqhI/AAAAAAAAQwE/-LdsKcknbTE/s320/Palermo+on+top+of+via+roma+with+family+toasting.jpg" width="319" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: times;">Some sparkling wine, maybe sweet. Maybe an exotic wine from the mainland? An Asti? Probably. Or maybe French Champagne. Not too much of a stretch considering the trade the Palermitani had with the French. <br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br />
An odd shaped bottle in the front, looking like a Marsala. I would hope so. The array of food looks sweet, like desserts. It looks like there might be a bottle of Sambuca on the table. My Sicilian relatives taught me to appreciate anise. On a hot summer day, a potion of mineral water and anisetta would cool off the fiercest heat bearing down on the Conca d’Oro from nearby Africa. <br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></span>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-crFfQbZtZUg/T8NJl27xcsI/AAAAAAAAQvk/h-cffquh2Fs/s1600/anna+ferrara+and+her+family+high+res+copy+bw.jpg" style="font-family: times; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="217" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-crFfQbZtZUg/T8NJl27xcsI/AAAAAAAAQvk/h-cffquh2Fs/s400/anna+ferrara+and+her+family+high+res+copy+bw.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: times;">Later on in America our relatives in California would take to the countryside and have huge picnics in nature. Fried chicken was big, and all manner of salads. My grandmother’s capunata would be there, along with any number of dishes from the bounty of California. Wines too, red and hearty. And beer too, for the refreshment factor. Also because it went so well with fried chicken. <br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: times;"></span></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></span>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sOcJqaHfxok/T8NKVyJtXhI/AAAAAAAAQvs/KI2fL95YjrQ/s1600/cevola+and+messina+family+dining+.1.jpg" style="font-family: times; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="230" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sOcJqaHfxok/T8NKVyJtXhI/AAAAAAAAQvs/KI2fL95YjrQ/s400/cevola+and+messina+family+dining+.1.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: times;">No, it’s all been disseminated. The Italian Diaspora spread us all out real thin. No large tables on the roof of Via Roma in Palermo anymore. No picnics in San Fernando Valley. Just a quiet meal here and there. Probably better, smaller carbon footprint. <br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br />
I do miss the music, though, and the stories and all the eccentric personalities assembled when a large family gets together. But the remembrances are sweet, like the anisetta and desserts we once shared many many years ago on the roof in Palermo, upon that squiggly ceramic floor, overlooking the rest of the world and the end of time. </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--JP9-OJNkMw/T8NJQ62GUaI/AAAAAAAAQvc/ApCVKJAyPtQ/s1600/family+in+sicily+1.1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--JP9-OJNkMw/T8NJQ62GUaI/AAAAAAAAQvc/ApCVKJAyPtQ/s320/family+in+sicily+1.1.jpg" width="319" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: small;"> </span><div class="by-line">
<span style="font-size: small;">© written and photographed by <a href="http://www.blogger.com/profile/16983431475848714789">Alfonso Cevola</a></span><span style="font-size: small;"> limited rights reserved <a href="http://acevola.blogspot.com/">On the Wine Trail in Italy</a></span> </div>
<div style="color: white;">
wine blog + Italian wine blog + Italy W</div>
Alfonso Cevolahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16983431475848714789noreply@blogger.com