Monday, May 28, 2012

Anisetta in Palermo

and other remembrances on this day... 
 
I remember that sinuous ceramic floor, on top of the building on Via Roma. Of all things, why that floor? Perhaps the floor was the safe, the repository for all the memories stored up on the roof overlooking Palermo. All the long dinners, late lunches, cups of coffee in the early morning looking out over the water, watching the ships pull into the harbor. Looking at Monte Pellegrino in the afternoon, in the aperitivo moment. For whatever reason, that odd squiggly tile floor pulls me into the shots. Most of these people are family in some way, most of them are now gone. But here it is, Memorial Day, and one of their kin is remembering them, channeling them, looking back into the past peering into the magic mirror of images my grandfather brought back.

My grandfather was an avid photographer and took his little Brownie camera or whatever other Kodak he had at the time and always took pictures. Now I have some of the negatives, mainly from my dad, who was also an amateur shooter and filmmaker. And what did people do in those days but capture the moment? And there were many more moments with family in those days.

The picture of the family on the roof, with an array of food and wines. Those wines, look at them, what were they? It looks like about five bottles, with fancy labels. No vino sfuso. If they were even all wine? Most likely there was an apertivo or digestivo on the table. Probably Cynar. That’s where I first was enrolled into the wonders of digestive.

Some sparkling wine, maybe sweet. Maybe an exotic wine from the mainland? An Asti? Probably. Or maybe French Champagne. Not too much of a stretch considering the trade the Palermitani had with the French.

An odd shaped bottle in the front, looking like a Marsala. I would hope so. The array of food looks sweet, like desserts. It looks like there might be a bottle of Sambuca on the table. My Sicilian relatives taught me to appreciate anise. On a hot summer day, a potion of mineral water and anisetta would cool off the fiercest heat bearing down on the Conca d’Oro from nearby Africa.

Later on in America our relatives in California would take to the countryside and have huge picnics in nature. Fried chicken was big, and all manner of salads. My grandmother’s capunata would be there, along with any number of dishes from the bounty of California. Wines too, red and hearty. And beer too, for the refreshment factor. Also because it went so well with fried chicken.

They loved getting together. One of the family members in one of the photos, from the Messina family, he is approaching 96. Called me up yesterday. I need to go see him today, see how he is doing. He misses this stuff even more than me.

My mom is celebrating her 98th birthday with her middle daughter who is also having a birthday this week. They will drink wine, my brother-in-law loves wine. Maybe a Pinot Noir from up north. Maybe an Italian red. He came from Greece. I think he doesn’t drink Greek wine as much as he used to.

No, it’s all been disseminated. The Italian Diaspora spread us all out real thin. No large tables on the roof of Via Roma in Palermo anymore. No picnics in San Fernando Valley. Just a quiet meal here and there. Probably better, smaller carbon footprint.

I do miss the music, though, and the stories and all the eccentric personalities assembled when a large family gets together. But the remembrances are sweet, like the anisetta and desserts we once shared many many years ago on the roof in Palermo, upon that squiggly ceramic floor, overlooking the rest of the world and the end of time.

written by Alfonso Cevola limited rights reserved On the Wine Trail in Italy


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Friday, May 25, 2012

Seersucker memories, Vonnegut “so it goes” tattoos and Ripasso with Dr. Zaius

"All this happened, more or less." 

Why are people attracted to certain things? I’ll never know. One of my most humiliating memories is when I was 18 and my girlfriend at the time jettisoned me for an older man. I used to work for him, and he was the epitome of ugly, like a wrinkled Woody Allen bereft of charm. But something about him was attractive to her. For a month or so it devastated me and my perception of the world. For a little longer I thought I was somehow unworthy. It wasn’t until years later that I realized it wasn’t really me. But perceptions of myself were colored in ways that I am sure shaped future decisions and paved the way for any number of successes and failures.

Sunday, May 20, 2012

As you age does your taste in wine change?

That was the question I posed on a Facebook page two months ago. I have been thinking about it for some time now, and doing active research.

In my life, I have to say, my tastes have ranged all across the board, like waves of appreciation. For a while I would taste all the Bordeaux reds I could get my hands on. And I developed a taste for them. But my diet, which ranges from low to no red meat, really doesn’t complement them. I also was into Rhone reds as well, and again, aside from the occasional spicy chicken on the grill or holiday repast, I found them hard to take on a regular basis. Not that I didn’t like them, it was more that I just didn’t have a lifestyle where these wines fit on a regular basis.

Thursday, May 17, 2012

Facticity in Flux

Sunday, May 13, 2012

A History of Italian Wine in America from 1977-2012

Thursday, May 10, 2012

Wetness Protection Program

Sunday, May 06, 2012

Aglianico Unearthed

Interpreted from recently unearthed sealed documents of possible Jesuit origin found in the Biblioteca Nazionale in Naples.

In the year 1215, while folks over in England were setting up a pilot for future governments, travelers from another planet arrived on Earth. They came not in flying machines but teleported their molecular makeup though time and space and settled in Basilicata. Basilicata was chosen because these beings studied the planet, their new home, and decided it would be out of the way but close to some civilization. The weather was usually good, but sometimes cold. They didn’t object to that. This was to be a seamless transition, for their planet, known as CO, was placing their population all over the galaxies as a supernova would soon destroy their sun.

Thursday, May 03, 2012

What’s the ROI on Rosé?

I’m feeling pretty good about it being May and already we are seeing the new crop of rosé wines rolling into the market. But with that joy there is always a little trepidation. You see, rosé is kind of like an in-law. You love to see them when they first arrive, but after awhile you are trying to figure out ways to skooch them out the door.

Sunday, April 29, 2012

An Eternity of Mondays


Your job isn’t who you are,” the little monkey voice inside the head kept chattering. Yeah, yeah, heard it all so many times before in a been-there-done-that kind of way. Wave after wave of images roll onto the shores of my short term recall, trying to evoke a response or any sign of life. Only to return back to the abyss of the deep sea of memory. It’s going to be a long night, but when it’s all said and done it’ll be another Monday.

Thursday, April 26, 2012

Want an Award Winning Wine list and don’t want to pay $250 to the Wine Spectator? Lean in…

The past week has been busy as hell. I have found myself in countless restaurants in South Texas, West Texas and North Texas. That would be like saying you were in Champagne, Languedoc and Bordeaux. Or Piemonte, Tuscany and Sicily. And in fact, we have been tasting wine from those regions of Italy. And then some.

I was talking to a restaurateur today and he was grilling me about pasta. He really seemed to value my thoughts about the subject. I was humbled but honored. Likewise, I hope some of the wine directors I have run across this week are as curious about the wine regions I am so fond of. I have had tutoring this week from two of the best in the business, Bobby Stuckey and Damon Ornowski, both master sommeliers and both living in Colorado. They also travel extensively. They shed some light on the endless process of refinement.

Tuesday, April 24, 2012

Going the Whole Hog

Sometimes life is a cornucopia of events. And sometimes it’s a dry well in the desert. And this week, while it is tending more towards the first, we are going the whole hog.

Master sommelier Bobby Stuckey and chef Lachlan Mackinnon-Patterson have been sauntering across Texas with their Frasca/Scarpetta road show. Dallas on Tuesday, Austin on Wednesday, Houston on Thursday, that kind of deal. And while tomorrow will find me on a totally ‘nother wine trail, today we lingered in Italy; Friuli to be exact. And man, was it good.

Sunday, April 22, 2012

From Tuscan to Texan in less than a week

I wasn’t sure how long it would take for Jacopo Bacci to fall into Texas, but as expected it took less than a week. Sure the weather has been great, and places like Dallas, San Antonio, Houston and Buffalo Gap were struttin’ their finest stuff in front of the young man. And so it goes, Jacopo has been snake-bitten by life out West; and that’s a very good thing for Tuscany and for Texas.


Saturday, April 21, 2012

Buffalo Gap Wine & Food Summit 2012 - First Slideshow

Busy time out here in West Texas - just a few photos - more to come... Keep smiling - keep drinking wine - keep dancing - keep hoping.



Ipad or Iphone viewers can view the photos here: http://goo.gl/Yqhho

Thursday, April 19, 2012

Tuscany Slow Dances with West Texas at the Buffalo Gap Wine & Food Summit

After Vinitaly and after Bordeaux en Primeur, then it is time for Texas. One of the events I so look forward to is the Buffalo Gap Wine & Food Summit out in West Texas. Held for the past seven years at Perini Ranch, this year the theme is Italy and the wines and grapes of Tuscany. So we have rustled up some of our favorite Tuscan producers and we are gonna be scurrying out past Abilene deep into John Wayne country

The weather has been predicted for a beautiful spring weekend, which means days in the mid 70’s and nights in the near to low 40’s. Lots of sunshine and dust, the red clay dust of West Texas, which gets all up in your eyes and skin and everything and it is a wonderful thing. Chefs from all over Texas along with winemakers from Texas and a few friends from California who have Texas roots will meet up with the Tuscan contingency. It’s gonna be a ball. Like it always is.

Sunday, April 15, 2012

The Folly of Immortality

The personal Palio this week was unusually punishing, as if to remind us that one doesn’t just get older. There are forces out there that even though they seem to be random, aim to hurt and to mangle. Those in my world have been shaken, but not taken out. Not this time. But then, it’s only a matter of time.

I was talking to a young winemaker in Italy last month when the conversation headed philosophical. “We Italians are trying to do something with our wines that nobody else has tried. We are reimagining our history; recasting our future.” He was so young, and so serious. And so ardent. I didn’t have the heart to tell him that when he went to bed that night and woke up the next morning it would be 30 years later. He wouldn’t have understood, or even cared. The purpose of being young is to be in a constant state of youth. After all, what does a young person have their whole life except their youth? Let them enjoy it; time will chip away at it sooner than they think.

Back in Siena, as I walked around the Piazza del Campo and made the circuit a time or two, clicking off the minutes before I had to meet some friends, I thought of the blood, sweat and tears that infused this place in July and August . Some folly, but what a great drama nonetheless. Due palio così.