So when we met again for the second year in New York for Vino2011 I knew we were going to have dinner together. Anyone who read the entry from last year, My Dinner with Carmen, might already know a little about the guy. But this year, we aimed to blow it out. And blow 2010 away. And we did.
First, the other players:
Guy Stout- Master Sommelier and long time friend and colleague. Legendary in Texas and sommelier circles. He also blogs, called The Stout Report on the Blend.
Kristina Kelley- Carmen’s colleague and partner in crime. She is also a Communications director for EJ Gallo.
Ben Weinberg- Columnist, Rocky Mountain News with lots if positive and high energy.
Doug Cook- Search technologist, entrepreneur, and wine geek.The wizard behind Able Grape and Twitter Search.
Tony May – The Wizard of SD26. One of the seminal figures for Italian food in America.
|Carmen, in the back, on the phone, as usual.|
The next night was a breeze in the rock star “stretch” limo. Good times.
|Tony May, aptly suggesting apps|
And then there was Carmen.
|Love 'em? Hate 'em? Ipad, meet the wine list of the 21st century|
There we was- attacking the Ipad wine list with a vengeance. Tap – Franciacorta. Tap – Soave. Tap – Cesanese. Tap – Timorasso. We were hitting the Ipad like it was a slot machine. But this time everyone won.
|Culatello di Zibello with burrata: “Does ham & cheese get any better?”|
|Beef tartare with black truffles|
|Menaica anchovy filets-Crostini covered Lardo-.Zeppola di Baccala|
Tony disappears and food started showing up. Wonderful food. Culatello di Zibello with burrata, shades of my recent trip to Emilia. “Does ham and cheese get any better?” my friend Chris Zimmerman wrote. If it does, I don’t want to know. Plates of Menaica anchovy filets with crostini covered with Lardo. Sopressata. Sicilian Caponata. Zeppola di Baccala. Beef tartare with (real) black truffles. Oy! Such happiness tonight (such pain tomorrow?).
|The famous “uovo”|
|Linguine di Gragnano al fumo with clams|
Then pasta rolls across the table like a North Texas tornado in April. The famous “uovo” soft egg yolk raviolo with (real) truffled butter. Linguine di Gragnano al fumo with clams, charred grape tomatoes and parsley. Sea urchin raviolini with peperoncino. I am officially going into a food coma. So very happy.
|Bistecca Fiorentina for two, or one very hungry Texan|
Ben is giddy. Great wine, great food, great place and not only one, but two, three, more storytellers. He’s having a journalgasm in his seat. And we all applaud him with our furtive eye gestures of recognition that this is one Big Night.
And in the catbird seat is the master blaster, the man of many tales, the liquid historian. Carmen regales us with one story after another from his early days as a young man setting up umbrellas on the Jersey Shore in summer (“Al Martino always gave me a fifty cent tip”), to stories of working the mean streets with Ernie Gallo. And say what you will, those of you who think the sun rises and sets on a world with only small, artisanal, garagiste wines – we all live in a world better suited to all kinds of wine expression because Ernie Gallo hit the streets hard while his brother Julio rode horseback on his early vineyards working to improve technology so that more people in America would have access to simple, sound, affordable wines. I grew up in one of the Italian-American families in California. I didn’t grow up drinking German Riesling. Or Lambrusco. Or Moscato. I grew up drinking Hearty red wine. And millions like me did. So a huge shout out and grazie to the Piedmontese brothers who had a vision for America. They changed - hell - they invented the wine game in America. And yes, there is room in this great country for everyone’s wine. From Chardonnay to Timorasso. From Merlot to Cesanese. From Cold Duck to Franciacorta. Think: gateway…
|Bea San Valentino|
|Timorasso - rare everywhere except in NYC|
At the end of the meal, when coffee and amari were passed around, I was beaming. I have dear friends, old and new, and we all were elated to sit at the table of the master storyteller. Man, I love that guy. And not because he bought me dinner, but because he sees wine through the eyes of someone to whom everything is new.
The great 20th century sculptor Constantin Brancusi nailed it: “When we are no longer children we are already dead”.
Let me tell you, Carmen Castorina is very much alive. Just the way we like him. Just the way we’re gonna keep him, for a long, long time.
Thanks Carmen, and Tony May, for a great Big Night!