Marziano Abbona Sulfite-Free Langhe Rosso - "No Amphora, No Nomblot, Just the Moon"

Marziano puts an un-sufured cork in it

A wine I wasn’t expecting to try, as I started my lap around the Langhe, was the ZEROSOLFITI Langhe Rosso of Marziano Abbona. After a stellar lineup of Arneis, Viognier (don’t cringe - there’s a story - for later), a Dogliani DOCG Cru, a Barbera from Alba and a host of uber-delicious Nebbiolo wines from Barolo and Barbaresco, Marziano’s daughter pulled out this red wine. “We only make a little of it, to see how far we can try to take the wine without sulfur.” She explained the rites: painstakingly and excruciatingly rigorous denial of sulfuring in the vineyards, in crushing and wine-making, in the aging and in the bottling, including in the barrels and the bottles and even going so far as to wash the vines off after copper preparations. Wow, I’m tired writing this, let alone all the work that went into it.

Kinetic Graffiti and Sunburnt Sicilian Orange Wine in Milan

Near the Porta Genova

How does one explain “orange” wine to friends outside the natural wine cabal? Last night, I had a free night in Milan and met up with a fellow I had been wanting to meet ever since I read about him in the New York Times. Carlo Bevilacqua is a photographer who is of the great tradition of shooters from Italy who witness the world that most of us walk right through. But the world through his lens is a richer place and one he is willing to share with all 100% of us.

One of my favorite indulgences is to wander a place alone with a camera. I slip into my invisible clothes and take to the streets without map, GPS or a destination. I’ve done it in Rome, Venice, Palermo, Naples, Torino, Florence, and not just Italy or the cities. The cities are fecund with the amalgam of the human condition. Milan is a working laboratory for all those little heartbeats that fill the canvas. I’m not sure if the graffiti that infects the city acts as a de-sensitizing buffer or as a Rosetta stone to its greater understanding. As an outsider I find it immensely interesting, a palimpsest of visual imagery that makes me dizzy drunk. And that’s before I’ve even had a sip of wine.

The Difference between a Secret and a Lie

The big lie has been for years that Italians ship different wines to America and save the best wines for themselves.

The big secret is that the vino sfuso (house wine) you find in many trattorie in Italy are better than most wines you can find in a supermarket in America. And you cannot find these Italian wines in America because they are not marketable. They rely on freshness and are wines for the moment. They are very simple wines, often very good (like the vino bianco I had in a Milanese trattoria today).

In response to the age-old question I hear so many times, “Why do Italian wines taste different in Italy than they do in America?” More as a response than an answer: these wines do not represent the best of Italy, but whenever I go into a humble café or restaurant in Italy I often go straight for the vino della casa. I am seldom disappointed. I would not import nor would I ever cellar these wines.  

But with a plate of fritto misto, there isn't anything better.

written by Alfonso Cevola limited rights reserved On the Wine Trail in Italy

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Harvest Trail 2012 - First Stop - Piemonte

Looking forward to posting from the wine trail in Italy the next week or so. First destination – Piemonte. Not quite a death march, but a full itinerary. Excited to talk first-hand to vintners and friends, colleagues and partners, about the vintage, the wines and anything else that pops up.

Will post as I can. Hold down the fort, y’all.

written by Alfonso Cevola limited rights reserved On the Wine Trail in Italy

 

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Hoja Santa Harvest in Dallas - One Down- Three To Go

Before & After shots

Harvest season is upon us and today was the first day of the rest of a week of harvest events. Today was the Hoja Santa harvest on my little urban plot, which is destined to cover fresh goat cheese from the cheese makers at the Mozzarella Company in Deep Ellum. While Paula Lambert is in Umbria (we won’t meet up this time, unfortunately) I am heading to another group of harvests, namely, grapes, truffles and olives. More from the wine trail in Italy. But today was a good day, with three large boxes of Hoja Santa leaves gathered right before the rain.

Do you want to be a Master Sommelier? Fast-Track it in Italy for as little as €1044

Alma Wine Academy, which is part of the Alma Scuola Internazionale di Cucina Italiana, whose tagline on their web site is, “the world’s leading international educational and training centre for Italian Cuisine,” claims you too can be a master sommelier.

As unbelievable as it sounds, this school, in collaboration with the Associazione Italiana Sommelier (AIS), is offering a Master Sommelier Alma-AIS diploma. I was alerted to this by a blog post that Josko Gravner forwarded to me via Facebook, entitled, My Master Sommelier Thesis: "Josko Gravner's Ribolla gialla and the orange wines in the U.S. market." 

Columbus Day in America and Corruption in Calabria - 100 years later

I’m not sure why my grandfather from Calabria initially left the region without his wife and son for America over 100 years ago. I know where he came from, Reggio Calabria, there had been a massive earthquake. But where he lived with his wife in Bucita, it was away from the city, the corruption and the terremoto. Maybe he was looking for new opportunities, following in the path of Columbus. Maybe he just wanted to get away from it all. I know the feeling.

100 years later, folks in Calabria are facing continuing corruption and a retreat from the promise of affluence that Italy, north of Rome, has had greater access to. An article in the New York Times reports the latest trials and tribulations from a part of Italy I love and am tied to, and which causes me no little anguish. Friends of mine who live in Calabria face these issues daily. One friend told me,"We have to mark our steps very carefully when we walk out of our home. Calabria is more like Syria than Siena.”

What the world needs now is better tasting wine

“The natural wine movement is for culturally affluent Americans with too much time and money on their hands,” remarked an overheard Italian who is more concerned with larger, pressing issues. Hard as it may seem for proponents of the instinctive wine cabal in America, right now Italy is struggling with a crisis of economics and a larger, existential confrontation of identity and direction.

“Everywhere you go, people talk of the ‘crisi’ in our everyday lives. The cost of energy, of food, of transportation, of looming taxations and many Italians fear the shadow the European community ministers have cast over our country will spread even further.”

No more talks with Catholic wine rebels: Vatican official

PARIS (Reuters)- The Vatican plans no more talks with rebel Catholic wine traditionalists who insist the Church must revoke modernizing reforms launched five decades ago, Pope Benedict's main wine doctrinal official has told a German interviewer.

Archbishop Gerhard Mueller, who took up his post as head of the powerful Congregation for the Doctrine of Wine Faith (CDWF) in July, said in an interview to be broadcast on Saturday that the Church could not negotiate away the fundamentals of its winemaking faith.

His comments to North German Radio (NDR) were the first from the Vatican on deadlocked talks meant to reintegrate the Society of Saint Amphora X (SSAX) into the Church after a 21-year schism over its implacable opposition to 1960s reforms.

In recent weeks, SSAX leaders have indicated a two-year series of talks with the Vatican had hit an impasse because Rome's insistence that they accept modern winemaking reforms of the 1962-1965 Second Vatican Council was a deal breaker for them.

"We cannot give away the Catholic wine faith in negotiations," Mueller said according to a pre-broadcast report by NDR.

"There will be no compromises here," he said. "The rebels think they have us over a barrel, but I think there now will be no new discussions."

A full-bodied approach to natural wine-making

Open topped fermenters lined by animal pelts, amphorae, concrete eggs – what else? If some folks have it their way, they next wave of grass roots wine-making will be done in recycled Etruscan sarcophagi.

It’s not that far fetched. Etruscan stone coffins litter the Tuscan countryside, making it difficult to develop the land when they are discovered. Being wine country, Tuscany has a ripe opportunity to cash in on eno-tourism. Winemaking, from the cradle to the grave.

One observer was noted as saying, “This is win-win for all. We can’t move the things. And many of them are resting in underground caves. It would be the perfect place to make small-batch artisanal wine the likes of which the Georgians, the Friulans and the French terroirists can only dream of making.”

No two tastes for wine (or women) are alike

These gents are about as far away from each other as anyone can be. One is an American country singer and songwriter and the other was an Italian filmmaker and poet. Some folks like one and not the other. Some folks like them both. Some hate ‘em equally. So what?

The “so what” is, there are tastes in art and food and film and song and woman and wine and everyone’s tastes aren’t the same as everyone else’s. And if you read about something and then try it and don’t like it, don’t worry about it. Move on.

Didn’t like the recommendation? Keep moving. Try another one.

I’ve been trying scads of wines from Abruzzo this year and thought there was one benchmark wine I would always put at the top. Know what? I tried a few others and like them as well or better.

There were also one or two I didn’t like. Couldn't enjoy 'em. Wouldn't sleep with them if they were the last women on earth.

We can have different tastes in wine (and women) from our friends and colleagues, even from the experts.

Hey, I still like Merle and Pasolini though…

written by Alfonso Cevola limited rights reserved On the Wine Trail in Italy

 

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An awakening in the desert

There was this moment, many years ago, when a young woman awakened me to the outside world. We must have been on the cusp of the teen age, for I remember the year. My mom or my teacher had convinced me to sign up for a Cotillion night; learn how to dance the fox trot, the samba, the cha-cha, the waltz and so on. I remember dressing up: shined shoes, pressed shirt, tie. It was spring in the desert; I remember the sage and the wildflowers that perfumed this particular area where I lived in Palm Springs.

The Cotillion was in the Las Palmas neighborhood, down the street from the synagogue many of my Jewish pals went to. Across the street from one of the Catholic churches we would go to when our local parish priest got to talking too much about money, which was often. Eventually that priest ran away with a young woman.

American "Amarone" - a bitter drink indeed

I understand everyone needs to make a living. And in America, where free speech is sacrosanct, her citizens have the right to say almost anything. This wine label, however, is misleading, and according to Italian law has been made approximately 6000 miles outside the legal area of production. Let’s take a look at the information from the web site of the winery situated in Texas that has produced this beverage, which they call an American "Amarone":

Garibaldi's Last Stand : East vs. West

It may come as a surprise to my friends in Italy that there is another divide besides the North vs. South one they are familiar with. Here in America the contrast is between those who came and settled on the East Coast vs. the West Coast. And while it isn’t as contentious as the Polentoni vs. Terroni battle that to this day is waging in contemporary Italy, there are marked differences.

Being a child of the West Coast who lived on the East coast and is now curbed in the middle (depending on the election cycle, it is either referred to as the "Heartland of America", or in the down cycle it's simply "Flyover country"). But for a moment let’s leave great unwashed midsection of America to it’s own devices.

What really strikes me are the differences between Italian-Americans who were brought up on the two coasts. Perhaps there is a graph somewhere indicating the trends of who left where in Italy to come to another where in America. Did more Calabrese settle in New York? More Lucchese in Northern California? I am sure there are patterns of emigration that set the scene respectively for the contrasts.

For my part, observing, living and working with Italian-Americans on both coasts, I am going to make some glaring observations.

Uber Ripasso - The Next Big Thing?

Angiolino Maule's Ladder

Ripasso wines get a lot of traction in these parts - one of my blog posts that won’t rest, You say Ripasso and I say Ripassa, now seems so long ago (in the enoblogosphere 6 years is an eternity). When I came across this post, Using Dehydrated Grape Marc Waste to Improve Wine Quality: A More “Natural” Approach? From the up-and-coming- wine blog, The Academic Wino, I was fascinated. Could this be a new way of looking at Ripasso? Read the whole post HERE.

Yeah, say what you will, maybe a post like that seems like watching pain pail off a wall in the Veneto. But for my money, this could be the start of a whole way of thinking about Ripasso in its next incarnation. To quote Spock, "Fascinating."

I wonder what Bepi Quintarelii would think about this? Wherever his energy has been sprinkled into the universe, maybe, just maybe, he is still quietly at work on the next big thing.

Buon anima, Bepi!

written by Alfonso Cevola limited rights reserved On the Wine Trail in Italy
 

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