What Makes Italian Wine "Important?"

As I tear up the Italian wine trails, both the autostrada and the back roads only found by GPS, eventually when I land in a winery tasting room or around a table with food, the conversation is led by Italians wanting to talk about important wines. I am hearing that a lot lately. But what really are they talking about?

In reality the Italians have been talking about this for some time. In the past they used the word “particolare.” Somewhere after Y2K the phrase became “important.” But this important word, what is it to some people and something else to others?

I think what many are talking about is a wine that can be seen to compete on an international stage. Accepted as one of the wines that run the world catwalk and can stroll with the best of them. High cheekbones, good body (more fat than thin), a deep smoky mode and fast racy flavors. And of course, NFB (new French barriques).

I like the smell of barrels. But growing up in a Bourbon and Scotch culture, I think we in America are moving away from that profile fairly rapidly. And to the well trained European palate, what is this mania? Is it the exotic, the out of the ordinary? I am amazed at a culture that has come up with so many nuances in their flavor spectrum that they would just roll over and die to the aromas of wet paper and smoke layered with a sweet saucy note and finished up tied nicely with a bow of fruit and glycerin and more oak and sugar and alcohol. I’m sorry, but I think America is going away from that. And Italy, at least the winemakers and tastemakers, seem to think for the last generation that this is a curiosity but one that they must address, or rather, embrace, And it has me absolutely mystified.

I keep coming back to the aspect of the Italian mind that sees the high and mighty as a goal. The wealthiest Count, the most landed Duke, the (commercially) successful artist, the outrageous haute couture sun dress that bares even more flesh, perfume and tarted up characteristics

I’m going to leave it at this for now, because it is late and I really want to start a discourse in my virtual world. I surely am not having much luck with this conversation in the real world. At least, not that I can tell.

written by Alfonso Cevola limited rights reserved On the Wine Trail in Italy

An Antonioni Set in a Noir Ortona

Excuse me while I go a little deep into the Italian heart of darkness with this one. I’m sure most of you all are tired of the panoply of apparel, Pecorino and pasta porn these past few days.

The further south I go, the deeper a sense of crisis has been surfacing. Last night, during a stopover in Ortona, I started noticing some tribal rumblings. Youth hanging out on the streets, nothing to do but have foreplay and fiddle with drugs. I saw it in Genova 20 years ago and in Sicily 40 years ago. This is like being stuck in an Antonioni movie written by Pasolini.

Even a business encounter seemed edgy and clipped. I am not new to this area. But once again, I am the outsider. Now, what is going on in Italy?

Maybe it’s the earthquake. Maybe it’s the volcano. Maybe it’s Greece. Maybe it’s Berlusconi. But something is stirring. The Lega Nord signs in Ortona seem ominously similar to the movement that spawned a Mussolini. Except this time the object isn’t to unite but to divide. And after that for whom to conquer?

It felt like someone was waiting for the hammer to fall or the bomb to drop. And the youth, i vitelloni, in the countryside, hanging out amidst the wild thrushes as we zipped past them on dark little provincial roads. I swear I stepped back into the 1970’s. Something strange has gripped this area.

In a restaurant by the sea, nearly empty. It was a Monday, ok, alright. But the young server, her method so deliberate, such a high level of care for the food and the wine. She was veiled behind a wall of shyness, or was there a sprinkle of fear in there as well.

Walking on a beach in the darkness waiting for the sun, the sea, the summer breeze. But in this moment it was the scene of a potential transgression. Odd, how there seemed to be this vein of apprehension.

“When America was America, anything, everything was possible.” A European and an American sitting at a table talking about the world that is supplanting their dominance with the rising sun from The East. We are being reduced to serving Asia and simultaneously being slaves to their cheap products because we have trained ourselves that the cheapest is the best.

Meanwhile the server pours us a sparkling Pecorino, then a Cococciolo, an indigenous white, while the bounty of the sea below us is being served up on little plates under incandescent lights. People my age, who have lived under this regimen, this “Italianita”, seem reticent to change. “America is the change place.” Still they look to America to send their Nina’s their Pinta’s and their Santa Maria’s loaded up with the bounty of the lands, no?

Back on the beach at midnight, walking slowly, I came across a bottle that had washed up on shore. It was a wine bottle that had been scrubbed soft by the sand over the years. What promise did that bottle have for the people involved with the making of it and the wine inside? What dreams did the people have? Did they work to spend a holiday on this beach in August? Did they labor to buy a little home on the cliff, only to leave it as an entitlement to some thankless niece or son?

Three young boys running towards me, the sea slapping to my side, a dog barking at a passing train and above a fighter jet races by, patrolling the coast. Antonioni would love this.

written and photographed by Alfonso Cevola limited rights reserved On the Wine Trail in Italy

Pasta Porn & Gamberone

This couple this morning were swimming right out in front of where we
enjoyed them. They looked like they were enjoying themselves too

Hey folks it’s been a long Monday. Started out early and by 1:00 PM we had tasted two dozen wines. We’re heading South from Marche through Abruzzo and on, hugging the Adriatic coast. The past few days I have had more pasta than I’ve had in months. But I am in Italy, where you don’t have to ask twice for them to make it the right way. A late run on the beach (more photos from what I found, coming) and back into Ortona to try a little more pasta and a little more seafood, along with some auchtochtono wines, Pecorino, Cococciolo, a Rattafia of Montepulciano and Amarena, finished off with a taste of a grandfather’s solera of vino cotto. And again another post. I’m posting as fast as I can , making the appointments in time, figuring out how to get there and trying to find time to eat, sleep, exercise and blog.

Linguine con vongole (Abruzzo)

Mezze Maniche con Cicala di Mare (Abruzzo)

Maccheroncini di Campofilone - Maccheroni alla Chitarra (Marche)

Sono sopravvissuto? Not yet.

written by Alfonso Cevola limited rights reserved On the Wine Trail in Italy

Simone Capecci, please call me!

From the Pouilly-Fuisse/Piesporter/Pecorino department...

That’s what me and your cousin Lorena Tanzi are both saying. Lorena works at Puerto Baloo in San Benedetto del Tronto, where she served us up another amazing meal of fish and pasta. We were guests of Stefano Illuminati and we drank all his wines up (just so everyone knows, it happens in Italy too, not just in Texas, people run out of wine). But when we ran out of Illuminati on a Saturday night, at this most popular dining spot on the Adriatic, we punted with a Pecorino from Simone Capecci. My colleague James, whom I just spent a week tasting the exemplary 2009 Bordeaux wines, was besides himself. Honestly, I haven’t seen him that excited about white wine since the last time we tasted though a slew of Corton Charlemagne’s.

The Pecorino from San Savino is from 20+ year old vines. Today we drove over to the area to have a look. Simone wasn’t there, but the vines were in full bloom. Up above where we are staying (which is on the coast at San Benedetto del Tronto) the season is a few weeks ahead of the sea level. How do I know this? I am a fan of Tillio (Linden) and right now the fragrant flower is blooming up in Monteprandone (see picture below), while down at sea level it will be June when that happens. Anyway, the area is warm and there is a long growing season. Does the fickle Pecorino like that? Earth to Texas (and Santa Barbara): this is a cool wine to look at for warm climates.

Meanwhile, Simone, call me. Your cousin Lorena opened a bottle of the 2008 Pecorino, which again was a tre bicchieri awardee. Succulent, rich and welcoming, we don’t even want to tell you what we paid for it in a restaurant in Italy, but it was a super deal.

Anyway, after a pictured perfect day and a night before of great seafood, we ask you, Simone, how much would you like to sell your Pecorino in America?

Did I tell you how great the food was here?

Call me, operators are standing by.

written by Alfonso Cevola limited rights reserved On the Wine Trail in Italy

Two-fer Sabato ~ Two Suits, Two Shoes & Two Tailor Saturday

Tailor talk-Vittorio to Sabato: "I'm sending you some more suits"

My tailor back home, Sabato Napolitano, is going to be real happy. I’m bringing back a pair of Italian suits that he will lovingly caress and reshape to fit my new svelte body (that is if I don’t stop eating all this incredible food).

Yesterday as my colleague and I left Emilia Romagna and headed down the A14 (Adriatic route) towards the Marche, our friend Stefano Salvini recommended a seafood restaurant in Pesaro. “Go there for good fish. Really good fish.” Happily it coincided that we would be driving by this sleepy little beach town right at lunch time. So we had a plan.

Sabato to Vittorio: "Make my day!" 

I wanted to drive through the town of Predappio and see where Mussolini grew up. It is a repository of Art Deco buildings, some of which are in serious need of restoration. It’s a bizarre little town, having such an infamous person as Il Duce as one of their homegrown products. I am sitting on a set of pictures for another post for a more pensive time. But it’s Sabato (Saturday) and we have a mission.

Eating light-you get the picture

After a “light” lunch of anchovies and melon and green beans, gamberi, a little crudo, an incredibly delicious pasta with delights from the sea, finishes off with a fritto misto and a bottle of Bianchello di Metauro (starting to sound like an A.J. Liebling lunch?) we strolled the beach. These little Adriatic coastal towns are some of my favorite places in Italy. Maybe because it reminds me a little of my California days ( La Jolla with really good Italian food?). Really the reason is because of the great memories of have of coming “home” to Italy and often heading here. The scene is relaxed, the people are mellow, the food, did I tell you how great the food is here? And the wine, crisp white wines that aren’t fussed with, and you get the picture. But today was about shopping.

We were met by another Stefano, our friend Illuminati, at the hotel in San Benedetto del Tronto. We had an “appointment” in the Marche hills on the way to Offida, to meet another old friend, Vittorio Boccabianca to get “suited up”.

I was fascinated by the rack of “important” suits, clothes for weddings, confirmations, first communions. This gold suit screamed “Elvis”, I don't know how I resisted its siren call. But if I were a musician, or a magician, it would have been going home with me. Senza dubbio.

As it was I went the conservative dark gray suit and midnight blue (trust me, the flash) pinstripe route. These are some mighty fine threads. Up in the hills the little factories supply the expensive boutiques in Rome, Milan and Florence, and if you go to the source you can get a pretty good deal. Let’s just say I did alright.

Eugenio, Graziella and Vittorio in 2001

Vittorio was the best friend of my old pal, Eugenio Spinozzi, who lived in the area. They would hang out when both of them were home from their traveling salesmen jobs. I used to love hanging with them in the 1990’s along with Vittorio’s lady, Graziella. Good times. Bon anima Eugenio.

Vittorio and Graziela have been "going together" for as long as I can remember - they live separately. She takes care of her ailing mother. But he is philosophical about it. “Women, they share our joy, they double our suffering and the triple our spending.” Yeah, Vito, but we can’t live without them, now can we?

Vittorio is one of the great characters in anyone's life. I remember him walking his dog, Dick, on the beach and meeting us for a gelato and a grappa. Now, Vittorio doesn’t travel as much, but we travel to him and he has the hook up for fine threads. He and his colleague, also named Stefano, turned us on to a shoe store nearby. And I bought me a couple of pairs of shoes – Made it Italy – as shoes were meant, by God, to be made.

Before we headed back down the hill, for another meal of fresh, delicious, succulent seafood ( I did tell you how great the food was here, didn’t I?) Vittorio pressed me to buy some ties. I have several over the year that he has supplied me with. And this year the ties are getting skinny again (like me – if I stop eating so much of this really fine food over here). So I bought a couple of ties. Vittorio gave me a third (non c'è due senza tre ties) and showed me this article on how men tie ties and how it relates to Freudian psychology and what kind of man you are by the knot. It looked pretty kooky, but I allowed myself this short epistemological detour, on the wine trail in Italy.


Now where was that restaurant? I need me some Italian wine. After all, it is the weekend…

written by Alfonso Cevola limited rights reserved On the Wine Trail in Italy

wine blog +  Italian wine blog + Italy W

Artusi, Taglierini & Cheese Cake Friday

Barely on Italian soil for 12 hours and I’ve been in a vineyard, found ancient Roman ruins, eaten fabulous pasta, been schooled on the cookbook of Pellegrino Artusi and witnessed a bathing suit competition in the rain. Man this country sure does get busy! And this is just the first day.

From Rome to Forli there is a little highway that is beautiful and worth finding. It isn’t an autostrada; it is a trip back into an Italy I don’t see often. The destination, Bertinoro, near Forli, was a winery that I am interested in, Campodelsole. Fresh, simple Sangiovese is what I was in search of. I found it.

Along the way, we walked a vineyard that was being replanted, via GPS and a Lamborghini tractor. I really need to post all about that another time. I have been up too long and need to get some sleep. But I just wanted to drop a few photos in along with these short notes.

It was wet today, so there were muddy boots galore. Real people working in and with the earth, as it should be. I know some folks like to get all mystical and use fancy terms, but there ain’t nothing like getting into the fields and getting after it.

Lagniappe, ancient Roman ruins. Just sitting there, not quite blending in with the fields. Wealth of culture beyond time.

After a day of work, on the wine trail in Italy, we were hosted by Susy Patrito Silva, the director of the Casa Artusi , a museum, school and restaurant devoted to the work of Pellegrino Artusi. I was given an English Translation of his book, “Science in the Kitchen and the Art of Eating,”, with a forward by Michele Scicolone. Susy had a great grandfather who was born in Colorado (like my mom) and family who were in the shoe business in California (like mine). As well, she hails from Ivrea, between Torino and Aosta, where some of my relatives live as well. Small world.

A bowl of taglierini with a ragu that was indescribably delicious. Brought tears to my eyes, so gorgeous it was. And with a local Sangiovese, it was the perfect food to arrive at once we finally got here.

For dessert? Well, I am still on a diet, but my eyes feasted on a local beauty pageant. Imagine a swimming suit competition under a stormy spring night. Someone left the cheesecake out in the rain.

"Signor polpettone venite avanti, non vi peritate...lo so bene che siete modesto e umile…”

And this is just day one. I am a lucky, lucky guy. And very, very tired. Buon Weekend, y’all!

written by Alfonso Cevola limited rights reserved On the Wine Trail in Italy

“Find a job you love and you’ll never work another day in your life.”

Wednesday I hung up my suit jacket in my office and went to make a copy. When I came back I saw this study in gray, my new office. Outside it was sunny and bright, and I would soon be out among them. But I had an early morning meeting, one I wasn’t really looking forward to.

For several weeks a gentleman had been trying to get an appointment with me to show me his Italian wines. Finally, I relented.

I read all the time about how if only the consumer sitting in front of the computer screen had access to all the wines the wholesalers didn’t have time or interest in, how much better the world would be for them. I really don’t buy into that line of reasoning. There are usually reasons why some wines will never ( and should never) make it to the market. I, for one, would not purposely restrict the flow of products, but the economics of scale and just the inability for every desired product to make it in the New World is just a pipe dream, at best.

So it was without relish that I and my colleague explained to this gentleman that he would lose all his retirement savings and spend what time he had left in life pursuing a dream that just will never be realized. Not because a wholesaler doesn’t care enough to sell it. Because the market can’t bear the weight of anymore products in an already saturated market. Somewhat of a depressing start to the day. That and the new little gray cubicle I call my office. I am sure someone planned it that way to keep me on the streets. And I am fine with that. So fine.

Fortunately, I had a luncheon appointment with Frédéric Panaïotis, the Chef de Caves for Champagne Ruinart, and Charlotte Duntze, the US Brand Manager for Ruinart and several of my younger colleagues. Champagne for lunch might salvage the day. We can hope.

The restaurant we met at was Stephan Pyles. Stephan was there and came over to chat. We had just spent a day or so together out in Buffalo Gap, and the experience was one of those joyous ones. So we relived a little of that before we got into trying the two Champagnes, the Blanc de Blancs and the Rosé.

But the back story, the one I didn’t tell on a recent post at The Blend, was the story of Bertrand Mure. Bertrand passed away a year ago at the age of 95. He was Frédéric’s mentor of sorts. Frédéric is his emotional heir. Bertrand lived a life few of us can imagine. His life should be a book, a movie. He lived large. Before WWII he lived in Southern California, teaching golf and dating a string of famous Hollywood starlets. That alone, living in the Golden age of American cinema, would be enough for me. But after the war he found himself back in Champagne helping a relative bring back Ruinart from devastation. The backstocks were gone, the vineyards were neglected. The world was in no mood for Champagne. They needed bread and water. But slowly, over two decades, he restored Ruinart, one of the oldest houses in Champagne. He created Dom Ruinart, one of the Grande Marques of Champagne. Then he sold Ruinart and stayed to work on for Moet Hennessey. As one of the directors, it was his decision to call Domaine Chandon "sparkling wine", not Champagne. He was a founder of Vinexpo. And God knows what else. I feel a book in this man’s life. I would love to write about it. What a life. What a story!

Frédéric, while still youthful, has the old soul inside him. I know that sounds cliché. But I sense his understanding of the position he holds for a company that is approaching their 300th year of making wine. He quoted an old Chinese proverb, “Find a job you love and you’ll never work another day in your life.”

At the end of the lunch, my grey suit was lighter, and my outlook much brighter from the stories, the bubbles and the potential to find one more story on the wine trail, this time in little old Dallas, Texas. Can you tell how much I love my job?

written by Alfonso Cevola limited rights reserved On the Wine Trail in Italy

Addio, Amico

These are such difficult words to type. Not far from home, a neighbor and a friend has lost his battle with cancer. He was a food and wine lover; he had a new home and a beautiful bride. And a whole slew of crazy wonderful pusses. But after two years of daily battle he said goodbye and left us. He was only 55.

I got to know Bill Kennedy from Slow Food and his blog, Piled high in Tejas, and we lived close by each other in Lake Highlands. Whenever I would go to his house to visit, I had to drive by the nursing home where my wife lived the last 35 days of her life. I know pain and I know loss. We feel so much for his wife Janine and his and her family. There are no words anyone can say to assuage the pain and the loss.

From the Hymn of Empedocles

Is it so small a thing
To have enjoy'd the sun,
To have lived light in the spring,
To have loved, to have thought, to have done;
To have advanced true friends, and beat down baffling foes;

That we must feign a bliss
Of doubtful future date,
And while we dream on this
Lose all our present state,
And relegate to worlds yet distant our repose?

Not much, I know, you prize
What pleasures may be had,
Who look on life with eyes
Estranged, like mine, and sad:
And yet the village churl feels the truth more than you;

Who 's loth to leave this life
Which to him little yields:
His hard-task'd sunburnt wife,
His often-labour'd fields;
The boors with whom he talk'd, the country spots he knew.

But thou, because thou hear'st
Men scoff at Heaven and Fate;
Because the gods thou fear'st
Fail to make blest thy state,
Tremblest, and wilt not dare to trust the joys there are.

I say, Fear not! life still
Leaves human effort scope.
But, since life teems with ill,
Nurse no extravagant hope.
Because thou must not dream, thou need'st not then despair.

Matthew Arnold

by Alfonso Cevola limited rights reserved On the Wine Trail in Italy

Non C'è Due Senza Tricolore

That's kinda how the whole week has been - a blur

The wine gods must really love pulling the strings. They really had me going this week. After a crazy-busy week, which finished with a baker’s dozen tasting of Sangiovese’s from Tuscany, I found myself in the far corner of my fair city, during rush hour, with an approaching storm. And a group of hungry wine guys waiting for me, on the other side of town, to join them for a “Boys night out with Barolo.”

Ever the prankster, I brought along a Barbaresco, just because I thought it would be interesting to see how La Grande Dame of nebbiolo faired with the burly boys of Bussia, Serralunga and Cannubi. There were no really big names there, and a few I had not heard of. One of the gents in our gang of 5, the Silverbacks we are, is moving to Houston. So while he will be consoled with the foods of Catalan, Nino’s, Vincent’s, Tony’s, Da Marco, Giacomo’s and any number of other excellent spots with which to assuage the pain of separation from his man-tribe, we will just have to take the feast to Houston from time to time. Happy Trails, Dave!

It was a tricolore spectacled night

Hank, the itchy-footed one on our group, asked me if I was going to blog this tasting. “Alfonso, you write a wine blog, but you seldom write about wine.” He didn’t mean it as a criticism, but it got me to thinking. I should once in a while talk about wine, post the obligatory TN’s (with or without scores) and join in the merriment of talking about something that sounds so ridiculous when reading about them. I probably will leave the tasting note to folks who are supremely more qualified to do so, folks like Anthony Galloni, James Suckling, Tim Atkins, Jancis Robinson and Karen MacNeil. But not before I at least lay down the list of wines we tasted. Then I will get on with the post.

We set them up in three flights of three:
2005 Barolo “Bricco Rosso” Cascina Bruni
2004 Barolo “Patres” Cantine San Silvestro
2004 Barolo “Presenda” Marziano Abbona

2003 Barolo Pere Alessandro
2003 Barolo “Tradizione” Dezzani
2003 Barbaresco “Bric Mentina” La Ca' Növa

2000 Barolo “Presenda” Marziano Abbona
1996 Barolo Marchesi Di Barolo
1995 Barolo “Cannubi” Marchesi Di Barolo

No Gaja, no Giacosa, no Giacomo Conterno; sorry trophy hunters. Just wines that are found in local wine stores.

Non c'è due senza tre (X tre)

In the first flight the standout for me was the Marziano Abbona Barolo "Presenda" 2004; a bit modern in their use of wood, but nice fruit and the oak component didn’t put me off. It went really well with the food, even the salad. The San Silvestro "Patres"2004, I imagined was a wine that was brought in directly by a retailer. Large winery (400+K bottles produced) but the wine was not over oaked, it was a good wine for the mix. The Barolo "Bricco Rosso" from Cascina Bruni 2005 seemed a little tired. Maybe it'd had a busy week, too.

The flight of 2003’s were, for me the most interesting in that I had no knowledge of the two Barolo wines and the Barbaresco (an old favorite) was thrown into the mix to see how 2003 was fairing. I recently had a talk with Aldo Vacca of Produttori del Barbaresco and we spent a little time talking about 2003 in the Langhe. The windup is, these wines are showing very well in this moment. And there are some good deals out there. The Dezzani was a surprise, because I usually see the Dezzani label in wines that are in discount stores, hence the super low entry-level style. But this one, called “Tradizione” was very pleasant. The other one, the Pere Alessandro, I had never seen. Again, I imagined this was a wine that was brought in directly by a retailer. It reminded me of the wines I had run across recently in Italy .

The Barbaresco “Bric Mentina” La Ca' Növa was probably my favorite wine of the night. It just sings the song I like to hear. It is the kind of wine I lust after.

The last flight, older wines, presented a conundrum. I really thought the middle wine the 1996 Barolo Marchesi Di Barolo had issues in the nose. Fungus. One in our party didn’t detect it though. He finished the bottle; actually he finished all of the bottles. But that’s another story.

The 2000 Barolo “Presenda” Marziano Abbona was beautiful. Resembling the 2004 in style, but just a little perkier from the vintage and a little more relaxed from being a little older. I could drink that wine again. And I know some folks will cringe that I do like it, because it does embrace modernity. Oak, fruit. Too bad. I can’t wait to try their Barbaresco “Faset”. Great memories of that area.

The 1995 Barolo “Cannubi” Marchesi Di Barolo stumped me. I was expecting more. More or less. It was limping a little, not out of the race, but one that really didn’t have its heart in it. But a once pretty stallion, still had a nice gait, even with its affliction.

Friends, Romans, countrymen, lend me your ears

The pasta dish, orecchiette with a ragu (of cinghiale from Sausage Paul), was perfect. I know Dave worried about the gristle and told us he lied awake in bed in the early hours of the morning hoping he cleaned them all out. Yes Dave, you did. It was a "2 plate of pasta" night. Hey, why don’t you just stay in Dallas and open up a restaurant in the West Village. Or better just serve meals from your home like they do in Emilia Romagna? Please, wontcha, huh?

The nice thing about this, is while I couldn’t have all my online friends there, I do have a group of guys that I can get together with and talk about things in more than 140 characters. And drink wine and eat food. And sometimes it’s good to get out of the virtual cocoon and get a taste of the real thing. Thanks, amigos great night.

And finishing this week with a little sad news. One of the great gents of the Langhe, Alfredo Currado, passed away. I heard about it from Champagne Ed. I love the Vietti wines; they started the huge debate about tradition vs. modernity. The kids are now grown up, the flames has been passed to them. But I will always remember those piercing eyes, that shock of hair and the mind that was always tinkering, up on the hill in Castiglione Falletto. Bon anima, amico, you will be missed.

The two AC's: Alfredo Currado and Alfonso Cevola in Castiglione Falletto circa 1984

written and photographed by Alfonso Cevola limited rights reserved On the Wine Trail in Italy