Wine lovers on wine and the vinous life.
I first met Eric in Napa Valley, California. Since then,
we’ve traveled, supped and opened a bottle or two in New York City, Austin, Texas
and Sicily. Eric has the distinction of being one of the most influential wine critics
today, a position he doesn’t take lightly (nor would he probably admit to it).
Nonetheless, it is what it is. He’s riding that tiger. Let’s jump on board with
him and take a spin, shall we?
What wines do you have standing up right
now?
Most of the time, what I’m planning to drink is a
function of what I’m planning to write about. I will keep that private other
than to say I’ve just enjoyed some excellent bottles for my Wine School unit on
dark rosés.
What’s the last great wine you drank?
I prefer to think of “greatness” in terms of context,
expectations and fulfillment rather than on some universal scale in which the
great wines are profound examples of historic terroirs or estates. With that in
mind I would say a Château de Béru Chablis Montserre 2018 was a great wine. I
love Chablis, though I’m not a particularly a fan of the 2018 vintage.
Nonetheless, this wine was beautiful, intense in the way of the vintage yet
full of characteristic Chablis minerality rather than fruitiness, pure and
unmediated. I loved it.
Are there any classic wines that you only
recently had for the first time?
I can’t think of any sorts of wine, though I can think
of plenty of legendary bottles that I’ve never had, and probably never will.
Cheval Blanc 1947, for one.