Italy’s first Master of Wine, Gabriele Gorelli, came to Texas to preview the 2021 Brunello and lay out the aspects of the vintage and cover the territory. There was a whole bunch of data and new stuff for this old brain, but fortunately there were downloads and takeaways in which to delve in deeper.
In the early days of this delving business, I had to dig deep for info and data and have amassed a now relatively obsolete cache of information about Brunello in its early days. Much of that info has evolved and laws have been updated. As well, the economy of the area has benefitted from an uptick in development and investment from wealthy patrons and companies. To say this has all been a boon will be a bit disingenuous, for when progress starts it march a few innocent bystanders can get trampled in the process. The old rustic Italy, specifically Tuscany, and notably, Montalcino, are now brighter and shinier and much more precious in a way they weren’t 40 or 50 years ago. Then it was a more naïve earthbound reverence for the land and the creatures. Now there is a much more elevated economic (e.g., financial) aspect. Funny how in what was one of the most socialistic (read: Communist) regions how capitalism has taken hold and flourished. And yes, that is my bias speaking here in an opinionated manner. But it is also observations over two generations.
2021 was a time when the world was still a bit punch-drunk in the face from Covid 19. Millions had died and while the vaccinations were out, the world just hadn’t gotten around to the normalcy we had gotten used to prior to 2019. That’s not so say we didn’t have turmoil, for in America we certainly did, culturally and politically. Still, people then liked to drink wine. And Brunello was a tasty and sometimes more economical alternative to classified growth Bordeaux and Napa Valley Cabernet. And the critics loved it, bestowing so many 90+ ratings to wines all across Montalcino. It was a heady time for the area. I observed farmers wearing gold in 2019 (rings, watches, jewelry) than they were in 1989 (none). Business was booming.
2021 was what one critic called “radiant.” And if we ever needed anything then and now, it is radiance. The consorzio noted that 2021 was “fragrant, defined and vertical,” which signaled tension and lift rather than weight.
Mr. Gorelli took us through ten wines. He timed it exactly right. He didn’t linger over any of the wines, and he didn’t clip through them too rapidly. He showed respect for the wines and for our time. In other words, he got right to the point. There is a reason this young man teaches a master class on Brunello. He has mastered the master class.
The ten wines (from my notes)- 2021 Brunello di Montalcino:
Col d’Orcia – Lovely, fragrant flowery nose. Slightly green tannins. Peachy character. Nice body. Tannic.
Pinino – Closed in nose. Dusty. Mineral-ey. Open flavors, good fruit. Salty. More of a “classic” style?
Il Palazzone Vigna due Porte – Buttery (marigolds). Light, tannic, good fruit. Very nice – drinking well now, though a bit tannic.
Barbi Vigna della Fiore – Velvety – slight notes of lavender. Tight and tannic( to say the least).
Poggio di Sotto – Lovely aroma. Delicious! Fresh. Slightly tannic, cola, chinotto. Well-balanced. My fave so far ( Confession: I swallowed some of this.)
Capanna – Closed in nose. Dusty. Good sweet fruit. Tannic, Slight orange peel note.
Canalicchio di Sopra – Slightly salty – sweet fruit. Some slight pruniness. Open flavors. Tender tannins ( long length, too). Delicious, too. (If Poggio di Sotto were a 10, this would be a 9). Good weight – I liked this, probably my second favorite.
Salicutti – herbal nose ( balsamic). Salted butter, green tannins, closed in.
Banfi Poggio alle Mura – Oak – easy entry, open, slightly salty. Tannic. Good fruit (Orange peel).
Uccelliera -Flowery nose – soft. Sweet fruits(Peachy?) – tannic.
What I am looking forward to opening in the future will be my 2011’s. I still have a few Brunello wines from the 90’s (‘95 and ’97) a few from the “aughts,” and rounding out with some from the “teens.” The youngest I have is 2018. So, with regards to whatever Brunello I have collected, I think I’m set. A friend just brought me a bottle of Biondi-Santi 2020 Rosso di Montalcino, so that should do me for a while.
All this to say, the presentation relit a fire inside me for Brunello. I’ve combed through the region probably10 times or so on the last 40 years. I love the area, the wine, the people, the food. It’s a lot like where I grew up as a young boy, so it’s very familiar and comfortable. And I find that I often reach for Sangiovese when I want to drink a red wine. And Montalcino has indeed taken Sangiovese to great and lofty heights in my lifetime. We’ll see where it goes in Gorelli’s lifetime. Or rather, he’ll see. I’ll be on to other things by then. But a great salutation of gratitude for Italy and Benvenuto Brunello for bringing the young master (and the mountain) to Dallas.
More downloadable info here: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/5q7c954teqbm0agphc2vx/BB-TEXAS-2026-Brunello-2021-Decoding-the-vintage-DALLAS.pdf?rlkey=ehxbyfgc9s6ema73q53ixi5pe&dl=0
