People, What Do They Know?

The young waiter, newly arrived to America from Italy, had a quandary. Guests ordered a bottle of Sassicaia. And then another one. Problem was that the restaurant only had that one bottle. He went to the chef/owner, his boss and sponsor. “What do I do, Chef? We only have one bottle of Sassicaia and the table wants another one?”

The chef took off his apron and proceeded to go to the bar with the server. Behind the cover of the counter, he opened a different bottle of another Super Tuscan, not a Sassicaia, and poured it into the empty bottle of Sassicaia. He then put a cork in it. “Take this to the table and tell them you opened it and decanted it to make sure it was not corked,” he told his waiter. “People, what do they know?”

The Wine List as an Act of Hospitality

Recently, while listening to a podcast about a local chef whose restaurant holds one Michelin star, I went online to look at the menu. Along with that, I took a peek at the wine list.

The chef, who said on the podcast that less is more, gave me a one-page menu. The wine list was a tome. Let’s dig in and see how the wine list—at 56 pages—at first blush and seemingly at odds with the food menu, corresponds to the spirit of the restaurant at large and the overarching theme of hospitality.

What’s going on here?

“To Serve Man”

I’m in my local Whole Foods. Self-checkout. I have about $60 worth of groceries and on the WF app it says $10 off your next $50 grocery order with code “APP10.” The self-checkout monitor has his eyes glued to the screen of his phone and I call him over for help. He comes over reluctantly. “I can’t help you.” It’s not like he tried anything. “I’ll get my manager.” OK.

She comes over. “This looks like for a delivery order,” she says, not really looking at my screen. I reply, “It doesn’t say that. It says $10 off your next $50 grocery order. This looks like a grocery order to me.” She flips a few switches, can’t find it, and finally just gives me a credit on the $9.67 item in my bag. Not $10, but close enough. That’s service in 2026.

The Meaning of Hospitality - Revisited

Ed. note: This was written 15 years ago, but there are indications that in 2026 we have gotten away from the true meaning of hospitality when it comes to dining out. Not everywhere, but with the change of generations, there is a learning curve that must be negotiated. I will write more about this in the coming weeks, but for now, this archival presentation is a reminder that every day, in the restaurant business, the same challenges exist, and every day they must be faced head-on. The client is the top priority. Full stop.

Tonight. My last night. Two weeks away from home. France. Italy. Every day, somewhere to be. Wine to be tasted. Ten-hour days. Driving. Weak eyes. Sore feet. And then finally the last hotel. Near the airport. So close.

One more meal. Near the hotel. 50 feet away. Why not? After a wonderful day in Barolo, with Anna and Emanuela and nine wonderful wines going back to 1990. Dolcetto. Cortese. Barbera. Nebbiolo. Moscato. Great chef. Amazing lunch. Wonderful company.

And then the drive to the last hotel room. And the last meal.

Stick the Landing — A Pizza Joint Parable

In my dotage, I want to be gentle and understanding. This is a pivotal moment for the restaurant industry, as it is for the wine trade. It is nearly impossible for an independent family starting a food-serving business to survive past a few years. The costs are high, and the target is always moving, higher. Access to goods can be spotty. Aside from the seasonality of things, it can be a crapshoot. And then organizing and retaining a workforce is daunting. All said, this is not a business one gets into unless one is driven or just downright crazy. Hence began my journey the other day.