they even have designer eggs. They just don’t sully up their eggs (or their other dishes) with an egg every time they feel the need. This is so not "over the top" anymore. It’s just over.
4) The Tower – At first the tower was the sign of haute cuisine. It was so very Alto-Borghese. Now that restaurants down the food chain are towering up everything from their bacon-and-cheeseburgers to their sashimi-life-boats-in-a-tower, it seems we all have to deal with the ultimate homage to the vertiginously challenged. This is no longer cute nor is it found in serious Italian kitchens, both of the Alto and the Basso variety.
muu-muu in the 1960’s. For about 10 minutes.
And last but not least…
10) The “Artistic” Plate – More chefs and cooks who didn’t get enough creative time in their Montessori classes? More likely they never saw the inside of a Montessori class, or this all could have been avoided. But here we are once again being subjected to some food preparer who aspires to produce beautiful things. Most of what I have seen in America looks like the discards of an Art 101 class. Been there, done that, know what I’m talking about. We want artichokes, not Arcimbaldo, for Heaven’s sake. But still, chefs must play and we must pay. Not so much anymore in Italy. America, that’s where the large playgrounds are still going strong.
Italy isn’t the only place where someone will smile at you and tell you to have a nice day when what they are really saying is, “kiss off.” Only in America it costs a little more and it still seems to be an aspiration to behold these plated treasures. In Italy, there are still those experimental plates, but more and more, with the “crisis” in Italy, people are looking for comfort and meaning, not abstract expressionism and attitude.
Oh, and how's your food tasting?
written by Alfonso Cevola limited rights reserved On the Wine Trail in Italy
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